Convertible Suspension info help.

I want to start off by saying I am new to this forum. And new to convertible f-bodys. But I am mechanically inclined.

What is the main differences I am going to run into when trying to find suspension for my 94 Z28. I know a lot of sites and vendors say not for convertibles, but why? What are the main differences?

Also what is out there for these topless wonders.

Mine is a daily driven street car. I'm looking for a mild drop to take away the fender gap and I want to eliminate as much body roll as possible and still have a good "soft" ride.

Thanks for any advice or info!http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9034968dcd.jpg


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I think you will find the main difference is the sheet metal x-brace at the front of the car. That will interfere with subframe connectors. Spring rates, possibly shock calibration may be slightly different. But most other suspension components are identical - sway bars, rear lower control arms, LCA relocation brackets, torque arm, K-member, upper/lower front control arms, etc.

And, a buddy of mine deleted the sheet metal brace, added subframe connectors, and had minimum issues, eventually taking the engine over 1,000 HP. Of course by then it had a full cage, so that tends to stiffen the chassis substantially. He also used my coupe rear springs (traded them for his Eibach Drag Launch springs). We really found very little actual difference between the cars. There was additional sheet metal stiffening at the rear of the convertible, but it was all incorporated seamlessly into the unibody structure. For example, when hammering the inner fenders for large diameter/width slicks, we ran into a stiffener behind the inner fender sheet metal.... just took a bigger hammer.

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Originally Posted by Injuneer

I think you will find the main difference is the sheet metal x-brace at the front of the car. That will interfere with subframe connectors. Spring rates, possibly shock calibration may be slightly different. But most other suspension components are identical - sway bars, rear lower control arms, LCA relocation brackets, torque arm, K-member, upper/lower front control arms, etc.

And, a buddy of mine deleted the sheet metal brace, added subframe connectors, and had minimum issues, eventually taking the engine over 1,000 HP. Of course by then it had a full cage, so that tends to stiffen the chassis substantially. He also used my coupe rear springs (traded them for his Eibach Drag Launch springs). We really found very little actual difference between the cars. There was additional sheet metal stiffening at the rear of the convertible, but it was all incorporated seamlessly into the unibody structure. For example, when hammering the inner fenders for large diameter/width slicks, we ran into a stiffener behind the inner fender sheet metal.... just took a bigger hammer.

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When all else fails, get a bigger hammer! Lol.

Thank you. I will look into the sheet metal x-brace and see what I can do with it.


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@blackbirdws6 can fill you in as well

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The x brace under the car is really the only difference aside from what Inguneer added. Everything else is the same however when it comes to subframe connectors, you need to purchase them specifically. I run Kenny Brown double diamond SFCs which were the single best improvement made you help stiffen up the chassis. The shock tower bar was rather useless IMO but then again, I'm not autocrossing the car to make a scientific argument.

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Originally Posted by blackbirdws6

The x brace under the car is really the only difference aside from what Inguneer added. Everything else is the same however when it comes to subframe connectors, you need to purchase them specifically. I run Kenny Brown double diamond SFCs which were the single best improvement made you help stiffen up the chassis. The shock tower bar was rather useless IMO but then again, I'm not autocrossing the car to make a scientific argument.

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Good to know. So Kenny brown sfcs it is


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My car had bolt in sub frame connectors when I bought it, drove it for 6 years or so with them and then I welded in my own design copying what Midwest Chassis sells (1x2 tubing). I also welded the bolt ins at the same time - this was a HUGE difference in my car. I welded all seams that I could and anywhere the 1x2 tubing touched sheet metal.

Suspension wise, when you buy springs I would recommend a solid rate spring instead of variable. my car came with Eibach pro-kit and while it looked good, it would bottom out all the time in the back, worse with more weight. Strano springs were much better for me.

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Originally Posted by Pewter94

Good to know. So Kenny brown sfcs it is


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I should mention they are probably not made anymore (my bad) but any current vendors product with a similar configuration would be ideal. Looking at UMI's site shows what I'm talking about. Check the 2 bottom ones offering a bolt in or weld in version.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...Path=7_113_264

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackbirdws6

I should mention they are probably not made anymore (my bad) but any current vendors product with a similar configuration would be ideal. Looking at UMI's site shows what I'm talking about. Check the 2 bottom ones offering a bolt in or weld in version.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...Path=7_113_264

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I figured that out. I really like the look of the umi's too.


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Did you buy a suspension yet? In a similar situation for my convertible trans am.