LT1 Full 383 rebuild

Building a 383 out of an LT1 I pulled from a 95 formula. I was looking for any tips and or information on doing so. i've done rebuilds but never performance or to a different displacement. I was looking to just get a basic rebuild stroker kit. If anyone could recommend rebuild klits/rotating assemblies that would be awesome. I'm really very new to this and have no idea what im doing, but hope to learn as I go. If I knew more info my questions would be more pointed. Any and all help is appreciated, thanks.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet This is the rotating assembly I think I am going with. Now I just need a gasket kit for it.

@American-Powerhouse

LTXtech.com is my DRUG!

Thank you for the mention!

Caleb (cheronobyl) I am a Probe distributor and sell their quality rotating assemblies.
I'd be happy to quote you a price.

I can also get you gaskets as well.

I will send you a PM.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cheronobyl

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet This is the rotating assembly I think I am going with. Now I just need a gasket kit for it.

---

You really need to discuss the application and HP details to home in on the correct rotating assembly. Will the engine be normally aspirated, or use a power adder - S/C, tutro(s), nitrous? What kind of HP and RPM levels?

I have the scat 383 rotating assembly. Not running yet but i thing its the best bang for your bucm

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

As far as piston volume (-5, -10, -12, -16, -22, -30 cc) you need to get with the engine builder and discuss what compression ratio woun want/need to end up at. Chamber volume and deck ht are important as well as head gasket thickness.

Compression ratio and cam selection go hand in had as well as gear, weight, stall, shift RPM, drivability, emissions, etc.

It is best to talk to someone and get a good game plan about what you want to end up with (gear, stall, emissions, drivability, cam wise) to know what compression ratio you need to work with everything.

Piston volume and chamber size are the two major contributors on compression and you can fine tune it with head gasket thickness and deck ht but it nees to be pretty close based on chamber size and piston volume.

Lloyd

I have a message out to @American-Powerhouse, but I'l put my plan in here as well. The engine is going into a 1989 Pontiac Firebird (3rd Gen F-body). It will be connected to a T56 manual transmission. It will be one of my daily drivers, so it needs to be streetable. I don't drive much being a student so having a monster car isn't much of an issue. I want it to be able to pass emissions if possible, but I can get around them if necessary (Classic Rod designation in Nevada). I plan to have the block bored 30 over, but beyond that I do need some help.

They will probably steer you towads about 11.0-11.5 to 1 compression and a cam in the 224/230 112 LSA range if you need to pass emissions or something in the 228/236 up to 236/244 110LSA rabge cam for a NON emissions set up depending on the idle quality, choppiness of idle, shift RPM, driving style, etc you are wanting.


If you are going back with stock GM alu LT1 heads with a 54-56 cc chamber, a piston in the -10 to -13 cc range will be what you want depending on exact chamber size, deck hta nd head gasket thickness.

As far as quality of pistons, rods and crank, I would get a forged piston like in the $500-600 price range, just about any $250-300 aftermarket rod will work fine but you cant spend too much $$$ on bottom end parts either so if you have the extra coin, go ahead. I would get a forged crank (not cast).

I am sure that who ever you are getting the bottom end parts from will let you know the price difference and quality difference in the different pistons, crank and rods.

Lloyd