Oh yes, definitelyQuote:
Originally Posted by popo8
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Oh yes, definitelyQuote:
Originally Posted by popo8
Get video!
MEMBER @ LTXtech.com
so much for that.... dtc 16 sets after trying to crank it. no spark since no signal to pcm from opti. opti is new but is toast, and to add insult to injury we replaced it to avoid this problem
I thought you only did the MSD cap/rotor? If the entire Opti is new, is it still MSD?
Hopefully the Accel injectors won't prove to be a problem.
we bought a supposedly entire new delco opti with a new msd cap/rotor kit because the opti that was on it was filled with water. guess its bad, i went over everything that you do to check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Just read thru this entire thread. Can't wait to see this thing running again.
hes dead jim......opti is fubar'd...hopefully a new one soon
I still can't believe they don't sell the opti sensor by itself, it's a conspiracy I tell ya!!!!
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
Wouldnt matter on a spline drive, the shutterwheel is tack welded to the rotor shaft, so you cant get it offQuote:
Originally Posted by ginoz28
Adding more to the conspiracy. :-XQuote:
Originally Posted by TubbyZ28
"Can't" isn't in my vocabulary.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
Lol new opti will be here tomorrow, fingers crossed she fires up
I was thinking the same thing about the sensor inside the opti. That would make things so much cheaper! Hope she fires up for ya after the new opti.
http://youtu.be/ixAzy1S9pUA
It runs!!!!
Runs great! Congrats!
Sounds good :thumbup:
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
alright well after a few days of playing with things, some things are still acting up. first i had a right bank lean o2 code, swapped o2 sensor and cleared that. now i have a issue with the blm's climbing up on both banks to the 190's and the o2 voltages staying low, high 100's-low 200's. also, after swapping the o2 and maf, i suddenly had the car start dropping rpm on its own while the map kpa increased until it threw a high map code. it idled out and then went back into closed loop when everything settled. i also noticed when this happened the maf afgs reading increased value. i checked EVERTYHING to try to fix the blms and the issue, checked for vacuum leaks multiple times, came up with nothing.
if anyone can review my datamaster log, post up and ill email it to you. thanks
HOw did it run in open loop.
MEMBER @ LTXtech.com
ran fine in open loop. i still have some playing to do tomorrow, gotta slot the tps sensor and get the voltage down and get the iac counts up a little higher. also gonna raise the idle rpm, i think 800 may be a little low for all the airflow going on.
what happens if u unplug the o2s?Quote:
Originally Posted by TubbyZ28
MEMBER @ LTXtech.com
same thing that happens every time it goes into open loop and ignores the closed loop sensors, it runs better. i had two people (one of them owns a tuning/dyno shop) suggest putting it in speed density mode, but i dont wanna go that route yet without a wideband.
I would be willing to bet that once you get an exhaust / y pipe on the car it will run fairly good. The O2s are getting a lot of fresh air with open headers. I say there's no reason to run the car in speed density mode IMO.
tb is leaking at the elbow boot, one of the bolts, also one of the pressed in fittings on the side, gotta do the iac mod, slot the tps, figure out how to make this boot stop leaking, do sjm abs delete, throw the exhaust on, piss off the world
Get a good elbow...dont try to patch it up.
MEMBER @ LTXtech.com
We will, but just for todayQuote:
Originally Posted by popo8
ok...cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by TubbyZ28
MEMBER @ LTXtech.com
well, exhaust is on, brakes are bled, wheels are on, just gonna finish hangers and put cai on. car sounds mean as hell. thank you to everyone that helped, suggested this or that, and dealt with my freaking out a few times when shit was just going whacky and i was overthinking things.
Glad its better man....
MEMBER @ LTXtech.com
Glad I could help out!!! Feel free to ask questions whenever!
Glad things are going well for ya!!
took it for a ride. feels good runs good. needs a better exhaust that doesnt hit the damn floor. had to rig a 2.5" pypes x and racepro setup since the 3" setup we bought didnt fit a car with poly motor mounts. otherwise, we will see what happens.
Awesome...any burnouts yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by TubbyZ28
MEMBER @ LTXtech.com
ehh it was a bad video, he wouldnt just hammer it to the floor and let off the brake, he tried feathering it. franks trans shifts too good lol.
idling at 850ish with 2.5" racepro's and a x...just a temporary exhaust
http://youtu.be/Y8uzyWtShF4
It sounds great man!
MEMBER @ LTXtech.com
Lookin around march the car will be going to efx tuning in toms river for a dyno tune. Not to take away from any of the email tunes i got, just wanna make sure its perfect, and to see what it makes
We have been lazy with this car, ran out
Of injector at only 5k rpm on the Dyno, the 2.73 gear is killin the power, and there was a bad knock module in it. At 5200 rpm it made 360 and the curve was goin up up up, so with the 3.42's, svo green tops and a good tune seeing how high it will go
Does it have the factory knock module in it? Or have you switched to an LT4 module?
Bad lt4 knock module, put a stock non lt4 module back in it and its fine.
Researched a little bit, early revision computers have had issues with lt4 modules picking up more false knock. Thats what we have computer wise.
@Ltconvert said the brakes were lacking with the new found power. 20 year old stock brakes will do that. Also, the 2.73 rear was holding the motor back big time unless you were up over 5k rpm. So, we found a 3.42 10 bolt with a truetrac that's in really good shape, new calipers lines and slotted rotors for rear, and some big boy brakes on the front.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/5upusyby.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/3aty3ahe.jpg
Baer GT+ found on amazon for a few hundred bucks off regular price. It should stop now lol
Wow they sure fill that rim...