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nope, stock wiring goes straight to tank/in-tank pump. external has its own power feed/relay trigger from the nitrous panel, the relay/fuse for the external is under the rear driver side plastic in the hatch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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great seeing you today @Injuneer a million thank you's to you sir.
stock sender ready for racetronix fuel pump/wiring stuff which will be here hopefully tuesday or wednesday. then assemble, swap float, and install/run all the new wiring. in the interim i am putting the car in the air to continue heat wrapping all the fuel lines to try to hopefully resolve these little issues.
Fred clued me into something, he also said that he wanted to go 9's with the car and that was it.....
so that makes 2 of us that made that statement, is the car being emotional?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a072c7f6f4.jpg
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racetronix stuff showed up yesterday. gonna assemble/glue the pump bucket tonight and start running the wiring. i bought the hd wiring kit which is heavier gauge than the regular hotwire kit, and the hd tank wiring. has dual power feeds from the relay all the way to the pump plug, doubled up 10 gauge. have to drill the sender hat for the grounding stud as well.
welp, sender is almost assembled. have to run the hotwire kit/relay and once thats done ill swap. also have to remove and reinstall the level sensor on this sending unit. so far the only real pain was the 30 amp rated bulkhead connector, its a press fit metal tension ring that digs into the bulkhead connector plastic. was a pita. oh and have to trim bucket vent hose and secure, this sending unit doesnt have the notched tab to secure the hose, @Injuneer is a zip tie fuel rated?? lol
hopefully tomorrow this will be buttoned up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...35f96077df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...eb1530805d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...be81217899.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f34e62278b.jpg
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Wondering about the zip tie fuel rating....
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found a micro hose clamp i can make work lol. the ziptie in the pic is just for the glue to set on the bucket. will be cut off before suction filter goes on and gets dropped in tankQuote:
Originally Posted by Brandon++S
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I wanna smack whoever welded the level sensor to the sender that was in the car....ughhhh.
shes back together and fired off, pressure is about 2psi higher at idle, so may have to lower that a hair. see what the wideband reads.
but while i was under there, i got fluid all over the ds brake bracket/axle tube.....what the hell...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e08382be6b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3af67e8e9b.jpg
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When I first got the car back after the engine build, either the fuel gauge was not working, or failed shortly thereafter. Can’t remember. There was also a strong smell of fuel in the car when the driver window was down. The canister was still in the car and was supposed to be hooked up. I took it back and told them to fix it. At that time, supposedly you couldn’t buy a new level sensor. They claimed they had to buy a complete sending unit (without the pump) and the damn thing cost about $250. I know they drilled the rivets out of the new sender to release the sensor.
Logically it would make sense to pop rivet the sensor to the old unit. Is it possible the construction of the old (factory original) sender is different from the “new” sender, preventing using a couple pop-rivets? Had they possibly removed the plate the sensor mounted to in order to clear the Bosch pump? I can’t think of any other reason anything needed to be welded. I have used photos of the new sender to help people online with fuel pump/sender issues. And I have noticed there are apparently more than one version in existence.
All the work was done by dropping the tank. Apparently the EVAP hoses on top of the tank (the ones you sent me a picture of) came loose, or they forgot to hook things back up. The fuel smell disappeared after they reconnected everything.
the level sensor bracket on the custom sender was not modified, just instead of rivets they welded it lol. the only thing that was welded on the one i took out was a piece of angle metal and that's what the pump was hose clamped to. i ground off the welds and pop riveted it to the sender you gave meQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
thank you for giving me that stock sending unit, that saved so many headaches
shes all sorted now. the axle seal leak is minor. damn rain though i couldnt take it for a drive [emoji24]
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Did you get my email about finding BOTH the QA1 front coil over springs? I thought I ordered 275 #/in springs, but the plastic bag each spring is in shows “OED-315-S”, but I never saw a QA1 315 # spring listed. Anyway free to a good home.
hey yes i i thought i replied, ill take em, its a nice drive down lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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No need to pick them up right away.
that and those 3.90's as well i gotta get from you. i think that will make the difference on the 250 shot to go 9.70's. strange tech support is confused on which axle i have (given the age) the old part number the kid couldnt find. so gonna have the local shop do the gears most likely and axle sealsQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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welp, small victories. made it round trip to the engines for emma show without issue. bout a hour each way on back roads speeds between 35-55mph, in some traffic too no issues. never stalled, didn't act weird.
new issues: gas gauge spazzing when full. coolant temp gauge spazzing for some reason too (not consistent with fuel gauge spazzing), and the rear....ooph the rear is noisy. but NO STALLING. hopefully thats been rectified now. oh also when your fiance tries being saucy in her 392 charger.....the bird didnt disappoint (on motor)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5915a2f255.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...04132c3784.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6b911a75be.jpg
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soooooo, need opinions:
purchased the below 1 gallon fuel cell. smallest 1 gallon i could find. I cant justify $1000 on the nitrous outlet stand-alone cell. i think that price is insane.
need thoughts on mounting it either in front or in back.
in front, behind front bumper would necessitate me adding a 1.25" tube from frame horn to frame horn to be nhra legal (midwest bumper support too small, burkardt would be ok but im not buying 1 just for this)
Option 2 is mount it in the hatch well, and bulkhead off the rear hatch area (i would do it similiar to the wolfe style below) then run a 6an line all the way to front
thoughts??https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...69317dd7eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b6ff81705f.jpg
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I would stash it up front. Less lines, less potential for leak and easier overall IMO
abs deleteˇhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b81ea0c6b4.jpg
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Would relo the battery make enough room for the fuel cell? Maybe replace the battery tray/reservoir with a smaller bottle style reservoir.
that was a thought too. i want to get the abs delete done first then maybe i will relocate it. Osie has all the stuff and a fancy crimper since he just did his. just looking at minimizing costs right now. Adding a 1.25" piece of tubing to the front is the cheaper option, mount cell and pump to that then just run lines and relay. battery relocation comes in a bit more expensiveQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
forgot to take a pic, will get one when i get home, the abs is halfway deleted. rear line/prop valve done, had a lunch date with the fiance (happy wife happy life lol) then going home to finish the front lines.
awesome thing is you put a hurst 3 port line lock in, so i am thinking of relocating the solenoid a little further back from its present location on the shock tower and using it as the tee for the front brakes instead of addi g a tee, also cannot identify exactly where the passenger front hardline was leaking, but unless im going crazy, there was 1 spot that had significant corrosion on the springy tube protector and was the wettest, thinking there was a pinhole there.
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abs deleted, and new passenger side niccop line ran. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...675c19c3cc.jpg
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got fluid at the passenger front just gravity. that line filled up rather quickhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3646ca5e3e.jpg
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how does the ole strut bar ironically match the frame horn dimensions nearly to center and is the right diameter for what i need for a fuel cell mount....is this too redneck? at the end of the day, its just tubinghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f15004c2b5.jpg
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not bad for some flux core/an old strut bar/some 1/8" flat stock
now to plumb/wire ithttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e0202b74e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f270fb54d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a7cd5f55c3.jpg
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Send LG Motorsports a photo. Bet they never thought their 4-point shock tower brace would serve any other useful purpose :D
i generally reuse things lol because im broke. Parts list said G2 strut bar, it was a LG? i dont even think lg is still around, think lou packed it in, now i feel bad for cutting it upQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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Don’t know about Lou, but looks like the business is alive and well. I think I still have one of his catalogs from ye olde days.
https://www.lgmotorsports.com/
Everybody told me I was going to crack the windshield by bolting that thing to the cowl. Survived for ~25 years.
LG is definitely still around haha, big in the vette community.
this entire week has been a drag waiting on fittings/pushlock hose/fuel filter. Everything is plumbed except between pump and regulator because of waiting for the fuel filter which was supposed to be here wednesday, still no sign of it and tracking hasnt updated ughhh....
really considering buying a nos mini like now and slapping it in before the track day, my son made a smart ass remark (10 years old) in the garage last night, he goes "dad are you sure the window switch works?"..........UGH. he reminded me that the intellitronix/summit window switch acts up sometimes.
dedicated in, plumbed, fuel pressure flowed thru a jet to set pressure, etc.
gonna button up the nose tonight after work, hopefully take it for a ride and set proportioning valve and do a test hit to check afr on spray tomorrow (if the damn road dries)
200 jets in it already. i have a nos mini progressive en route as well that will get installed before the rental on the 20thhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dafdcfbc17.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bb27757ebb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...db6c9708ad.jpg
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lets go set the prop valvehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8a4b4a9c5d.jpg
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made 1 dig hit which knocked the tired off but it went in 2nd and 3rd. data was clean. 2nd hit from a roll in 2nd gear to 3rd afr was pretty good, maybe a hair rich.
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Can't wait for you to bring it back to the track with all the fueling issues resolved. Got a feeling you're gonna beat your previous times.
Nolan
i hope so lol thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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nos progressive in and mostly wired up. changed the wot switch to a grounding switch, just have to connect the nitrous retard signal to the LTCC along with rpm.
but i did do an oopsie last night. when i powered the system on, mind you it was 1230am, i had not yet connected the ground to the nos controller, so the rewire caused the relay to close, and power the solenoids, and after about 2 mins smelled a smell i know all too well from work, burning epoxy [emoji24]
i shut it down and pulled the nitrous coil. it ohms out ok. fuel ohms out ok too, but the nitrous coil stunk and was super super hot.
after i fixed my f up, i repowered and pulsed the solenoids a few times and they are working, but to be safer than sorry, and seeing as the nitrous solenoid was the last piece of the hodgepodge used system, i called up my buddy/speed shop guy Lethal Deals who had a NX 15300L solenoid in stock. Sent a friend down to get it today since i work today and tomorrow, and will install tonighthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...29e67ae736.jpg
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I hate that smell. As a retired maintenance electrician, that smell is forever impregnated in my nose. I'll tell you what's fun, walking into a huge motor control center at the plant and smelling a coil burning up. Then you have to follow your nose opening motor starter door after door trying to find it.
Rebuilding burnt up switchgear is a real stinky job too, I've had to work on a bunch of them. I rebuilt a big VFD for a 500 HP motor one time. It got unstable while we were tuning it to run 10% over speed (66 HZ) and blew up. The factory engineer we were working with nearly shit his pants. Amazingly, not much burnt smell but I had to replace everything in it which was not fun.
Nolan
been there done that, as a commercial hvac tech ive smoked a few solenoids/starter coils etc, as well lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
had a real good one a 500ton split start chiller starter go boom on the secondary side. that was fun.
Had a 10hp schneider vfd take a shit a few weeks back, phase to phase short, blew the 200amp breaker out of the unit. My second guy gets a little weird around 460v now lol
vfd's dont smell the same lol
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nos progressive in, new nx pro power solenoid in, had to change to one of the old nos solenoids as a purge.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...76ff13e58a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7a5f92b024.jpg
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holley wanted almost 200 bux for the pressure sensor/pigtail to display nitrous pressure on the nos progressive display.....
found the exact sensor (without a holley sticker) with harness for $26 bux on amazon, holley efi forum had a part number from the manufacturer (ssi)
thatll be here tomorrow, just to reference what the autometer gauge says vs the nos display. i am wondering if my backfire issue was due to too much bottle pressure pushing thru the old nitrous outlet solenoid.
1600psi pressure transducer installed for digital bottle pressure on nos progressive display. funny thing is, i thought the calibration on the sensor may be off since its kind of "cheap" (remember amazon special).....
well it matches the mechanical gauge i have at the back of the car on the nitrous line, which both read about 50ish psi LOWER than the autometer mechanical in the hvac vent.
interestinghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3b7c921137.jpg
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hmmhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4c197dd675.jpg
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