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I almost went with the zxe's, but they were a little ricey and like double what the Night Breakers cost.
As for the headlights, they are NOT free form. I had it stuck in my brain when I typed this up earlier, but they were cheaper, had solid reviews, and came with adapters. Whether they work or not will be a different story.
These are free forms:
http://www.dirtyparts.com/products/008888101.jpg
Thank you for the kind words. I'll probably throw em in tomorrow while the bumper gets put back on.
Cant wait till u post some pics of them lit up...
LTXtech.com is my Drug...
Nothing too useful to show as I didn't take any pics. The headlights look 100x better and I didn't install them in the car, just the headlights for now. Going in later today though. The Hella bulbs look pretty good, so they will make nice spares. The housings came with a little crappy harness for the back of the bulb, so I cut that apart and identified which wires do what on the stock H4666 harness. Wired, soldered, re-loomed, and taped up the new H4 to H4666 conversion harness and it looks great.
The fog lights were a little different than the former aftermarket fogs I installed years ago. First, in 07 or whatever, I bought Blinglights 93-97 fog lights with a red halo and we had to drill the brackets in a few spots to make it work. It was also horribly hardwired into the stock wiring and the LED halos weren't even hooked up. The new lights are blinglights as well, but instead of red halos they are white, slightly smaller, and are actually an OEM replacement. I had to slightly bend the fog light brackets so I could bolt them in properly, but they came with a full relayed harness, switches, etc. to install them in a car that may not have had fog lights.
This time around, the new fogs will have nice weatherproof connectors and the LED Halos will be wired into the parking light circuits. It's going to look amazing.
The bulbs look like a PITA to replace in both headlight and fogs, so I am hoping the Osram bulbs last awhile lol.
As for the rest of the car, I plan on bringing it home tonight. Slight vibration coming from the rear which prevented us from the dyno, but it did drive down the road under it's own power. Checking out the pinion angle tonight among other things.
I understand now why Frank says Protorque is so different from the rest of the converters out there. It's a 3400 but flashes higher and is pretty damn loose, which is exactly what I wanted haha. @Cahall wasn't sold on my idea of the 3400 going into my 99% street driven car, but he knows I'm not right :laugh: and came around. Can't wait to get this bastard buttoned up in my driveway.
Working on a day/time for tint as well. Needs a GOOD detail and then I can throw some dip on it as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=277wKEk75yY
After a couple mile drive (heading to the dyno), one of the preformed rad hoses sprung a leak and the waterpump died (fuse). Gonna replace the hoses first and then figure out what's up with the waterpump. It was working just fine. May be related to the dummy LED setup that turns on when the pump grounds out.
Anyway, limped the car to the dyno stall, still need to install the new lights, bumper cover, and some odds and ends. Took the video above before we left for the dyno. There's also a hard spot in the steering due to bolts in the steering shaft. The shaft was taken apart when the rag joint eliminator was installed. The stainless bolts rub on one of the primaries.
All replacement hardware on the car is stainless and new, otherwise. Looks great and can't wait until it's done.
Man... it sounds fantastic!
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
Thank you! It does sound great and runs strong.
Make a ride down to our C&C
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
So long story short, the shop I had it at had a falling out internally a few months back. I got strung along and pulled out. While the car is still a ways away from being streetable, it's closer than ever. I talked to @SSlowBoat regarding some overheating issues I was experiencing and he gave some good advice. Unfortunately that was while it was on the dyno and I had to resolve the issue a week later in my driveway.
The issue was that the system was never properly bled. The mickey mouse fix was to use a tstat retainer and when that didn't work, they wanted to install an in-line fill cap. Took it home, jacked it up as high as the front end and my HF floor jack would go, and let it eat. One good thing is that the shop did force water and air through the heater core and all kinds of crap came out. The car never blew hot air in the winter prior to going down, so now there's a chance lol. It now stays nice and cold. The fans now have a controller/rad sensor versus being controlled by PCM. They draw a lot of power though, so I need to address that and bump the fans up a little so they don't turn on at 150 lol. Also, threw out the retainer in favor of a 160* hypertech. Ran the car for 20+ minutes and it never got about 160*. Too cold, I know, but nice to know it's not overheating.
I have a couple small things to address and then it's tune time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilYUrGxGFHY
It's been in my driveway for a week and I only worked on it for an hour and 15 min. WTF! No more time to do anything until next week. A friend of mine said this yesterday and I completely agree: when we were young, we had no money and all the time. Now we're older and have all the money but no time.
Glad it worked out, happy to see that car together. It sounds great!Quote:
Originally Posted by harner
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So there is nothing to turn fans off at highway speeds? Fix that IMO.