http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...%20bolts&dds=1
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-any-help.html
I think you mean head bolts, not studs.
As far as the mounting bracket, I'm not sure. I have the SDCE kit, and my setup came used with it.
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...%20bolts&dds=1
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-any-help.html
I think you mean head bolts, not studs.
As far as the mounting bracket, I'm not sure. I have the SDCE kit, and my setup came used with it.
nope, i meant head Studs.....i think its APR 234-4601 or 234-4401
Why do you want to do head studs? Guys making much more power than you will are still using bolts.
its just me over building.....i have a bad habit of doing that
and studs hold a better more even torque
^ True, you're right, they are a better fastener torque-wise.
Any application for SBC will work.
I way over-built mine...and used bolts. But whatev, to each his own.
all i know is the "small" items are going to kick my wallets ass! so far, pushing almost 2k for oilpan, pump, pickup, engine bolts, headers. still need lifters, push rods, fuel pumps, injectors, crank hub, dampener, pulleys..... it just seams the parts list gos on for ever! lol
^ Welcome to the world of boosted builds, or really any build for that matter. When you're in the "dream" phase, you're only thinking about the big stuff, the major components. That's where people screw up on budgeting, and a lot of people give up on builds and part it all out for a fraction of what they paid because they can't finish due to financial issues.
It's all the smaller components that you don't really think about that really kill your budget in a big hurry.
<---- I didn't title myself as I did because my build was cheap and under budget.
ya, I basically threw the "budget" out the window, I would rather take longer and build what i want then go cheaper and end up cutting corners....
well not doing enough research before buying has kinda bit me in the ass! looks like i will be with the P1 w/8rib set up for a wile. just going to get a smaller pulley (4" or 3.7"). i just don't have the extra to shell out for the SC upgrade and the 12rib pulleys and new main bracket.
has any one been able to get some pics of a catch can set up? possibly detailed pics? i think i am understanding it now, but am still trying to find a 3 port can.Quote:
Originally Posted by QC97Z
I've not dealt with any of these companies, but these are some links I had laying around.
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/catego...catchcans.html
http://www.saikoumichi.com/
http://www.perrinperformance.com/pro...ank?category=4
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...catch-can.html
Blackbird and I sourced ours through Lashway Motorsports (Erik Bentley). Sorry I didn't get you any pics. I'll rummage through what I have and see if any of them will suffice.
well fuel pump ordered today!
im trying to hold of on buying stuff till i get back and get my block ordered
Attachment 7670
ok after digging through post after post on several boards i came across this. dose this look like it would be a suitable 2 port catch can set up?
:(Quote:
Originally Posted by CALL911
Quote:
Originally Posted by QC97Z
Boosted should be studed....
Blah, bolted's good enough for me til it breaks!
Im running 8rib set up with a 3.55 pulley.... no issues....Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroZGuy
Lol... Im studed, and I keep breaking stuff around it... hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by QC97Z
Attachment 7673
Alright, let me see if I can explain this to the point that it's easily understood. I didn't closely study the one you posted, but it looks more complicated than it has to be. EDIT: It's definitely more complicated than it has to be, and I'm not even sure if that one you posted will work.
I'm 100% sure this would work, I just haven't had the money or the time to buy a can and some check valves to play with it. Any diaphragm-type check valve will work. This is advantageous over the lashway unit because these aren't gravity ball-type valves, so they're guaranteed to work, and the can doesn't have to be mounted perfectly vertical.
The block in the middle is your intake manifold. The top black thing sticking out is a barbed fitting on the intake (vacuum). The circle below it is the PCV valve.
The large circle underneath the "motor" is the catch can, with 2 ports. The thing to the lower right is my crappy paint version of a top view of a procharger and the inlet.
The red lines are obviously hoses, and the 2 little orange lines with black tips are diaphragm-type check valves. The blue arrow indicates the flow orientation of the check valve. The purple arrows indicate airflow and its direction.
The first connection (left port on the can) is the easiest. Just route a hose from that port to the PCV on the motor.
The second connection (right port on the can) will have a Tee fitting. Route one side of the Tee to the inlet side of the turbo/blower, with a check valve in-line, with the flow orientation toward the inlet. You can suck/blow on the valve to make sure the orientation is correct.
The other side of the Tee will go to the vacuum port on the intake manifold (there are several). Place a check valve in-line with the flow orientation towards the intake.
This is how it will work:
Non-Boost condition (vacuum): The vacuum source (the engine in vacuum) will pull crankcase pressure/ventilation from the crankcase through the PCV valve, and will deposit oil mist into the can. The bypass valve on the turbo/blower setup will be open while the motor is in vacuum, thus expelling whatever boost the unit is creating into the atmosphere. The check valve on the inlet side of the turbo will be "sucked" closed by the vacuum of the motor.
Boost condition: The intake manifold (and all lines to it) will become pressurized. The check valve coming from the second port toward the intake will become closed by the pressure. When the bypass valve on the turbo/blower setup is closed during boost, this will create a strong vacuum on the inlet side of the turbo/blower. This vacuum will pull the crankcase pressure/ventilation out and deposit the mist through the can.
This setup will basically alternate vacuum sources, depending on the vacuum/boost condition of the motor.
wow, that is a lot easer then i was making it out to be! my thought process was totally nuking the idea
we are making 21 psi out of a ysi with a 8 rib belt. we are at the top limit of the belts strength. 8.5" lower and a 2.75" upper. you should be fine with a 8 rib setup. go with the head studs. it is more accurate than a bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroZGuy
LOL, see? It's not as tough as you thought. I think the first time around I was explaining the same thing, just didn't do a very good job and just confused you further.Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroZGuy
BTW, as far as check valves are concerned, you can get them all over online. Most of them don't have a psi capacity posted. Don't worry about that. I took a really small check valve off the vacuum lines off my takout motor (my original motor I pulled) and tried to blow out the diaphragm by pressurizing the closed side of the check valve with over 100 psi on my air compressor. No dice (no blowout/destruction/FML feeling). So, just get whatever diaphragm check valves you want, just be sure to get one with big enough barbs on it so you can have decent size hoses on it. That thing will move a LOT of air under boost.
So parts i have,
Supercharger (P1sc)
AFR 210 heads
full valve train minus cam and push rods
Headers on the way?
340lph Fuel Pump
cash for short block, Dec time frame heading home to IL and going to stop by Clayton Racing
cash to send heads/intake to LE
still debating on a LE cam or cam suggested by Clayton
just about have cash for EFI 24x (that will be ordered by Nov)
CXRacing FMIC order when build is closer to being done
i am still debating on using my stock 93intake or getting a LT4 (either real or Airgap)
i just need to hurry up and home so i can start really ordering all my parts and get them all ready. im shooting to have it done and race worthy for the shoot out next year.
^ Did you order your headers already? If not, I can cut you a sweet deal on old headers and Y-pipe. Depending on where you are in IL, I could even try to swing them out to you to save on shipping.
yes, i allready have a set of headers. came across a good deal on a set of like new with y-pipe.
well i placed the first order from jegs today, AFPR, AN fittings and lines for trans, ARP bolts and some new gaskets....car will at least be drivable wile i build the new motor over winter and spring. next things to order will be the EFI 24x and Meth kit (Snow performance). Planing to have it on the rollers by late spring early summer, and diled in at the track by the shootout.
awesomeness! i just picked up a true LT4 intake (#12550631) for cheep!