Originally Posted by
joelster
I would go solid roller. With the amount of miles you put on the car a year, you'd have a "check lash once a year and be done with it" setup. You have the LS1 pcm which allows you a ton of rpm, so take advantage of it, and a single plane. Me setup is all custom, but still not a ton of money, but it is bulletproof and streetable.
$575--LSM custom cam- billet, small base circle, 4/7 firing order swap, 256/260 on a 105
$150--Lunati springs 228lb/525lb (nothing crazy at all)
$175-- Trend custom length pushrods, chromoly, full tapered, .080"
$875--Crower maximus lifters, these are overkill, you could get away with an Isky red-zone lifter and save $400, just make sure you get HIPPO
The cam was a lot, but the company was incredibly easy to deal with. They are very familiar with LT1 stuff and know what size dowel pin you'll need and can grind the cam in a week or so. Comp was a joke to deal with. Trend was also another amazing company to deal with. You won't need a monster .125" pushrod unless the pushrod is angled off of the lifter (like a big-block) or you are running some crazy valve spring pressures. LT1's and sbc's are pretty straight unless you have a big cylinder head like an AFR 227 which has offset valves, and you don't get offset lifters or rockers to correct it.
You could save about $100-$150 going with an AI solid roller grind that they have a part number for, and another $400 by going with a different set of lifters. Also, if you get a billet cam you'll need a special gear for the oil pump drive. I ditched the stock drive and went with a dummy distributor that is billet with the correct gear material. It was roughly $125 (off of the top of my head).
I would get something in the 245/255 range with lift .650"ish. It would pull over 7k with 398 cubes and still make great power with 11.5-1 compression. I'm running 11.77-1 and run pump 93. Those heads are just about as small as I would go for a 398 cube engine, but I think they could still work just as they are.