The Resurrection: 94 Firebird Formula

I just found my copy of the SAE paper, in the 25-year pile of accumulated tech info in my make-shift office. I was looking for it, and it wasn't in the obvious place, but I had referenced it in the past year. I needed it to highlight the features of the Corvette self-bleeding/pressurized reservoir system, vs. F-Body bleeder screws.

The study of the coolant flow is fairly detailed - with crude graphs showing vertical temperature profiles of the individual cylinder bore inboard and outboard temperatures and, and cylinder-to-cylinder temperature gradients for both the head and the block, from front to back of the engine. There is also a chart showing the split of the total coolant flow between the engine right hand bank, left hand bank, and heater loop.

To accumulate that data, they had to be running the pump on the engine, and at that point, measuring flow vs. RPM would have been simple. The "open" vs. "closed" t-stat curves are initially confusing. That may just be showing the internal bypass that is designed into the LT1 pump's t'stat housing.

there are so many mechanical engineers here, then there is me, a "chief engineer" who makes things work lol

may look into going down a rabbit hole, electric power steering pump maybe???? would then be able to clean up the passenger side of the motor even more and make rocker adjustments much less time consuming (remove alt etc to get valve cover off)

The volvo PS pumps default to some percentage of flow if you do not have the volvo canbus. Which works fine.

BUT, since you mentioned engineers, heres how you complicate it. Convert your car over to a Maxxecu, and you can run the canbus signal to pump. Which then would let ramp pump up/down based on whatever parameters you wanted. Could be full blast at under 25, and taper off as you get faster. Possibilities are endless.

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Originally Posted by JOATMON

The only thing I never considered about my electric water pump, is the fact that you don't know if it's not running until you're in serious overheat.

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A little late to the party here, but you can wire a dummy light/buzzer/etc when the ewp is no longer getting any or the current voltage. Or any external temp sensor would work if screwing around with relays and such doesn't sound like fun.

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Originally Posted by harner

A little late to the party here, but you can wire a dummy light/buzzer/etc when the ewp is no longer getting any or the current voltage. Or any external temp sensor would work if screwing around with relays and such doesn't sound like fun.

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I like the way you're thinking because that same thought came to my mind. It would be a real simple circuit to wire up to a warning light. I'm a retired industrial electrician and instrument technician.
I normally do keep an eye on the gauges, but this overheat caught me by surprise, it happened fast.
The only time I don't look at the dash is when I'm on a full throttle run, I shift when my big red MSD shift light comes on and keep my eyes focused on the road. The car is brutally fast for my senior reflexes.
Oh, I did think about going back to a mechanical pump. But then I remembered that with the double roller timing chain and sprocket setup, I no longer have a drive gear for a stock mechanical pump.
Nolan

changing a heater core that probably didnt need to be changed.....i broke the bracket for the blend door actuator....shit

oh, now that it pissed me off when i try to give it new parts, im gonna cut the underhood portion of the ac box out with a dremel and chisel to make life easier to do valve adjustments

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no turning back now. dremel/needle nose pliers/a tire lever. ordering a bmr platehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6eae383213.jpg

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Does the evaporator still have the temp sensor/module intact? I know of someone who is looking for a replacement temp sensor/module and can’t find one. Appears they have been discontinued.

Always wanted to delete the box and install a plate. Not to mention going with a manual steering rack, and relocating the alternator.

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Originally Posted by Injuneer

Does the evaporator still have the temp sensor/module intact? I know of someone who is looking for a replacement temp sensor/module and can’t find one. Appears they have been discontinued.

Always wanted to delete the box and install a plate. Not to mention going with a manual steering rack, and relocating the alternator.

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i have a factory modified lt1 bracket that puts the alt down low. already thinking about it lol

the sensor that goes into the coil? its there, ill see if i can get it out

there was a helluva mouse nest in there

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As I understand it, the sensor stabs into the evap fins, and there's some sort of “module” that the sensor wire connects to. I think that module may be on the outside of the box, but on the passenger compartment side. I looked up the removal process in the factory manual, and it wasn’t real clear. Did require removal of the heater core from the passenger compartment side.

Thanks. I'm just trying to help out someone on another site, so no big deal if it's not easy to pull.