Maintenance on my '94 z28 pic heavy

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Originally Posted by Injuneer

If "the car flashes codes when I connect", what code(s) is it flashing?

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I'm not sure Fred - I will check when I can. I realized what was happening after I was done scanning.

It may have been the EGR/AIR/Coolant temp sensor DTCs that were set. I have only heard of '93 cars flashing codes though?

My ride smoothness has improved quite a bit. The car runs a lot smoother on the new opti/plugs/wires. It's so quite now I think I've stalled the car.

I still have the idle stumbling problem so I started on the headers/o2 sensor. I notice the change going in to closed loop. My open loop is smoother so the closed loop seems worse to me I think (could be losing it.)

I've got the Y pipe off and am stuck on the last 2 passenger side bolts. I'm going slow with them in case they break. I did crack each bolt a little last year so that helps. Left them overnight in a Kroil bath. I'm going to grind down a socket and the box end of a wrench to fit in there. Also changing the differential fluid.

Why would you be getting a code for AIR? As long as there is a good fuse in the circuit, DTC 29 won't set.

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Originally Posted by Injuneer

Why would you be getting a code for AIR? As long as there is a good fuse in the circuit, DTC 29 won't set.

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I assumed I would after ripping out all the AIR stuff? I will check everything thoroughly when I finish the headers. Didn't realize how much blood and tears I would shed for them. Everytime I think I can get away with not unbolting something I'm wrong...

The only code the AIR system sets it for the control relay circuit/fuse. The PCM doesn't have a way to tell if the AIR pump is there, or whether there is any air flow into the manifolds. Those capabilities were not added until 1996 with OBD-2.

Aggh should have bought the smaller headers! Of course everyone else's would hit the steering shaft but not me ;). Need to get this done before it gets to -10 tomorrow. We had an Ice storm so I can't drive now. Should finish up tonight.

If you buy the 1 7/8" headers (I think that's what they are). They require beating on. I had to hammer the right side in 3 different places. The left side drops straight in but hits the steering shaft. I did both of mine from the top.

Had to remove right side 3 times and left side once. Still have it on ramps. It may hit below. Need new motor mounts.

I think plugs are harder to do now. Wires are easier tho. I used to be able to do the front 3 on each side from the top. Hard to get #5,7,8 w/ the headers.

I want to leave a review that says "Perfect fitment. 2 beer job!"


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What headers? I did a ls steering shaft and my xs power didn't hit

@Mrmaroon Weren't those Speed engineering headers? Ive been thinking about those but I don't drink.

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Originally Posted by Stormyweather

@Mrmaroon Weren't those Speed engineering headers? Ive been thinking about those but I don't drink.

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Yea they were the Speed Engineering. If you buy them get for sure new motor mounts, a hammer, drill the outside holes bigger, get Allen head bolts, put the back bolt in first.

I had a helper and it took me a while to make what I had work. I was in a closed barn most nights it was 20 degrees and no working heater.

I got pissed off one time enough to cut my hand open. This was after it took 3 tries to get the passenger side in from the top. I couldn't get the back bolt in. I pulled it a fourth time and did last bolts first.

Driver side dropped straight in. The problem there was the steering shaft. Denting the tube and moving the steering column over was just enough. I may have to get new mounts.

I'm running open headers until the noise pisses me off enough to do the Y pipe. It looks like Ill have to cut the drivers side pipe to Y and my stock cat back some. Running the Y parts without the collector and angling then outward for now. I only needed 1 O2 extension.

They don't look bad, but they're not Kooks either. If pacesetter had cheap stainless I would have got smaller pipes. I've got a magnaflow to put in next.

I'll post a video and some photos when I'm done cleaning up. The headers look great installed Y pipe looks good too. Car sounds good with open headers was surprised!

If I could go back I would def buy the motor mounts and may still do that.




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Running open headers, with the O2 sensors in the collectors, can cause the engine to run rich. The backwash of air causes the O2 sensors to report a lean condition.

Thanks, sounds like a lot of work. And it looks like they are not making them anymore.Everyone is out of stock.