What am I going to find. These are the top WP bolts right is on the dry side. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...eb10800dfc.jpg
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What am I going to find. These are the top WP bolts right is on the dry side. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...eb10800dfc.jpg
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Mmmmmm dex mud residueQuote:
Originally Posted by Mrmaroon
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I gave up last night around 5am. I was contemplating cutting the last bolt on the opti so I wouldn't have to remove the damper :D.
My car squirted some oil when it saw this new Delco pump http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a2e676f4b2.jpg
Here are some shots of the old pump
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6ea8ed1fdf.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...fef781b404.jpg
That dry hose ran to the oil cooler and when I put water in it, it filled up the radiator. Both ports on both sides of the WP were clean and the pump had the best bearing on this whole car.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...fc393d7e4e.jpg
Now that it's light outside I can start rapping on the damper. It looks like I got a front main seal in my gasket kit. Wondering how far I should go here. Have a set of pullers at the farm but they're tractor sized.
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Also have a set of LS7 lifters and speed engineering headers and Y pipe on the way. Hitting the intake manifold seal again too.
I ripped out all AIR components. Is easy without AC. I may leave it out. I feel like going this far I should hit the head gaskets too. Just make sure?
I disassembled the assault racing opti and took some photos. I did find some problems with it. I may put that in another post. I want to see the inside of mine first.
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Hi nice project there .I have a question those SE headers, how do they fit ( any issues) with the car all together?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmaroon
Damper shouldn't be that hard to remove. "Rapping" on it could destroy it. Apply rust penetrant between the damper and the hub. Use a 3-jaw puller.
http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg
Are you familiar with Shoebox's site? Has "how to's" for a lot of the stuff you are doing. Including testing the coil. And there's a site where you can get a free download of the shop manual. I think you don't get the traffic you should from people who could help you, with the forum you chose to post it on. Maybe "projects and builds" would have been better.
Thanks @Injuneer Yes I have a hard copy of the service manual now to look at and I used shoeboxes site to test the coil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
I sometimes exaggerate a little. I soaked the damper with Kroil the last 3 days. I clamped a 2x2 to the bottom and hit it the first with the force to set a nail and that broke it loose.
It took me longer to remove the spark plugs, the damper was the easiest part for me. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f4bf377c4c.jpg
After that I removed the opti https://vimeo.com/195130483
The cap and rotor were dry. The rotor and metal plugs looked worn out to me I try and get it in the video.
The bearing is shot though and the spline drive stayed on the camshaft when I pulled the unit.
Here's one of the bearing.
https://vimeo.com/195130591
Here's a shot of the only clean part in this thing, the optical disk. This model of opti has the same internals as the assault racing opti. Which is weird to me, because most google pics show a different inside to most optis.
https://vimeo.com/195130733
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4c63ecfe64.jpg
Seeing this rust on the metal pieces makes me think I should leave the 3 metal shields under the optical disk off on my new one. I'm not sure if they ground the metal screw studs together though
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I fucked up and ordered the 96+ gasket set. The opti gasket is the big kind. The old WP gasket looks good. Opti drive looks leaky. Crank hub looks good. I'm going to do the WP and go pick up another set.
I bought distilled water to run through a few days and flush the system some more. I'm doing new wires/plugs while the opti is off to make sure they are connected. I can move the opti around and get them on right. I will pull them off the plugs when I do headers.
Going to put a set of V-powers in again. Gapped to .050.
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If you have to take apart an alternator for some reason...
Mark the case before you take it apart.
Take the top cover and pulley off, from the stator and bottom metal piece. Don't try and pry the stator from the back shield.
The brushes pop out when you remove the halves. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...089f69519f.jpg
To get them in again push the top brush and spring in then insert a wire through this hole. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...315b68bbcb.jpg
It will come out a hole in the back. When you put the halves together you can pull it through and the springs pop out again.
This is the second time I've had to take one apart, its easy once you've done it.
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Hoping it works if I leave the AIR tubes in the stock manifolds w/ check valves attached. I removed everything else AIR related.
Here's a few shots of the seals.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...3c88a2b20b.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0b85627d4e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0db7b169cc.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d0671f2651.jpg
Not going to do timing cover until I do a cam.
I found this vacuum port? On my AIR hoses. It didn't have any vacuum line attached that I can find. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...82093cc6cd.jpg
Put in new plugs and wires almost ready to button her up!
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