So I've been letting the cat out of the bag........

This was the first tuning done on wastegates only, 12 PSI:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9acd121897.jpg

Unfortunately, the starter broke as he was going to start shoving more boost into it. Necessitated a "Tow Truck Tuesday" venture sadly.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4a79d2855b.jpg

Fortunately Ben @CALL911 was kind enough to lend me his pole barn space to fix it and tidy up a couple of things (two very minor turbo sump leaks and a turbo coolant line that needed tightening).

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b4c69fb438.jpg

I'm on vacation tomorrow through Friday next week. I'll have the car fixed and going by Saturday at the latest whether I have to drop the turbo to do the starter or not. I'm REALLY encouraged at the potential of this little 377 motor with the Tony Mamo top end stuff on it given it broke 800 RWHP at only 12 PSI via wastegates (boost controller would have brought torque up and made the power come on harder). My goal was 1000+ or bust but after running some numbers I think it just might not make it there as it sits. I'm expecting realistically to be somewhere around 950 RWHP at 18-20 PSI when it's all said and done.

Impressive to say the least. I'm not familiar with the build, can you post a quick "mod list"? 800whp in a light C5 has to be sketchy lol

Wow you know that is a very nice vet. Let alone some nice hp as well.

Sent from my HP Pro Slate 8 using Tapatalk

So basic mod list:

Same 377 LS3 forged shortblock as it had in it before I sold it.

NEW Stuff:
Mamo Motorsports 235 NFI (Nitrous/Forced Induction) heads, hollow valves, Yella Terra 10mm stud rockers
Mamo Motorsports custom cam, 223/224, .610/.603, 118 LSA (NEGATIVE 12° overlap)
Manton custom 3 piece pushrods, two different sizes, because.......
Johnson 2116LSR Limited Travel linkbar lifters
Mamo Motorsports Ported Melling 10296 oil pump
Mamo Motorsports custom ATI Balancer

The above new list was NOT cheap but it working admirably.

I stepped down from the FAST 102 stuff that was on the car when I got it back, and went to a LS2 Manifold and Throttlebody which Mamo ported both of, and went back to a 97-98 Fuel Rail setup. I put larger injector hats on to space the rail up so it would clear the manifold, then made some spacers to be able to bolt the rail down at the proper height. Fuel system will be the limiting factor on power output I believe.

Rest of the car:

Still has the APS TT kit. LG Motorsports 70 lb/min turbo's have been added by the interim owner and I fabbed up nice inlets that aren't optimal, but are working. SMALL K&N filters, conical with a 4" base tapering to 2" up at the tip, 7" long. I also relocated the oil return from the valve cover to the bottom drivers side of the timing cover. A friend fabricated sumps for the turbo's. Then I ditched the APS PCV check valve and the rest of the PCV system, and went with a single vented breather tank with a -10 coming off each valve cover. The car is burning absolutely clean at 12 PSI according to my tuner, whereas before it would smoke pretty good (which I attribute to lack of crankcase evac).

Monster twin disc clutch, 2008 ZO6 TR6060 and rear end/cradle round out the driveline.


If this had been a few years ago, I'd call it a day on the wastegates and let it live an easy life at just over 800 RWHP. But it's all or nothing now.

I've got a build thread over on Corvette Forum with a bunch of pics if you want to see them. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...an-update.html

Oh, and on the plus side, the Nagasaki Noisy Boy did NOT have to come out to get the starter out. That was a huge win today.

The short ear on the starter broke off. I'm feeling VERY lucky we didn't break the ear off the block trying to start the car. If the starter had managed to hook, it probably would have. I'm picking up an LS3 starter which is smaller, has a full height inner ear, and is only $125 later today.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fastbird

Oh, and on the plus side, the Nagasaki Noisy Boy did NOT have to come out to get the starter out. That was a huge win today.

The short ear on the starter broke off. I'm feeling VERY lucky we didn't break the ear off the block trying to start the car. If the starter had managed to hook, it probably would have. I'm picking up an LS3 starter which is smaller, has a full height inner ear, and is only $125 later today.

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Two nice wins and Congrates on those big numbers!

Well, so much for using the LS3 full height ear starter. I have too much pinch between a guide pin boss on the block and the turbine housing to slip the extra material at the head of the starter through. Back to the short ear LS1 style starter unfortunately.

So this turned into a VERY interesting situation. Put the new starter into the car, went with a stock LS1 starter.....and no start. Shifted the starter a little, and tried again. Bang. Starter ear broke off. I'm like WTF?!?!?! This thing is acting hydrolocked but it's not down on coolant at all.

So I start pulling plugs. #1 and #2 just DUMPED when I got the plugs out. METHANOL?!?!?!?!? Ok, now that's weird. Got all the plugs out, and it was almost exclusively concentrated in #1 and 2. Motor was able to rotate over without any weird sounds, but I went home rather frustrated and dejected at the thought of the motor being damaged.

Couldn't take it after 20 minutes at home, so I went back out and got a starter and headed back to Ben's with it and my compression gauge. To my EXTREME pleasure, everything checked out. So the next day I put it all back together and this resulted:

https://youtu.be/dJJh1Ix8qto

Next up was to double check the methanol system. I want it working for now and had already put the new pump in, but rest assured, my end goal at this point is some 1700cc Injectors and a swap to E85 and to completely ditch the methanol all together. So working with Julio at Alky Control, we went over some things to check, primarily the MAP sensor output at baro (I got 2.24v, maybe a tad on the low side but in the area expected) and the PAC controller turn on voltage (was at 2.5v so only about 1.5-2lbs boost so I bumped it to 3.0v or right at about 5lbs boost turn on now). Unfortunately I had forgotten where the PAC controller mounts......so I ended up with this:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...11b1142193.jpg

Got it figured out and all put back together. So Thursday last week, the 5th, I got it all done and actually drove the car under it's own power. And it was SOOOOO nice. Still needs some idle tuning (idling around 11.2 AFR), driveability for not having been done wasn't bad at all, and needs some more BOOST!!!!! Waiting on the tuner to settle down from LS Fest before he's going to get back to mine now.

As far as the Alky Control system is concerned, everything has checked out ok and tested good. The ONLY thing I can surmise is somehow because the old pump was leaking at the head, it stayed spun up after the last dyno run and flooded the motor after it was shut off. Makes some sense because my battery when I picked the car up was stone cold dead too.

Well I'm glad it wasnt catastrophic man. Phewwww.

LTXtech.com is my drug...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by popo8

Well I'm glad it wasnt catastrophic man. Phewwww.

LTXtech.com is my drug...

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Yeah Larry, I was sweating bullets. My job change took away my copious slush fund (I keep telling myself "it's for the better, it's for the better", lol) and I was REALLY worried about how long it was going to have to sit if it was crunked.

I'm just waiting for a slot at the tuner to open up now. It's REALLY nice just cracking the key, hearing the starter for about 2-3 revs, then BOOM she lights off and just purrs. I'm grinning just thinking about it.