I'm looking for a minimum of 450-500. It will be mostly just a weekend car. Strip occasionally. Definitely not daily driver but I want it to be fairly reliable.
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I'm looking for a minimum of 450-500. It will be mostly just a weekend car. Strip occasionally. Definitely not daily driver but I want it to be fairly reliable.
Here's one kit that has made many more than 500 HP. It's already balanced and ready to go. Upgrade to ARP rod bolts for even more horsepower. I used this in my first LT1 (400 RWHP) and I flogged it mercilessly for three years and had zero problems. Second LT1 (425 RWHP) My new one not installed yet (hoping for more than 425):drool:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B12111030/
OMG dude. For 450-500 RWHP, jeez, just do a stock cranked forged rod/piston 355 with a P-1SC pullied up. A built 383 and a D-1SC is a solid 600+ RWHP setup. You don't need any of that if your goals are just 450-500. Here's what I'd do to make your goals (and it would be an AWESOME driver car for sure):
355 CID
Stock Crank
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Shelf set of Diamond dished pistons
Stock Ported heads
set SCR to about 9.25:1 via chamber/head gasket thickness based on shelf piston dish
A baby cam in the 218/224 range (think CC304) on about a 114* lsa
Single pump fuel system should suffice on stock lines
60# injectors
P1-SC or D-1SC blower kit, either or, D-1SC you can underdrive a tad and make what the P1 will
Do the ATI twin's since you've got the nose air inlet issues on the T/A
Meth injection as a safety net
Tune the ever living shit out of it
I would guarantee that at 12-14lbs of boost that car set up above would more than likely crack the 500 mark at the wheels and provide a daily driver quality and reliability. Honestly if I had it to do all over again this is a route I probably would have gone. It won't have to rev to the moon, will be awesome under the curve, and be enough to bitch slap a lot of stuff running around still.
he said minimum... he wants about 700rwhp i think. and fire67 has a d1sc kit forsale for a trans am with the ati twins
More is good. lol. 500 is more like the very minimum. around 600-650 would be ideal.
you can make 650 on stock ported heads.
Ok, then that changes things. You'd have to stuff a LOT of air through a 355 to make it there. 383 is obviously a little better here but on stock heads you're still going to "see" a lot of boost. A set of larger runner aftermarket castings would help a lot, but let's not get into the heads part yet because this thread is asking about rotating assemblies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huff035
IF you can afford it, look into the Lunati cranks. I have a sledgehammer crank, and Call911 is running one also and he is less than kind to his car when he drives it. They're stout pieces but you pay for it (they're about $750-800). The rods you do NOT want to skimp on. H-Beams are stronger, but heavier. I-Beams are lighter, but will break easier. Billet are the shiz but will run you $1200+ for Lunati or Oliver billet rods. Eagle makes a good rod, but there's other options. Lunati Pro-Mod's are great, Compstar are basically an Eagle that's been renamed. Never used any scat stuff so no comment. Manley.......good stuff.
Let me ask this though: How much do you anticipate spending, especially since you're essentially starting from scratch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
Stock ported heads are only if money is running low at the end. Which I'm sure it will be getting close. I was looking at cranks after your first post and i can a sledgehammer for $609 from jegs or summit. Haven't really shopped around alot yet. I'm not really sure how much the machine work will cost. I actually have no clue. I'm hoping to keep the short block under $4k. But once again, I don't even have a guess about machine work or assembly.
$4K MIGHT be doable. Remember there's a lot fo machine work involved, bearings, bolts, you're going to want to do a splayed 4 Bolt main setup, ect. I'd say budget $5-6K for the interim low end.
For reference, and I can produce a breakdown sheet if necessary, my short block cost right at $9K but I went all out on it also. You're looking at $2K in parts for JUST the rotating assembly, and if I had to guess at the very least another $1K in parts for bearings, caps, bolts, ect. Figure machining and labor adds up quick too.
Oh also Popo and I were talking and he said he could take it to the machine shop that did his motor and does alot of work for his shop and i might get a little better of a deal.