8 different codes all of a sudden.

Honestly if it's hard to start when warm, I would look at the fuel pump. Not sure if that's what's causing your drain but that's always been a sign for me that a fuel pump is about to crap the bed. Might want to even check the fuel pump relay as well, I've seen enough cars have issues with it and that could be leading to a drain and failing fuel pump symptoms. A decent test is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and prime the pump while wiggling the relay, also check for any signs of burn plastic/wires around it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 94ndta

Nope on both.

and no on the alarm.

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i installed a viper with keyless entry and trunk pop and i have a complete system sub amps mids tweets kenwood with Bluetooth so i have hands free phone and integrated the steering wheel controls so they still work. how would those cause any code's?? seem's like a crazy question. i have never had any codes whatsoever

Quote:

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Originally Posted by myltwon

Honestly if it's hard to start when warm, I would look at the fuel pump. Not sure if that's what's causing your drain but that's always been a sign for me that a fuel pump is about to crap the bed. Might want to even check the fuel pump relay as well, I've seen enough cars have issues with it and that could be leading to a drain and failing fuel pump symptoms. A decent test is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and prime the pump while wiggling the relay, also check for any signs of burn plastic/wires around it.

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Not a bad idea. I thought I had already checked the fp, but that could also have been at initial start up. Thanks, that's another thing I will check.

Codes are fake. None are real. I just went through this myself. Get a laptop and scanning software and see what's really going on. Best mod I've invested in has been scanning software.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by El Super Kevbot

Codes are fake. None are real. I just went through this myself. Get a laptop and scanning software and see what's really going on. Best mod I've invested in has been scanning software.

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What did it end up being?


Im guessing it is the battery, with the electrical issues I have been having, it simply is shot from having to jump it/trickle charge it too many times. It won't even take a charge right now. I have the battery stored indoors, and one of my a inlaws cars died that took the same battery size. Took it out, wouldn't work. Hooked it up to the trickle charger over night, no charge now. Looks like I'm getting my third battery, I will just have to be more diligent and figure out this stupid electrical gremlin before I can drive my car.

Holy f*ck I think I just had a revelation.

if anyone else is following my build thread, I had an issue with not getting the Hotwire kit to work.

the Hotwire attaches to the alternator...i bet you my battery is shot, and my alternator is shot (original alternator)

thats causing the draw, that's why my car is so difficult to start after it's been sitting, that's what's causing the error codes.
I will of course test my theory, but I would bet my bottom dollar.

Now I just need the snow to melt so I can test my theory...insert evil laugh here..

Cars home, battery is good. Checked for a draw on the system, 16.9 mA. Disconnected the power wire from alternator, stil had a 16.9mA draw. Pulled the wiring harness off, tested it. Bam! No draw!

this connects directly into the voltage regulator if I'm not mistaken. 99% sure it's just the regulator as the alt is virtually brand new, but could it be the harness as well? Or would it best to replace the entire alternator and harness.
Voltage re
gulator would make make sense for every issue I am having right now (at least in my head.)

16.9mA/.0169A would not be considered a "draw" anything under 500mA is good/normal/common it would take about 90 days to use up the reserve capacity of a typical group 75 battery.
The current flow is for the excitation of the alternator and would not be present on a 1 wire/self exciting alternator.

The most likely cause for your problem is a poor ground somewhere in the PCM circuit. Check all of your grounds and clean your PCM connectors with contact cleaner.

The warm start condition would be ignition related not fuel. When an engine is warm the AFR is leaner and a lean mixture is more resistant to current flow so it works
the ignition system harder. What part of the ignition is the culprit is hard to say and the only way to know for sure is to connect an ignition analyzer/scope and look at
the waveform. The problem with that is there are few people that know how to read them and fewer shops that have them. My prime suspect would be the ICM though
provided the secondary side of the ignition system (plugs/wires) is in good working order. A weak coil will generally cause problems in the upper RPM from lack of
dwell time but not start up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Revolutions

16.9mA/.0169A would not be considered a "draw" anything under 500mA is good/normal/common it would take about 90 days to use up the reserve capacity of a typical group 75 battery.
The current flow is for the excitation of the alternator and would not be present on a 1 wire/self exciting alternator.

The most likely cause for your problem is a poor ground somewhere in the PCM circuit. Check all of your grounds and clean your PCM connectors with contact cleaner.

The warm start condition would be ignition related not fuel. When an engine is warm the AFR is leaner and a lean mixture is more resistant to current flow so it works
the ignition system harder. What part of the ignition is the culprit is hard to say and the only way to know for sure is to connect an ignition analyzer/scope and look at
the waveform. The problem with that is there are few people that know how to read them and fewer shops that have them. My prime suspect would be the ICM though
provided the secondary side of the ignition system (plugs/wires) is in good working order. A weak coil will generally cause problems in the upper RPM from lack of
dwell time but not start up.

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I will have to check it again. The screen is going out on my fluke, maybe it was 1690 mA, lol.
Right now now it will drain a battery over night. That's gotta be a significant draw.