None of that will make you faster.
Short TA and embrace the rattle car club
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None of that will make you faster.
Short TA and embrace the rattle car club
Not looking to go faster, looking to fix the problem.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=212
Well that's not expensive lol
I can see mine too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
i don't know they were on the car when i got it, you can see how it sits in the pic below, it's not very low.
Find one used, they pop up every once in awhileQuote:
Originally Posted by Dan
Ya good idea. Maybe I should create an account on that other site [emoji38]
@Formula218 I saw some pics of your car. I honestly think my y pipe will smack the ground. I'll get a pic of the 4x4 tomorrow.
I have both! Electric cut out I'll sell cheaper because it scraped the ground but still works as it should, and a Hooker Aerochamber muffler.
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I don't got any money right now lol if you still have the cutout say next month, what would you want for it :D
PM
So, I'm going to get the mild steel short torque arm from midwest chassis for 375. Of course I'll be watching for a used one until March. Read a few horror stories of people cracking their tail shaft by downshifting on the highway lol. I'm nowhere near that kind of power but you know the opti, well the opti breaks everything!
It also allows me to kill two birds with one stone
Get rid of the rattle box out back and weld an XR1 in the "I" pipe. Or whatever bullet style muffler you'd like. Then have a shop just make you the dual exit at the rear. Won't make it faster but it will sure sound a lot better. IMO flow master mufflers just aren't pleasant.
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And as far as DD lowering Strano springs will work well, bilsteins are a good choice. The drop isn't much but it's better than stock and arguably one of the better handling set ups. According to everyone and their mother my car is "slammed" . It used to have DD duties, no experience with LTs or a OR/Y but my cutout scrapes like all hell. In my defense the shop that mounted it (PO had it done) on a weird angle and it hangs lower that it should. Speed bumps are a pain. I went the "budget route" and picked up some Vogtland springs with KYB AGX for like $600 delivered. The deCrapons were shot and I hated the 4x4 look so at the time this fit my budget. And although it doesn't ride all that great she sure does look good. Just my .02
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Short torque arms are for drag cars. Long are better for handling. You won't crack the tailshaft with a relocation crossmember. Whatever you do, don't buy kyb shocks. Strano will tell you why. I had slp bilsteins and they worked well with bmr lowering springs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
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I have AGX shocks on it now. They were already on the car. They probably got 20k miles or so. I think the backs are turds now.
With the torque arm, I don't do auto x or corner carving. What kind of handling loss are we talking about with a short torque arm?
Edit: Google was being nice. Looks like a full length is on my to buy list.
A short one will transfer your IC back, which means a harder hitting bite with less HP required. It also has a tendency to unload quick and potentially spin tires.
As always, if you have the time, read this one through, lots of tidbits
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=506618
Thanks man. I'll give it a read.Quote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
Kyb=keeps you bouncing, that's what Strano said to me lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Dan
Short torque arm causes back end to unload quicker and harder during braking, which can cause rear traction loss. Long one doesn't prevent it, but improves it and makes it more manageable.
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I can vouch for that lmao. There are 8 settings for them. 1 is kyb, 8 is bone rattling. 2-7 are pointless.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
I think the best option is to go with a long torque arm. I daily drive the car. As much as I want a mwc short arm with drive shaft loop, I think a long arm is the better option.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...689c21204b.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...772dc5e51c.jpg
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fUbeYLTryXk
Haven't gotten a vid of it with my new phone yet so I finally did
i don't think your hangs much lower than mine, i'll snap a pic of mine on lunch. in the pic in my sig i still had the LT so it just had shorty headers and a small shitty Y.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
My car is a 4x4 too.
This is how mine sits, it hangs down pretty far but it doesn't scrape much. I hit my SSRA scoop on stuff a lot more than the exhaust. Once you get the JDM driveway entry angle down scraping isn't too much of a problem.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...40b49e0156.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...5154362a54.jpg
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Damn that is pretty close to the ground. Gonna be a close call with my headers. I'll measure mine, see how far off the ground they are. Thanks for the pics man
I had a great day today.
Started with a deal battery in 40° weather. I get it on the charger, have a friend pick me up for class no big deal. Get home, yay it starts. Heading to school the temp gauge climbs again. Pull over, air in the lines. Don't know how the fuck it got in there. I think it may have been from me opening it up the other day to check the fluid level. I don't fucking know. Going to rebleed and pray to jesus it works. Sick of this shit. About ready to pull the motor
And this is why we acquire a cheap reliable ugly DD.
My winter dd is a train wreck. More dangerous than a model T
I just don't understand how I can have all these cooling problems. It goes from running great to "fuck well now what". Just getting so frustrated now.
Contemplating fixing it and selling it now. Money isnt even an issue. Just hate how no matter what I do, I'm always back here posting another "fucking car overheated". Talk me out of it please :(
Have you used a burping funnel? Just hook up the funnel and let it run, as air comes through it gets pushed out.
I bought one of them when i did my swap and never had any cooling problems. I've completely flushed my system a few times this year just to clean it out from my motor sitting for a couple years in my garage and never had any problems with trapped air. I don't know if LTs are harder to get bled than a LS.
Lt1 alot harder to bleed then ls. Also, @Dan don't open the upper bleeder with the car running, it can actually suck air in as it's on the suck side of the pump
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This is how I bleed it. I fill the radiator to the top with both bleeders open. I put the cap on, fill the remote reservoir to cold full. Then I close the bleeders. I run the car until the thermostat opens up and then shut it off shortly after. I then open up the water pump housing bleeder and let all the air out. I then close it up. After the car has cooled, I check the Coolant level in the radiator. If it's low I open the bleeders again and fill.
Your.gonna sell it because the car has cooling issues .Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
What a pussy. :cry-baby:
Bring it to my.house i will look.at it and u can watch operah.
Car had no issues 3 weeks agodriving 300 miles.
What did u screw up since then?
How are you cconfirming actual ect's? The factory gauge or aftermarket or data log ?
Doubt it. Going by the stock gauge. It just started climbing rapidly. Pulled over and opened up the bleeder on the pump to find air.Quote:
Originally Posted by dawdaw
Car was down on coolant, I don't know why. Hasn't leaked out any coolant. Put it under pressure, and it holds ok. So I topped it off before it started to rain. Going back out in a bit to bleed it.
Might be the water pump leaking during high revs lol. Only explanation I got for it losing coolant. Oil is fine
Well if its not mixing with the oil that is great. It is either being burnt or externally leaking.
How much is it leaking
I'm not finding any leaks. There haven't been any spots where I've parked. It was a little smokey when it warm up a bit ago, but it's barely 50 degrees.
I put probably 1/8 of a gallon or so into the radiator. There was still some air in it, it's all out now though. Just gotta refill because a lot of air and coolant came out.
Where is it going?
Drop it off at my.house i will fix it
You would probably sell it :D
It's fixed. Running cold as hell. No leaks. Just a fluke I guess
Ok now that the car is fixed hopefully, it's time for winter mods.
I'm thinking about removing the A/C. Not because racecar, but because I drained the system last year to in order to get my radiator out and I haven't filled it yet. I don't even know if it worked before because I used it maybe twice when I first bought the car. Fresh air via the ttops are just that much better.
So if I do delete it, is there a way to move the alternator down where the A/C thing was but still being able to retain power steering? Thanks guys
I haven't had A/C for a long time now, it's really not that bad imo. There's a way to move it, search for alternator relocation bracket.
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