8 different codes all of a sudden.

I have had three different people tell me they have received these codes using an innova scan tool (what I used) and it turned out there was only 1 or 2 actual codes. My screen is busted, it could be 1.69 amps, or 1690 mA.

i have a new alt on order, but will have it tested before I buy it.

Had the alternator tested, it is shot. I ordered a rebuilt one with a lifetime warranty as I will never sell this car. It will be here tomorrow. I don't know if this will solve all my issues, but at least it will solve some.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Revolutions

16.9mA/.0169A would not be considered a "draw" anything under 500mA is good/normal/common it would take about 90 days to use up the reserve capacity of a typical group 75 battery.
The current flow is for the excitation of the alternator and would not be present on a 1 wire/self exciting alternator.

The most likely cause for your problem is a poor ground somewhere in the PCM circuit. Check all of your grounds and clean your PCM connectors with contact cleaner.

The warm start condition would be ignition related not fuel. When an engine is warm the AFR is leaner and a lean mixture is more resistant to current flow so it works
the ignition system harder. What part of the ignition is the culprit is hard to say and the only way to know for sure is to connect an ignition analyzer/scope and look at
the waveform. The problem with that is there are few people that know how to read them and fewer shops that have them. My prime suspect would be the ICM though
provided the secondary side of the ignition system (plugs/wires) is in good working order. A weak coil will generally cause problems in the upper RPM from lack of
dwell time but not start up.

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Well, the alternator did not solve anything (that I am aware of). I still have codes present (and no scanner to scan them)
It still is reading 170 mA draw, I got another scanner and checked it.

How ow is it possible to drain a battery over night with only a 170 amp draw? is there something that is staying on after the car is shut off, but then no longer stays on when I disconnect the battery to test the draw?

I will check/clean grounds again, and try to get a different scanner. I guess when I get more money I will get one of computers set up to scan.

any other ideas would be appreciated.

Well, found the draw for the battery. I went out to my car to check to see if there was a voltage drop, and before I turned my light on, I noticed the light on the center consol was on. I had checked it before and it was off. I really need to push down on it to turn it off.

it makes me wonder if my alternator was actually bad, or if the kid at the auto parts store just wanted me to buy anew alt. well, that's one issue resolved.

Down to one code, looks like the batch of codes was either bogus, or the new alt. solved a whole slew of codes.

only code left is DTC 43, knock sensor circuit. Pulling 7 degrees of timing. I also got some screen shots of the scan, because I could.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psiw8izbzz.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pshurq7gkx.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psl2zm6dex.jpg

so I know this could be a couple things, the knock sensor itself, the wiring, but I am pretty sure my header is hitting the transmission (I think) brave, I can feel it and hear it vibrating when driving at most rpms. Now, I know I need to fix this, but would this cause the 43 code as well.

@Revolutions, you may be onto something with the ICM as well. Code 43 could be ICM as well. Will test soon.

Even if no one is offering resolutions, I feel it is good the get things on paper to look back at what I've done, or if it can help someone in a search. Not saying no body is helping, just saying sometimes it's good to ramble. Lol

The 7° of retard being shown for knock is a fail safe as in it is the maximum retard value based on current RPM and MAP.
A faulty/failing ICM will not set code 43
Have you gone through the diagnostic chart for the knock sensor.
Attachment 32347

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Revolutions

The 7° of retard being shown for knock is a fail safe as in it is the maximum retard value based on current RPM and MAP.
A faulty/failing ICM will not set code 43
Have you gone through the diagnostic chart for the knock sensor.
Attachment 32347

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Oh, will check it, I haven't yet. I have a bulging disc that is killing me right now.

the MODIS I used, and when I looked up the code said Possible "ECM module" as well.

Yes possible problems are ECM, Knock sensor, Knock sensor module or knock sensor wiring/connector.
Above you said ICM which is not an option.

I did, yeah lack of sleep does funny things.