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First LT1 engine build finishing up trying to get it on the road. Anyone have opinions on which subframes? I was looking at BMR's boxed set, but also saw SLPs weldin kit with the additional cross bracing. I live in Lubbock so i was going to just pick up a set of BMRs at TSP but didn't know if the crossbracing is worth extra $100. Wanted to go with true duals eventually.
Cammed car with usual bolt ons, A4, 3200 stall. DD with some track duty on weekends.
I have the tubular BMRs,welded in and fit like a glove.
I have the UMI boxed SFC and love them. They show out the bottom a little but it goes with my red on black theme.
Weld in Tubular Edelbrock's on both cars. Fit perfectly, work great.
I looked up the styles from all you that replied and it seems like, both styles work fine, boxed or tubular. No one so far has the extra cross bar. I will look around for a deal on either boxed or tubular and just go with it.
What would be a good next suspention/rear chassis upgrade? I was thinking TA what do you guys think?
I have a set of Don Goetz SFC's and they're great. They're the diamond style and tuck very well.
I have a set of the umi 3 points bolt ins, they hang down a little but aren't as low as the collector on the headers. I like to push the car through corners, so I wanted the extra bracing. After going for a ride after putting them on, I couldn't believe how much the car flexed before, and how much more solid the car feels now being push through turns.
That makes sense the extra cross bracing helps in road racing, or auto cross. For a straight line Drag car, (wanabe) the cross bracing will just get in the way of exhaust? And boxes or tubes are about the same? Are the weld in kits significantly stronger than the bolt ins? I don't have a welding, I'd have to pay extra for that, for my application would i see any difference?
You definitely want to have them welded in.
I have the UMI tubular bolt in type for ease of install. Then had them welded up. Fit perfect and tuck up. You never see them.