More spark retard after fixing exhaust leaks and trying race gas.

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Originally Posted by 94ndta

That would be my 4th tune by 3 different people. I have no reason to think TPiS did anything wrong or Solomon, both said it has nothing to do with the tune itself. Plus, I would be traveling 4+ hours to go to and LTX tuner not nearly as reputable as TPiS.

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Tpis isn't that reputable. No offense. Why can't u do the tune yourself? Somethings whacky here and doesn't make sense as to why you continue to have knock. Or maybe you actually DO have knock. Is it hanging at idle at like 1 or 2 degrees spark retard with the car just idling? If so it's a bad knock module, or you have to pull out the knock reading in that idle rpm area. Set it to 0.

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@94ndta do you have an lt4 knock module ?

If your car is an early revision b computer the lt4 module will not work and will cause nothing but problems, like false ghost knock. I chased my tail on 2 cars for 2 months with 3 different lt4 modules until I found that out.
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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

Tpis isn't that reputable. No offense. Why can't u do the tune yourself? Somethings whacky here and doesn't make sense as to why you continue to have knock. Or maybe you actually DO have knock. Is it hanging at idle at like 1 or 2 degrees spark retard with the car just idling? If so it's a bad knock module, or you have to pull out the knock reading in that idle rpm area. Set it to 0.

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Most reputable near me I guess I could say. I am getting to the point where I am going to try and tune it myself. I have tried my stock lt1 km and lt4 km. Basically as soon as I hit the gas it starts to register knock and starts pulling timing. Most of the time it goes right to 5* (limit) at sometimes it doesn't register it all. It does it free revving too and with 104octane gas

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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

@94ndta do you have an lt4 knock module ?

If your car is an early revision b computer the lt4 module will not work and will cause nothing but problems, like false ghost knock. I chased my tail on 2 cars for 2 months with 3 different lt4 modules until I found that out.
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I currently have the lt4 KM in but have tried both. I don't think it is the KM, I covered to ear holes to try to desensatize to KM, not change. There is a not a lot of noise in the engine bay IMO.

I have a buddy with a really fast L67, and he has a trick we are going to try. They often wrap their knock sensors in dynamat to filter out exterior noises. It still registers real knock inside the engine but filters loud out noises from other parts of the engine bay, in their case right next to a noisy transmission.

Worth a shot.

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Originally Posted by 94ndta

Most reputable near me I guess I could say. I am getting to the point where I am going to try and tune it myself. I have tried my stock lt1 km and lt4 km. Basically as soon as I hit the gas it starts to register knock and starts pulling timing. Most of the time it goes right to 5* (limit) at sometimes it doesn't register it all. It does it free revving too and with 104octane gas


I currently have the lt4 KM in but have tried both. I don't think it is the KM, I covered to ear holes to try to desensatize to KM, not change. There is a not a lot of noise in the engine bay IMO.

I have a buddy with a really fast L67, and he has a trick we are going to try. They often wrap their knock sensors in dynamat to filter out exterior noises. It still registers real knock inside the engine but filters loud out noises from other parts of the engine bay, in their case right next to a noisy transmission.

Worth a shot.

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Try a different pcm and a stock lt1 knock module

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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

Tpis isn't that reputable. No offense. Why can't u do the tune yourself? Somethings whacky here and doesn't make sense as to why you continue to have knock. Or maybe you actually DO have knock. Is it hanging at idle at like 1 or 2 degrees spark retard with the car just idling? If so it's a bad knock module, or you have to pull out the knock reading in that idle rpm area. Set it to 0.

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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

Try a different pcm and a stock lt1 knock module

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I can understand another KM, but why another pcm?

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Originally Posted by 94ndta

I can understand another KM, but why another pcm?

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Pcm could have an internal issue that's making it false knock. Shot in the dark, but I've seen crazier shit

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Worked on it some more today. First thing I did was inspect the flywheel for cracks, got some new tq converter bolts, TQd them properly (old ones seemed fine) removed 1 fan that I thought the water pump might be hitting, dynamatted the knock sensor, torqued it to 14 ft lbs, checked over everything again for anything that could rattle. Still the same issue.

I took a stethoscope to the motor and exhaust again to see if I could hear anything, nothing it of the ordinary.

I can tap on he exhaust and have it register knock, more so on the passenger side of the engine than the driver. I'm going to try to dynamat over the knock module for diagnostic purposes, simply to see if only one of them is picking up the knock.

If that doesn't work, I will maybe try another knock module, knock sensor (even though it tested fine) and then last resort maybe a new PCM.

I'm 100% certain it is false at this point, really good A/F when dynoed, does it with race gas, does it when not under load.

This is getting really old.

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Originally Posted by 94ndta

Worked on it some more today. First thing I did was inspect the flywheel for cracks, got some new tq converter bolts, TQd them properly (old ones seemed fine) removed 1 fan that I thought the water pump might be hitting, dynamatted the knock sensor, torqued it to 14 ft lbs, checked over everything again for anything that could rattle. Still the same issue.

I took a stethoscope to the motor and exhaust again to see if I could hear anything, nothing it of the ordinary.

I can tap on he exhaust and have it register knock, more so on the passenger side of the engine than the driver. I'm going to try to dynamat over the knock module for diagnostic purposes, simply to see if only one of them is picking up the knock.

If that doesn't work, I will maybe try another knock module, knock sensor (even though it tested fine) and then last resort maybe a new PCM.

I'm 100% certain it is false at this point, really good A/F when dynoed, does it with race gas, does it when not under load.

This is getting really old.

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Why don't you literally just tune the knock sensor out if you are CERTAIN it's false. If your afr is good and you are certain everything else is good tune the damn thing out. If it's registering knock at idle then tune it out so it doesn't pull timing. It will still show knock counts increasing, but your performance won't diminish

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That is also an option, but I like the idea of having some protection against knock.

The more I talk with local racers/tuners the more people I hear giving up on them for certain combos that they can't fix false knock issues, or they don't actually save motors as well as people think.

I threw in the towel for this year. I set max retard to 2 degrees across the board. I looked at all my scans, when at WOT, I get no knock counts, and spark retard starts to diminish. I can feel it too. At the track, as I am crossing the traps, it feels like someone kicked me in the ass, and at zero degrees pulled. I can really feel it come on. I will search for the rattle/vibration more next year. Maybe I am focusing too much on the passanger side as the motor turns more towards that side, but maybe it's resting hitting driver side, and as the motor is moving it is creating a sound/vibration I can't find.