im gonna make one that does fit with the gear vendors. also yes, those didnt help much besides making the exhaust sound tinny. i have them turned inwardsQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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im gonna make one that does fit with the gear vendors. also yes, those didnt help much besides making the exhaust sound tinny. i have them turned inwardsQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
vorshlag tie down hooks installed. also looking for a set of 98+ spindles to do a brembo conversion onhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...59eec8c8c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0ae48781ca.jpg
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so getting nitrous has been a pita. but the bottle i have that you gave me @Injuneer with the old 90 degree nos valve has 8lbs in it.....sooooo
Details on the tow hooks?
These thingies: https://vorshlag-store.com/products/...-loop-kit-pairQuote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
Vorshlag will take you to town on shipping though lol
Lmao facts! yes thats themQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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For those that havent seen on fb or firebird nation yet, 10.34 on a 150shot. she was MOVINGhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7f6424b397.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9c465561e0.jpg
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Nice!
Congrats
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Guess I got him hooked on nitrous……
He only had 8# in the bottle to start… I wonder if it was losing pressure fast on the last 1/8th mile.
probably, that 10.34 was the last pass [emoji1]Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
we got it covered now though
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sooooooo....not sure if the fuel solenoid was working on that run. she was a bit lean so we were checking everything over yesterday and found a broken wire feeding 12v to the fuel solenoid :( so far none of the plus (atleast 1-3-5-7) just have a very slight peppering on the porcelan but the strap looks pretty good.
new plugs on the way. of course i have nitrous now and new rear et street r drag radials and it looks like it is going to rain all weekend. atco tnt tomorrow night i dont think i can make
Hey Fred, wake up!Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
10.15 on 200, track couldnt hold it on the hit though [emoji24]
Went to Lebanon valley for an open rental today. Wish it was Atco and stickier. Car went 11.65 at 118.2 on motor off the trailer. Sprayed 2 passes on 150 shot, first was 10.39 at 130.6! i picked up 4 mph on the same tune up.
Next pass was a 10.49 with a bad 60ft. I then decided to try 175hp but i couldnt find my 175hp jet. So in went 200hp pills and yea,
10.15 at 134.10!
Wooooot. So close! if i would have had a 1.42 60ft like the island 10.34 pass, it wouldve been 10.0x's
This thing is F**K**G FAST!
This week and next need to go over the car, have a pesky oil leak from the front end of the motor. it sprayed oil from somewhere on that 10.49 pass. Might be time to redo the oil pan gasket as well.
Thank you @Injuneer for trusting me with this machine. Thank you @NightTrain66 for the custom solid roller.
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Where did you find the nitrous refill?
My calculation showed the 300-shot running 9.75 @ 139. Guess it’s possible……
Thanks for showing us what it can do. Much better than looking at calculations!
lethal deals in ivyland pa. its a bit of a ride but the place is classic speed shop. actually loading bottles to head there now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
wallace racing calculators online are putting the hp somewhere between 680 and 720 flywheel
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Awesome runs, time slip clearly shows the 200 shot can easily put it in the 9's. Your reaction time of 1.179 on the 10.15 run makes me think that you could have easily dipped in the 9's ?
Thanks for sharing.
Nolan
Reaction time has no bearing on E/T. I could sit in the beams for 5 minutes as long as they don't reset and still run the same number as I would if I cut a perfect tree. As he mentioned, get the 60 ft down and it's in the 9s.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
Oh ok, I guess my way of thinking was skewed. Please ignore and carry on.
Nolan
my reaction time was being lazy. reaction time has nothing to do with time down the track, track doesn't start counting your actual pass time until you leave the beamsQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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changed the bottle mounting. vertical was a pain in the ass, also i think the dip tube was getting uncovered on a pass, looking at the datalog i have rich spikes and the car felt surgy up top on the 10.15, weighed the bottles at the shop and the 2nd 200 shot pass 10.29 at 134.14 i only used 2lbs? figured id use atleast 3lbshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3d7b61a878.jpg
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Yep, I was corrected already.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
Great run.
Carry on.
Nolan
sorry nolan didnt realize someone else posted too no biggie man thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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heres an in car vid from a 10.39 at 130 on the 150hp jets.
https://youtu.be/5jQGG9dx92Q
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hmmmm
do we second stage ithttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b6e5f552cc.jpg
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That guy is cool, I got my ET Streets from him. Did he have a 4th gen Camaro roller when you were there? I think it was all tubbed out lolQuote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
I can't get over how well mannered your car is to be ripping 10's. Equally impressed by the 1st gen you ran with, he was hauling ass, wonder what he ran?
Nolan
The time slip in post #412 appears it may be for the 1st Gen. He left early. If that's correct 9.723 @ 136.07.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
I like to think the suspension was on me. But I handled it the same as I did Baxter's 1.2x 60-ft, low 8-second 30th SS. I told him to take it to Steve Spohn. Steve supplied a lot of the parts. I had one of his very first adjustable torque arms. When I had my car at his shop installing his LCA relo brackets, he looked at the torque arm and figured he had to reinforced it. When he saw what I was doing with the engine he upgraded to a newer version. When I had the Gear Vendors installed, he built me a custom reinforced torque arm, to clear the GV, and with the driveshaft loop moved back onto the arm so is was correctly positioned within 6” of the u-joint. He installed it and set up the pinion angle.
Also comped me newer adjustable LCA's with spherical rod ends. When he designed his first “race version” adjustable rear sway bar (1-5/16” solid chrome-moly) Steve and his dad used my car for his first install, so he could check for glitches and write up install instructions. He set it up with me in the driver seat. The quality of his parts (certified AWS welder), his knowledge of the workings of the torque arm suspension (he raced a 3rd Gen and took courses on suspension design), and his ethical business practices made for a good guy to know. I met him online - he was looking to borrow a T56 so he could design a complete kit to install it in 3rd Gens. I had a spare, drove out to the middle of PA and dropped it off. He returned the favor many times over.
I'm still trying to figure out how the bolts for the steering wheel adapter plate came loose……
i sold him stuff from my 95 formula for that car lol thats how i met him. He sold it and has another nova now. larrys a good dude, im a regular there now lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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Yes correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Suspension is set up pretty well, but since you set it up for a bias ply slick, and im running a radial, i have some adjusting to do.
Car has amazing separation instead of rocking backward like most fbodys, but with a radial, it hits the tire too hard and the radial being stiff it springs back about 5-10ft out and then starts hazing the tire. thats killing my 60ft.
next track outing i will be playing with shock settings to try to slow down the rear separation and also slow the front down from lifting so quick. hoping that brings the 60ft down
Also, i am in progress of planning a 2nd stage/2nd nozzle. 200 on the hit is a bit aggressive, and the only thing i need to do it is a 2nd nozzle and fuel solenoid, i have everything else.
Plan is to rewire the system so 1st stage is just wot switch, jet that for 100-125, then second stage interlocked with wot switch/wired into window switch for say 4200-7000rpm jetted for an additiona 75-125hp.
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Duh, it was right there on the time slip. Sometimes I'm sooo stoopid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Thanks Fred.
I need to do more homework on my suspension setup, might need a closer look at yours.
Car has amazing separation instead of rocking backward like most fbodys, but with a radial, it hits the tire too hard and the radial being stiff it springs back about 5-10ft out and then starts hazing the tire. thats killing my 60ft.
I haven't had my car back on the track with the Mickey's. At the track on street tires it was just like like my signature, "no traction till the top of third gear".
When I hole shot it on the street on the drag radials, it plants the tires at first then seems to unload the tires and possibly the rear of the car lifts and smokes the tires bad. This is right when I have to shift second gear and then I just boil the tires all the way through second.
Does the front of my torque arm need to go up or down to improve the tire plant?
I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the suspension science.
Nolan
dont mess with the torque arm right away, play with shock settings or lca angle. if the lca angle is say at the bottom hole, thats gonna hit the tire harder than if its 1 hole up.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
Radials on the street honestly wont hook anyway without using something like skinnies secret sauce or rocket prep (like the street race guys do) but even then its a spin fest.
street hooking is gonna be on a bias ply slick
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installed a mechanical nitrous pressure gauge back at the bottle right where it goes into the line......well now we have an issue
the gauge at the bottle reads almost exactly 100psig lower than the autometer mechanical nitrous pressure gauge that is installed right before the solenoid. so which is right? could this be why when i have 900psig on the autometer gauge after purging i actually have 800psig?
could this be why when i think the bottle is empty it actually isnt and the car is falling off from low nitrous pressure?Attachment 40442
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Do you have an accurate way to measure the temperature of the bottle? I have a graph of temp vs. pressure, or you can find it on the ‘net. There may even be a copy of my graph in the file folder I gave you.
And read this article about the issues created when the bottle temp exceeds the critical point at 97.5°F (1,050 PSI). Hotter is not always better.
http://www.daytona-sensors.com/nitro...-and-tips.html
i infared temped the bottle which was closer on a pt chart to the mechanical gauge at the bottle, not the autometer gauge. 950psig is the magic number.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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Also keep in mind - the nitrous (auto)cools the contents of the bottle as the bottle empties. The liquid leaving the bottle creates a void, liquid in the bottle vaporizes to fill the void, pulling the heat of vaporization out of the liquid in the tank. The pressure of the liquid can drop 100 PSI on a run, which reduces the pressure, which reduces the flow. The heater can’t compensate for that in the 10 seconds it takes to get down the track.
There's a system called the NANO available that gets rid of the heater, and uses high pressures air or nitrogen to maintain a uniform pressure over the full run. Just more cost, weight, and a bit of complication. But solves the problem of tuning for a nitrous flow that falls as you go down the track.
http://www.nano-nitrous.com/
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/08...ressure-games/
Also keep in mind - the nitrous (auto)cools the contents of the bottle as the bottle empties. The liquid leaving the bottle creates a void, liquid in the bottle vaporizes to fill the void, pulling the heat of vaporization out of the liquid in the tank. The pressure of the liquid can drop 100 PSI on a run, which reduces the flow. The heater can’t compensate for that in the 10 seconds it takes to get down the track.
There's a system called the NANO available that gets rid of the heater, and uses high pressures air or nitrogen to maintain a uniform pressure over the full run. Just more cost, weight, and a bit of complication. But solves the problem of tuning for a nitrous flow that falls as you go down the track.
http://www.nano-nitrous.com/
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/08...ressure-games/
i shouldnt need a nano until im spraying well over 300hp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
i have a fairly solid understanding of pressure temperature relationship and changes of state of what is essentially a refrigerant under pressure, hvac background lol.
thats why i redid a bunch of the fittings on the nitrous side, to eliminate points of expansion that could cause a pressure drop and possible freezing when the nitrous is flowing.
the problem lies in the fact that if im running "950psig" on the autometer gauge in the car, and it reads approximately 100psig high, then bottle pressure is actually 850, which is low for the system, that would drop to say 800 or so on a run. thats out of range
i want to be at the optimum bottle pressure. this could explain why the car feels to fall on its face at the end of a run. i have everything rated for 400hp flow currently. so it shouldnt fall off on a 150. also my nitrous guy advise the bottle i thought was empty had 7lbs in it still, that means there was an issue somewhere feeding nitrous.
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The main point was to measure the bottle temp and look up on a chart what the pressure is. That will tell you which gauge is correct (or off the least).
Thereˇs a graph on lt1tech that looks good:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...ure-graph.html
Virtually identical to the one I put together on Excel 25 years ago. Can't find the Excel file, but found a printed sheet in a loose leaf notebook. I can give you a copy, or send you a .pdf.
That 20+ year old bottle could have been flowing poorly. I remember one pull at 2nd St right after I ditched the Mufflex 4” catback where it lost 100 HP on a 300-shot. Lon pulled the straight pipes/turndowns off…. still down 100. Refilled the bottle in a fridge, heated the full bottle up, still down 100. Substituted one of 2nd St bottles, and the 100 HP reappeared. Appeared something went wrong in the bottle valve assembly. Might explain the 7# left in the 20+ year old bottle.
this was 7# left in a brand new nitrous express bottle with .500 orifice lightning bottle valve from lebanon valley. 2 passes and it didnt feel right on the 200 shot 10.15 passQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
. that old bottle i used it all, it was empty
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My car does fairly well on radials with messing around on the street, but I also have a boost ramp for normal street stuff.