What gives? If I put the header in the flange is like twisted over the drivers head.... Why is the collector not straight back? What am I doing wrong? Thanks....
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What gives? If I put the header in the flange is like twisted over the drivers head.... Why is the collector not straight back? What am I doing wrong? Thanks....
Got any pics of the problem area?
I got it in from the bottom lol. No way it was going in the top
That is the easiest side to install it slid right in . pull the coolant senser and slide it in
yes pull the coolant sensor or you will be buying a new one lol
Yep didn't pull mine when I put the PS lts on and broke it.
I thought drivers went from top. Oops. I did take the coolant sensor out lmao I saw people with it broken. Install was a bitch. I had 1 bolt broken but it was easy to use a stud extractor on. I got stuck on tightening spark plugs and getting certain bolts tightened.
Also, the clamps I got with my headers sucked. Two.broke.....
I got it running. I have a flashing cel. I probabu didn't tighten a spark plug wire.... They are such a BITCH to get to with headers
I installed both of mine from the top(pacesetter race lts) just did the motor mounts at the same time. Took one loose, jacked her up till she was in the body, then headers slid in(not without a fight tho lol) I pulled my plugs but not the coolant sensor. No problems :)
My lt1 shaft is hitting the headers and pass side is hitting the k member or whatever.
My misfire.... Apparently I forgot to put cyl 5s plug wire on? Lol
@LPP
2 of the 3 clamps had like a thing to go into a hangar... Not sure why I had them. Also, one clamp broke lol.
Y pipe comes close to my umi torque arm relocation xmember ad well. Y pipe doesn't bolt to the normal hangar off the trans either
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...f629c38cb2.jpg it fits you will have to shave the rubber mount a bit though
Interesting. I'll have to look again
Here they are installed.
http://i.imgur.com/gBgplQu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VmXB9Er.jpg
Just got my lpp's last week. Did you have to dent the drivers header to clear the steering shaft?
I didn't dent it yet. I might try putting in an LS shaft to see if that helps or grind down the stock shaft. I don't want to dent the header :(
dang I had to dent the crap out of my ebay header to get it to clear the steering shaft. that's why I bought the lpps hope I get lucky and have enough clearance. with my ebay headers I couldn't even get the shaft back on the car so I had no choice but to dent it like 1/2 inch. that was after I installed brand new polly mounts hoping it would help but they didn't.
I've heard you can loosen the colum and slide it over a bit but i have not tried it
These are larger tube headers , i bet if tgey were smaller tube headers they would clear right there
the ebay set is the lpp knockoffs I guess. I think obx they are stepped 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 just like the lpp's. it will be interesting to compare them side by side when I get around to swapping them out as they look very similar.
Attachment 30053
ebay headers
yeah i bet the step is hitting the shaft. Im afraid to drive it now lol. Gotta pull it off and start grinding away or modify my LS1 shaft to bolt on.
does the ls1 shaft actually give more clearance?
not 100% sure but I don't think it does in the area we are having trouble. I think it only gives more clearance by eliminating the rag joint but I have tons of room down there. looking at pictures it looks the same to me at the top were it connects to the steering shaft and that's where my ebay headers hit
I have a local club member with a rag joint eliminator that he can give me. Might just do that, and grind down the shaft a bit.
Pull the bolts out of the column to firewall junction and have some pry the knuckle over then you tighten up the bolts. It should get you to clear, otherwise BFH time to shiny headers.
The steering shaft was the only issue I had with my LPP header install. Got a ls shaft and still had to grind on it. Didnt have to dent those pretty headers tho. [emoji4]
Yeah my motor mounts may be fatigued causing it to hit on the pass side. i didnt have time to do the mounts (i bought prothane ones). so hopefully one day I will.
It is RASPY as hell. Will 1 cat be good enough to tone down the rasp? (i need a cat to look good for NJ lol)
Also, what are good stainless band clamps? Im not sure if @LPP will give me a new clamp. The one on the drivers collector broke while tightening it (lol).
I went down to advanced auto and bought 3 inch stainless band clamps for 10Attachment 30060 bucks
As far as the clamps go just do what @97firehawk did. Auto zone & advance carry them. The wider the better. The shop that hung my borla welded it up so luckily i still had my clamps.
When i need to go thru inspection im just going to band clamp a bullet cat in so i can take it right back out afterwards.
Going to check them out...
going to buy 2 of them lol.
Launch video
http://<a href="https://www.youtube....vJ4ileSKqw</a>
Idle video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86OOdRTZyHI
Way too raspy for me. I need a kitty kat in there.
Is 1 cat in the Y good enough to stop the rasp? (im going cat because NJ likes to see a cat down there for inspection)
A cat could help a lot these cars get really raspy with certain exhaust systems . If un cap my borla it sounds pretty much open headers but it gets crazy raspy so I've been keeping it capped off and running it through the muffler it sounds much better and no rasp at all but i don't like it at certain cruise speeds
Hopefully the cat will do it :)
So I have been doing some research...
apparently the Y-pipe causes the rasp?
isnt the gmmg exhaust just glass packs without the fiberglass?
thinking a muffler change might help the rasp more than a cat.
There are videos of guys with headers, catted y and GMMG and it sounds perfect. big threads on ls1tech about it also. there are also threads where going with a Magnaflow Y transition style ypipe fixes it for LT1 guys.
I am going to get a cat put in and see where that puts me at as far as sound goes.