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I pulled the rails and primed the pump. No leaks with the new injectors .. primes up to 40 psi. It just doesn't seem to be getting strong ignition. Raw gas smell at the exhaust pipe if in keep it running with the throttle open.
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Pulled the valve covers and the valvetrian seems fine too
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@jaysz2893 any update on this?
None yet. I'm in Detroit all week. I'll be able to mess with it this weekend. I got a new coil and ICM as well as a IAC and MAP pigtail to fix the broken crap. I should do that anyway. I do have a line on a complete ls1 engine / harness/ PCM in a 4th gen k member for cheap......
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UPDATE!
New ICM and Coil and the car fires over... now i have low TPS voltage (and running rough) I tried 3 TPS sensors i had laying around and i have 0.4 closed and I cant adjust it anywhere. BBK TB. Even if i take it off and turn the TPS by hand I never get over 1 volt. I am stumped
UPDATE AGAIN
I followed the procedure and I get 4.96 when probing the blue wire to the battery. I think the harness could be messed up I tired 2 PCM and same thing.
Are you clearing DTC 22? It's going to stay in the ECM as a stored code until you clear it, or drive the car a significant number of "drive cycles" without the problem recurring, and it auto-clears.
In a 1993, DTC 22 (signal voltage low) sets when the TPS signal voltage is less than ~0.23 volts. 0.40 volts should not set a code. And of course there is no adjustment, because the ECM reads the voltage at key on, and as long as the voltage is between 0.30- 0.90 volts, sets the key on voltage as 0% throttle position.
You should have ~5.0 volts between the Black ground wire and the Gray 5 volt reference wire. Blue wire is the variable signal wire. Black wire goes to pin B on the connector, Blue wire goes to pin C on the connector, Gray wire goes to pin A. Signal voltage is read between the Blue wire and the Black wire.
ok, i found the ground was messed up and fixed it. i have the right voltage everywhere now. Cleared the DTC. now it fires over but wont stay running. The IAC is still at 160. I tried resetting it a bunch of times now. It is relatively new. I get a big sucking noise at the air intake and when i do give it gas to run, i hear a weird whirring noise....
What air box are you using, the one from SLP that came with the hood?
Test IAC electronics:
From Shoebox
http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg
Passages could be plugged. I remember one we sorted out where the coolant in the bottom plate had leaked into the air passage.