Thoughts on replacing the timing chain?
Printable View
Thoughts on replacing the timing chain?
dan the double roller cover you will need to go with the 24x is :bigmoney2:any where from 375 to 450 plus electric water pump......the stock unit lasts plenty long and can take a beating a new 1 will probably outlast the car
https://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/24xLT1.aspx
I was thinking about just putting a gm replacement one on. But if ya'll don't think I should I wont. Just wanted to ask.
:)
You can't run a double roller with that reluctor anyway. The only way to have double roller and room for the crank sensor is to buy the low pro reluctor and the billet timing cover. Then the electric water pump is required. Just stick with a stock timing set.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
geez, it looks like it costs more to go 24x than to just swap in a whole 5.3 lol.
How so? I'm only in the hole $300ish after selling some things. I don't have to do anything with my trans either..
Andddddd... he remains true blue LTX!
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Just from looking at the prices of stuff in the link albinobird posted. Granted I don't know what things are all required to do the conversion, just seems like it would add up quick. I only spent about $1200 for my whole swap when it was said and done w/ LTs and a tubular K. I actually made money from converting my trans so definitely no complaints there lol.
That's for a double roller setup. I'll probably never get to that point
Blue like my c5 calipers that I bought from Fastbird whooooo dooogggy!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...f39774c568.jpg
Pic for attention. Not on my car
I saw that... awesome to see the progress. Just wait till u r not in school and have MONEY! Look what happened to me. Lol
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
The double roller is only really necessary for the solid roller and boosted guys who need higher spring pressures.
My double roller 24x swap was around $730~ for everything but any money saved got dumped into the single plane.
I found dark stars for ~450 lol I need to close the wallet.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fel-...JNEaAqCs8P8HAQ
I got this gasket set from work. Was cheaper than summit! I couldn't believe it!
My face when I beat summits price at work: http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...a35cf31ee8.jpg
Got the car in the garage. Last time it will move with an optispark. Hopefully the 24x install goes smoothly
Good luck.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Fancy Schmancy!
They sure are! What am I going to do about my rears? They are this ugly red.. A little lazy to repaint them.. Should I just leave em?
I'd paint them, you can be lazy about it and it still look decent.
find a can of high temp paint that matches your fronts, hit them with a wire brush and some brake clean. tape off the rotors (i just wrapped an old rag around mine) and spray away! you might want to hit them with some self etching primer to cover up the red if it doesn't come off with the wire brush and brake clean. When i did my CTS-v brakes i painted my rears like this and they still look fine. I sprayed the brackets black and the calipers them self silver. since people will onlt ever see the one side facing it i didn't feel the need to make them perfect.
Yeah. I'll get some paint from O'Reilly. I asked Sean what paint was used and the guy he. Bought it from used autozone blue so. Might even paint the rears black.
I do want to paint /powdercoat the conversion bracket a crazy color though :D
Will those calipers bolt up to LS spindles? I found out that my Brembos bolt directly to the spindles so i didn't have to use brackets. To me that was one less aftermarket part I have to worry about failing.
No. The c5 brakes won't mount up. The ls spindle just requires one less ear bring cut off.
I still need to order the stainless front lines and torque arm from founders. Also ordering a lakewood drive shaft safety loop in the spring.
Better picture of these purty brakes!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...ac1ee0cb5f.jpg
You bought a 'vette??
Ya you wanna see a picture of it?
Of course, a vette is much cooler than a fbod!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...26db6d6961.jpg
That's all you get to see!
I've decided. Once the conversion brackets come in, I will be getting them powder coated.. The color, well that's a secret for now
Sparkly pink.
Attachment 34824
FUCK YEAH!
I'm serious about it though. Won't really be able to see it so.. why not?
Using a vortec distributor for 1x cam signal instead of EFI's CMP on the timing cover. Junkyard PCM with connectors, junkyard D585 coil packs/coil harnesses/misc pigtails, billet cover from TPIS ($325), 24x reluctor from EFI, and mah boi SNM hooked me up with the coil pack harnesses to repin my factory one. I also picked the EFI valve cover coil brackets and MSD 8.5mm plug wire kit on a FB group for $80 shipped.
The vortec dizzy means you'd either have to have the stock intake manifold machined for it (more money than it's worth) or swap to single plane. I chose the latter because my build was already out of control.
The whole 24x swap would have been half as much had I kept it single roller.
I see, save money in one area and spend big somewhere else.
Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
Not necessarily, the single plane can be somewhat cheaply with angle washers, water neck block off plate, and some pipe plugs. All you have to do is enlarge some holes and drill/tap 2 on each side in the head but that saves a few hundred of machining/welding. I have about $550 into mine right now (manifold, rails, elbow, 90mm throttle body, etc.) and there are only a few small things left to fab. Considering the alternative is getting a ported LT4 intake, 58mm throttle body, and modding the fuel rails for parallel, it doesn't end up being that much more.
Ordered my stainless front brake lines. Should see those in a few days then it's cutting time!