You went from a stock to a 383 right? How much was just the machine work?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
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You went from a stock to a 383 right? How much was just the machine work?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
Hard to say considering I was starting with a semi-fresh 355 that was JUNK (AP Engineering if anyone remembers them) so the .030 over was already done and I only paid for a finish hone because amazingly the cylinders were good. Here's a breakdown on the work completed on my motor:
Clean, remove cam bearings/freeze plugs -- $98.75
Install cam bearings, freeze plugs, R&R Oil Gallery plugs -- $120
Set Rod/Main bearing clearances -- $133.50
Resurface/Square up block and deck -- $232.50
Complete engine assembly -- $775.16
Install aftermarket Main Caps (Splayed 4 bolt, to include machine work) -- $556.25
Install pistons/con rods -- $59.63
Balancing -- 333.75
Flow test heads -- 44.50
Finish hone cylinders -- 148.36
O-Ring engine block deck -- 296.37 (this was because I plan on SHOVING boost through the motor).
I do believe they freebied me on the block crank clearancing for the 383 though.
Add that up if you want. It's well over $2500. Yes, some of it is much pricier than your average shop, but the shop that built my motor is good.....ask Call911, they did his motor too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5POINT7
we discussed that alot, but alot of people dont like the parts I used....
IE FOrged Eagle Crank....
Nothing wrong with that. Eagle is decent stuff. It's what's in my vette (rods at least).Quote:
Originally Posted by popo8
The way I see it is I basically gave a blank check (metaphorically speaking) for my other boss to get what I needed. He did some research and ordered what I needed, and I trust him.....
He built a twin turbo small block (400ci) twin turbo vette in the 2,000 hp range bimself....
The only issue with your lower end cranks (Eagle, Scat, Compstar, ect) is that they will typically need more balancing than your higher end stuff, which can get EXPENSIVE given how expensive mallory is. In terms of strength you probably don't give up much if any, it's just a matter of overall quality of the part.
Agreed.. my future build will be callies dragonslayer crank, oliver billet rods, and diamond pistons.. shouldn't have to touch a damn thing after that...
but for now i have a forged eagle crank, manley hbeams, SRP forged pistons.
i too have a eagle forged crank, and h beams an srp pistons and its a boost motor. nothin wrong with eagle goodies.
I love the new build.... and knowing it is right, means everything.....
I thought about the dragon slayer,,, but GD they are expensive...
After looking at the prices of all the stuff that has been recommend I could afford the lunati block that fastbird suggested. But it would seriously be disadvantaged by the heads. being ported stockers... Unless AI or LE would be worth me keeping the ported stockers until I can afford some better heads.
Also I was searching ebay just to get an idea of some prices too. Found a 383 lt1, sledgehammer, lunati billet rods, custom diamond pistons (made to my choice), callies splayed billet main caps. all assembled and internally balanced for $4995. About a grand over what I wanted to spend on a shortblock.
So I'm not sure what to do...