Nice! I'm moving back to Minot in a month. Troubleshooting the same problem as you
Nice! I'm moving back to Minot in a month. Troubleshooting the same problem as you
Nice. My only options are dynotune in Watertown, excessive auto sports in Rapid city, or TPIS in Minneapolis. I'm burnt out, I'm at the point where is just want it to drive properly and make a few passes down the track. It's been a long time since it has been drive able, it's close now.
Check out the link below if you haven't already.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#knock_sensor
You can always tune yourself. That's what I do.
Sabin is out of my comfort range when beating on the mullet. If I had a truck/trailer then it could be a possibility.
Lowered the timing across the board & zero'd out burst knock. Then ran the car up to 12-18 lbs with zero knock. Shit feels slow
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I have an appt with TPIS in the cities In a month.
While I am going through the car to make sure there isn't something I missed and making sure it is road worthy for the long trip, I found this tucked away. It's has the same connector for the MAF (which is plugged in). So...I have two connectors for the MAF. Both looked like they were spliced into to stock wiring.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psngwcf62l.jpg
I know this car had a s/c on it for a bit before I bought it. I'm not sure why they would have two connectors for a MAF. I know electrical interface can cause false knock, I'm curious if this is worth looking into. The car never had any problems with the wiring the way it is before the h/c swap.
Also, can a bad opti cause electrical interference/false knock readings? When I bought my Opti, I bought it as a brand new Delco unit. It has a Mitsubishi sensor, but I bought it from All ignition. I didn't buy their brand of opti, it's the one supplied to hem by Delco (it was around $400). I'm learning that a lot of people had issues with their optis. I'm hoping I don't fall into that category, as they assured me it was direct from GM.