project car: 94 z/28 m6

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Originally Posted by hokeplaya05

been super busy and lost motivation on this thing the last couple weeks but decided to climb under the car and fish that chunk out to see what it is. turns out it is a thin piece of aluminum (looks like a slightly thicker piece of aluminum foil) not a chunk like i though initially that is about half inch by half inch in size when flattened out. anybody have any idea where that may have came from? I've been trying to figure it out but can't think of anything in the motor that looks like that. last time i drove the car was the day before xmas 2018 and it drove as normal with no unusual noises or anything like that. because of that, i am sort of inclined to just put it back together as is and run it and take my chances. i have no idea how long those pieces have been in the pan, could've been a week or 3 years for all i know. what do you guys think?

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the seal from a 5 quart jug of oil sounds like what youre describing. put it back together and run it

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here is the piece next to the pin i found too. its not an oil seal from a bottle, its thicker than that.

Attachment 38993

got a few hours today to do a couple things; got the turbo oil drain bung booger welded to the pan and got the ls1 front spindles and brake caliper painted. broke the bleed screw off in the other caliper so need to drill that out or get a new caliper and paint that to match

Attachment 38994
Attachment 38995

so as part of all this i am also deleting the ABS module (already removed the module from the engine bay) to make more room for the BOV and to clean up the engine bay. from what i am reading there is a kit from SJM but it doesn't seem to be that great of a kit according to this thread (http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/showth...ght=abs+delete) so i am trying to piece together everything that i will need separately. from what i gather i can hook up the rear brake line directly to the master (i have a 3 channel car) and use a proportioning valve for the front with a split after to run the two front lines, is that correct or do i need a proportioning valve for both the front and back? not looking to do line lock or anything at this time just trying to keep it simple. looking for some insight from people who have done this

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hokeplaya05

so as part of all this i am also deleting the ABS module (already removed the module from the engine bay) to make more room for the BOV and to clean up the engine bay. from what i am reading there is a kit from SJM but it doesn't seem to be that great of a kit according to this thread (http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/showth...ght=abs+delete) so i am trying to piece together everything that i will need separately. from what i gather i can hook up the rear brake line directly to the master (i have a 3 channel car) and use a proportioning valve for the front with a split after to run the two front lines, is that correct or do i need a proportioning valve for both the front and back? not looking to do line lock or anything at this time just trying to keep it simple. looking for some insight from people who have done this

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You need a proportioning valve for the REAR brakes, not the front. so it would be rear line from master---->prop valve--->rear brakes. Front just gets a tee and goes to both front brakes. you want full braking to the front (brakes that do most of the braking) and less to the rear, since when you hit the brakes the rear weight transfers forward. Otherwise you will lock up the rear brakes (which is really no fun, especially when going towards a deer then a tree then a house then a truck, had my prop valve improperly adjusted and still locked up rears)

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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

You need a proportioning valve for the REAR brakes, not the front. so it would be rear line from master---->prop valve--->rear brakes. Front just gets a tee and goes to both front brakes. you want full braking to the front (brakes that do most of the braking) and less to the rear, since when you hit the brakes the rear weight transfers forward. Otherwise you will lock up the rear brakes (which is really no fun, especially when going towards a deer then a tree then a house then a truck, had my prop valve improperly adjusted and still locked up rears)

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that makes way more sense, thanks for clearing that up. thinking i will just spring for the basic kit without line lock and will have to find out what that 1-2 brass fitting is in post #6 of that thread for the front lines

if you are making your own brake lines, save the money and buy the Summit prop valve.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905

And, do yourself a favor... buy & install a line lock solenoid.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...iABEgIUifD_BwE

Even if you don't wire it up, you will want it when the car is setup and you want to do rowdy burnouts

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Originally Posted by shownomercy

if you are making your own brake lines, save the money and buy the Summit prop valve.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905

And, do yourself a favor... buy & install a line lock solenoid.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...iABEgIUifD_BwE

Even if you don't wire it up, you will want it when the car is setup and you want to do rowdy burnouts

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eh, @Ltconvert has a line lock thats never been wired in his, he makes enough to do rowdy burnouts without it lol

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what spark plugs would you guys suggest i run? currently have TR6's in the car and figure this will be a good time to throw some new ones in while the manifolds and subframe are out of the car. also, where are you guys getting 80lb injectors from? are they the same injectors that would fin an LS or are the LT specific? i think i got the 36lb-ers off ebay that are in the car now but not positive. got some stuff done on the car over the weekend which i will update with pictures later but trying to get these on order today so i can have them by the weekend

I'd recommend either a NGK BR6EF or a BR7EF depending on how far you plant to push it (BR7's are colder, my T/A would foul them QUICK).

I run TR6's and probably are at the limit of what the plug is good for. ~15psi of boost.

If you don't want to pass that level, run TR6s and don't have to change em that often.