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I need a little more "push" on my clutch setup. My master cyl works fine for my needs and I don't want to replace it with an adj one for a few 100 bucks. I've tossed around the idea of making the slave cyl rod adj or just make a longer one. I have a hard time putting the car in rev with the motor running.
Any input on this idea?
"Push" meaning what? An adjustable MC does nothing for performance. All it does is allow you to adjust the pedal up or down, so that when it's pressed to the floor the clutch is just past fully disengaged and you're not wasting throw on it. If you want to push more fluid (and hence a shorter throw which is why you'd need the adjustment in the first place), you need an aftermarket MC with a larger bore.
I put a 6 speed in my 91 RS, I don't have much trouble shifting at WOT, but it's a task getting it into reverse with the motor running. I uaslly just start in whith the clutch pushed in and already in reverse if I'm going to back up.
It wouldn't take much to get it where it needs to be.
So what hydraulics are you using? LT1 I assume? Is it a GM or parts store MC?
Yes all GM LT1 stuff.
When you say trouble getting into reverse, describe the trouble. Is it hard to get over into gear? Or does it go into the gate just fine and just fight you going into gear. I'm asking because it could simply be an issue of fighting the reverse lockout solenoid rather than a clutch issue.
I've got the rev lockout wired up to the break light switch. So when I press the break it disengages the lockout and slides over easy. With the motor running you have to shove it up pretty hard and kinda wait till it goes in.
Have you checked to see if the clutch is dragging by putting the car in the air and testing in and out of gear?
No I haven't.
I'd check that. Just put the back wheels up, put it in first with the clutch pedal down. If they spin, then you know you're dragging. If not, you're most likely ok, but check reverse anyway.