More spark retard after fixing exhaust leaks and trying race gas.

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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

Lock the timing retard to max of 3 degrees. It should be locked lower for performance anyway. If Solomon still has it at 10 degrees (which is factory) I would find a new tuner. What is it at max, as in in ur logs what's your max spark retard?

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Max is 5,
When I accelerate, even slightly in closed loop, it goes right to 5, and then eventually drops off, even with the 102 octane.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

Lock the timing retard to max of 3 degrees. It should be locked lower for performance anyway. If Solomon still has it at 10 degrees (which is factory) I would find a new tuner. What is it at max, as in in ur logs what's your max spark retard?

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F the knock sensors and ringlands right?

I would continue the quest to find if its false knock, TQ specs on factory knock sensors can effect them, as well as a broken wire changing resistance.
My collectors would leak and set off the KR sensor all the time. One trick to try is to put tape over the LT4 module ear holes on the PCM if that reduces KR you know its not the block sensor.
Misfires can cause KR, a bad wire,bad injector ect. Broken flywheel/flex plates TQ converters can cause it. A bad Opti can cause audible knock at idle, ect ect.
The Point is get the car running tip top before tuning it. Dont say eff the knock sensors until you KNOW its false knock.

I will do a once over again, and will try the KM trick, I didn't know it audibly read it from there. Opti is brand new delco, injectors are brand new too. Thanks for the help, guys.

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Originally Posted by 94ndta

Max is 5,
When I accelerate, even slightly in closed loop, it goes right to 5, and then eventually drops off, even with the 102 octane.

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Then it's probably false, but I don't know what I'm talking about. If it's already locked you could have a flat out tap that's freaking the sensor out.

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Originally Posted by gmpowered

F the knock sensors and ringlands right?

I would continue the quest to find if its false knock, TQ specs on factory knock sensors can effect them, as well as a broken wire changing resistance.
My collectors would leak and set off the KR sensor all the time. One trick to try is to put tape over the LT4 module ear holes on the PCM if that reduces KR you know its not the block sensor.
Misfires can cause KR, a bad wire,bad injector ect. Broken flywheel/flex plates TQ converters can cause it. A bad Opti can cause audible knock at idle, ect ect.
The Point is get the car running tip top before tuning it. Dont say eff the knock sensors until you KNOW its false knock.

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Guess guys that have no knock sensors all have bad ring lands then right?

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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

Then it's probably false, but I don't know what I'm talking about. If it's already locked you could have a flat out tap that's freaking the sensor out.

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A tap like from the rockers/exhaust/etc? Maybe, but I can't really hear anything. I checked my entire exhaust yesterday. The only thing I haven't done is my rockers again.

Why wouldn't pick it up in open loop? Are only certain sensors reading in open/closed loop?

Just another suggestion but are you sure your exhaust isn't banging on anything? Had that issue a long long time ago in my heads/cam days. Engine would torque and exhaust would hit causing a false knock.

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Originally Posted by blackbirdws6

Just another suggestion but are you sure your exhaust isn't banging on anything? Had that issue a long long time ago in my heads/cam days. Engine would torque and exhaust would hit causing a false knock.

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Positive. The exhaust brace in the center was hitting, but I fixed that, tightened the header bolts, an followed them to the y-pipe, the aluminum pipe for the a/c was close, but I moved it. Each header is about 1/4" or more from the k member and about a half an inch from the floor board. Also about 1/4" from the tranny brace. It's got to be something else that I can't hear while I'm in the car.

Uhh...maybe this has something to do with it. Is this the right O2 wire or knock sensor wire? I actually pulled back the heat wrap and found it. It's late, I didn't have time to tinker any more. Burnt wires are never a good thing, I do know that.

That's the abs wire. Knock sensor is one wire but it's definitely worth looking over.