But is it worth it to do that first and check for damaged valves, than to slap it all back together and do a compression test and find out its either good...or, needs to be pulled apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
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But is it worth it to do that first and check for damaged valves, than to slap it all back together and do a compression test and find out its either good...or, needs to be pulled apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
Well, slapping back together to do the compression check is literally 12 bolts for the tensioners, the phasers on the back of the cams, and I could crank the motor over.
I just had a thought. @jaysz2893 back me up on this. Would it be possible the short time the motor was run with the drivers side chain tensioner wonky, that the computer saw issues and using the phasers (the round things on the backs of the cams) retarded the passenger side cams? I know they're continually variable timing adjustable, and that could easily explain why they were retarded.
Well if thats the case...and there is no chance of more damage from doing that... that sounds like the best way to go... to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
It won't hurt anything. If there is damage it's already done, won't hurt it worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by popo8
Sounds like the next step then.
@Fastbird, anything is possible with the setup they use. I would pull the head. I had to do it once on my DSM just to verify the valves.
I fucking HATE VAG and their fucking allen head bolts!!!!! Any time there's one exposed to any elements for any amount of time, they always fucking strip, like the crank lock pin plug just did, and there's ZERO room to get in at it to get an easy out or anything else on it.
I like VAG... giggidy.
Think I figured out one problem. I am under the belief now that when locking the crank in via the pin (that I'm going to get to Monday or Tuesday by supporting the motor and pulling the mount that's in the way) and the cams in the proper locked position (it's one way, you can't do the cams wrong), that the motor is NOT at #1 TDC. I can't back the motor up to TDC at this point, it's running into something, and I think it may be valves. But look at this. The pic below shows the #1 and 2 cylinders portion of the cams. Look at the top cam, Intake cam, 2nd lobe, for cylinder #1 at the right. The intake valves springs are compressed and valves are open. No way that's #1 TDC. But cams are in the proper spot. I think locking in the crank puts the pistons at a neutral none at TDC position.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psc6665433.jpg
When I lined up the timing marks and locked the crank I had the valve covers off too. I noticed it was not TDC either. I think the marks are just arbitrary to keep things simple for installation of the belt, etc. I hope your valves are ok
I'll have a good idea on Tuesday probably. Monday I'm going to support the motor and pull the front right mount so I can forcibly remove the crank pin plug. That way I can properly pin the crank and go from there. By all reasoning, now I see that the left aide was indeed the one in time still, so I know the crank is probably 1/4 turn retarded at this point. Can still hope right?Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysz2893
Goodluck.
Suck. Rain yesterday and today. Ain't nobody got time fo dat! But I'm not laying on wet gravel and yard to do this either. The car is hanging on a single jackstand ready to have the motor supported from underneath and for me to go to town, but this WX just isn't cooperating. Got to wait until Friday now, at the earliest.
It's raining here now.
Attachment 30321Quote:
Originally Posted by SUBARU POWER TIME
LMFAO
I guess I haven't been around these parts in awhile, haha. Sweet pick up at that price. Let me know if you need anything as far as Audi parts go, I'm pretty well connected.
PS: I don't have Facebook any more but I'm pretty sure you still have my email and phone number :cool:
Inside joke:
Attachment 30322
@SUBARU POWER TIME
Pretty much.
Back in the saddle. Time to get this figured out.
First order of business, get the front right motor mount out so we can get the stripped crank lock plug out.
Have to drop the sway bar, not remove. Four 13mm bolts with my impact driver and they were right out.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pseed45194.jpg
Found it interesting how the motor mount has the sway mount integrated with it.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps2776a4fa.jpg
Now, there are TWO spots I could see that needed support. The first was the motor obviously. A piece of wood and a jack under the pan with just a bit of tension was fine. The second spot, which I'm not positive if it was needed, was under the cradle on the right (in the picture you can see the jack). You're removing the long bolt that goes through both the mount AND the front cradle mount, so better safe than sorry.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps98c0ebd2.jpg
18mm sockets on all three bolts and a.....16mm I believe on the mount stud itself, and it's out. I took the LONG bolt that went through the mount and cradle and ran it all the way back in as an extra safety measure, though it's not pictured below.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps04b6fa3d.jpg
Four 8mm allen head bolts later (a LONG allen head socket and short extension and I broke all but the upper rear loose with ease, the upper rear required a short regular sized allen socket and 3" extension to get to due to the cradle interference) and I've got unrestricted access to the bane of this issue.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps89a68b59.jpg
Most of that fresh oil is from removing the rear cam covers. It just dumped down.
So.....after some fiddling and frustrations, thinking that this thing was WAY out of time, I realized I was pre-positioning the lock pin too far in. I backed it out some and the crank swung far enough forward and I was able to work the crank forward with one hand while keeping a slight drag on the counterweight with the lock pin until I felt it free up and start screwing in again. As stated in the manuals, some slight back and forth wiggling of the crank while screwing the lock pin in ensures it goes in ALL the way. Once it's fully in, the crank will not move at all.
As Jesse would say if any of you are Breaking Bad fans....."Yeah B*tch!"
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps139c74dc.jpg
On to the cam tensioners now.
Two times around the world on the engine by hand and all timing locks went right back into place (both sets of cams and the crank lock).
On to the compression test. ALL cylinders between 150 and 165. No bent valves there!
Putting it back together now. Hopefully all is copacetic when I go to start later this weekend.
This is great news man. Sounds like it dodged a bullet. Good luck, and keep us posted
It's going back the rest of the way together now. Plan is to get it finished, test drive, wash, pics, advertise for $7500.
Fingers crossed for u man... keep this updated.
Btw: great write up detail
I was worried there. Started her up and she initially ran smooth, then started running like piss. After a couple minutes of misfiring (flashing CEL) I shut if off. Started it back up a few later, and smooth and purring. Figured it was burning off the oil that got into the cylinders from the valve covers when I removed the plugs, and repressurizing the Direct Injection manifold. Looks like she's good to go. Gotta clear the CEL from all the cranking I did with everything unhooked, and other than the TPMS being bad, she's good to go it looks like.
Man, I just published the craigslist ad, and am really lamenting selling the car. I really do like it, but there's bigger badder things I want.
Great job man!!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...ee9465b670.jpg
Hmmm.......I need to drive it some. I noticed revving it in the driveway that on decel, you can hear a little chain rattle and sometimes it'll burble/misfire at idle unless you blip it again. Wondering if the chains are just a little too slacked. Not enough to do any damage, but could ding profits.
Oh, and the freaking wind today picked up the car cover I was using to lay on to work, and flunk all the undershield screws everywhere. I found ONE. They're like $20 for 8 of them on ebay. Friggin great.
Just drove it. Nope, shouldn't have done that. It drives so freaking nice. WOW.
Thats awesome man.... im following u and the wife on fb. Lol
yeah, she's just ribbing me cause she wants it for herself after sitting in it and checking it out.
Can you break even selling the pacifica, and keeping the AUDI?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
Doubtful. Pacifica is showing its age and we'd be lucky to see 3500 out of it. Plus I'd still be stuck in the corolla. And she'd let the kids ruin the inside of the Audi.
Ohhhh. :(
Registered it today. Tried with no success to just get a 30 day temp tag (to make it easier to sell it). Ended up paying tax and title/registration. But man, this car cleans up so nicely. I REALLY want to keep it. I'm going to drive it for the time being but am going to keep for sale signs on it.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psd894fdd4.jpg
EVERYTHING seems to be working too. I reinitialized the TPMS system and the sensors came back on line. I think the low battery from sitting was screwing with things. I can't find ANYTHING that doesn't work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
Awesome man... enjoy it.
Looks great Sean. Brett and I will have to come down soon, and hang out!
Anytime Jen!
sooooo.... did you sell it yet?
Nope. Haven't been trying too hard. Signs in the windows, a big one on the windshield wherever I go somewhere, and craigslist. People are balking at the price vs mileage, but the market supports it.
Did get a great deal on the nav DVD unit, and will hopefully have it in and running in a few days.