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Ain't that the truth! Their product info and catalog listings leave alot to be desired. I know damned good and well they have different depth column caps, but I couldn't find them in the catalog. Seems like years ago the kits CAME WITH several different depths to fit your column perfectly. AND, if my memory serves me well, it seems like the hub USED to be a much higher quality material. We're talking many years ago though, I could be wrong.
Nolan
thats a fact, the grant hub i pulled off my car fred installed 20+ years ago fit tight, and was heavier than the brand new hub osie got for his car 6 months ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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Lots of time in front of the mill on this one... 7.5" Lexan spoiler
It's not complete as still need a shorter center link and panel to cover up the center hole. I opted to make my own instead of buying the Unbalanced Engineering version because I wanted something that was quickly adjustable. Kinda regret it lmao.
Also, I did an oil change and found a little glitter in the bottom of the pan. Cut the oil filter open and there weren't any large chunks as far as I could tell, my guess is the cam bearing is coming apart. I need to get rolling on this 4-bolt 355.
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Spoiler is cool, glitter is not cool. Hope it stays together for you.
Nolan
Here's the finished product. I spray painted it with some Rustoleum hammered black, but it came out looking metallic gray. Weird.
I'm also trying to get my sticker game back to where it used to be.
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Also, I feel like I'm at a crossroads with this car. I know I need to make preparations for the motor and I see 3 paths I could take.
1. Mild 355ci with the lazy Lunati hotcam, slap my current LE1s onto it and call it a day
2. Mild 355ci with the lazy Lunati hotcam, buy LE2s, ported intake, larger TB and dump the old heads
3. Put together the wild 388ci I was going to use in my Roadmaster with the huge Lunati 243/251 cam, LE Trickflow 21s, and single plane for 500ish whp
Option 1 is the lazy route and gets me a tiny bit more power, plus I won't have to short shift anymore. Option 2 is more effort, but I'm guessing it'll net me another 20-30whp and still be reliable.
Option 3 will have me punking C6 Z06s, but there's no way the rear end will survive which means I'll have to budget in a fab 9", and done right means full floater... yikes. I would rather put the money towards a vette. Also, 500whp will probably kill me.
Something to keep in mind, have you been pricing out vettes recently? I bought my C6 Z06 in June of 2020 and got a good deal on it because it was traded in to a dodge dealership. I paid $37K out the door after negotiating and leveraging the fact that I was buying it sight-unseen. Within 3 months of that, I could've sold the car as I bought it for upwards of $45K. I recently saw a same color, one year older and 7K more miles than mine has listed for $48.5K. The corvette market is through the roof right now so I just want you to be aware if you aren't currently.
Yeah, I know the prices exploded in the past couple years due to the pandemic and also all of the braindead drift kids finding out about them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Z28pr0jekt
By vette I mean a very ratty C5 or nice C4, basically anything disposable I can get my hands on for <$10k because I refuse to pay for track insurance. It seems as though the C4 isn't in the same league as the C5, but I am willing to build one because a lot of my current go-fast parts could be carried over (i.e. wheel hub adapters, brakes, wheels/tires, motor, trans). I would need to do a ton of chassis stiffening mods from the very beginning.
i think a c4 is more than capable, drove one today, loved itQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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Fair enough, just checking on what you were looking at. I still see some C5 Z06s over $30K but most still in the mid 20s. I pop on here from time to time just to see what they have: https://buyavette.net/ All their C4s are over your budget though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
As a platform, the C4 is pretty floppy. The targa roof, fiberglass floor and trans tunnel (backbone) mean poor resistance to bending and torsion. They sell x-braces for those cars that basically preload all of the slop out by pulling on the frame welds, but these will fatigue over time and are a bandaid. To do one right means stitch welding the frame and a full cage with plenty of gusseting. I have a hunch that the f-body is a much more rigid chassis, but I have to put up with a live axle and piss poor weight distribution.
Sourcing a C4 will be stupid easy though. There are a bunch of junky L98 cars for as little as $3k, whereas nicer LT1 examples seem to hover between $7-10k. I am not concerned with getting something that is running and complete however as anything I put on the track will ultimately be gutted and have the whole suspension/drivetrain swapped out.
A similar sentiment applies for a C5, although the drivetrain would need to be solid. I would only opt for a stripper FRC in all honesty. I don't think a Z06 is worth the coin considering it has the same crappy brakes, wheel bearings, cooling, etc.