emergency! how to seal steam pipes!

man, went ahead and got the 5 dollar 4 new chevy steam pipe seals.

put them on, got the banjo bolts tight, car is 100% back together (hg replacement) started to fill the coolant, and its POURING out of the drivers side steam pipe, on BOTH ends of the bolt, neither washer on the drivers side is doing anything at all.

what to do? car is to be tuned thursday morning. trying t desperately to get back to my family for thanksgiving in KY.

should i use thread sealant on the banjo bolts?

im probably gonna do THAT and double gasket both sides of the banjo bolt.


and then the big one: what if the head is stripped? dont think it is, didnt see ANY metal specs / shavings on the banjo bolt when i took it out and i tried my best to see the hole in the head with a mirror from the side and the threads LOOKED fine.

the passenger side isnt leaking, i dunno if its just because its working properly or if its because the drivers side fills up with water first ....

ugh. i have a nitrous kit that is bolted down to the top of the fuel rail on the drivers side along with an fmu on the shock tower. it is the BIGGEST pain in the ass to get a ractheting wrench back there.

that and i want to cry. haha.

I would say the seals were torn, not installed correctly or the bolt isn't tight enough.

man with the aluminum head i didnt wanna go too tight, id guess i was around 20ish ft lbs when it was getting tight.

i dont think the seals were torn i took them off and they looked fine to me.

what is the "correct" way to install them? i put one on each side of the pipe, with the banjo bolt through that assembly... same as it came off.

SNug those bolts down good. I saw the same thing happen on a buddies car, he thought he got them tight enough, and I came in and snugged them up and they quit leaking.

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Originally Posted by Fastbird

SNug those bolts down good. I saw the same thing happen on a buddies car, he thought he got them tight enough, and I came in and snugged them up and they quit leaking.

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that's cause were not all monsters such as yourself haha

Go to vato zone or oreily's and pick up two oil pan drainplug gaskets. 2.99 a peice and I heard they work great. Thats what I plan to do. Glad to hear your getting it back on the road. I still have to put my motor together:frustrated:

GM parts should work the best!!! Try and snug them down a bit more!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AChotrod

GM parts should work the best!!! Try and snug them down a bit more!!!

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Exactly. I think the proper torque spec is 30 ft. lb., except its impossible to get a torque wrench on them. Just crank them down good.

well... went around and bought more seals todays, said fuck it, bought the npt fittings, installed them. here are the results...

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...h_itstarts.jpg

lots of leaky header gasket noise (what to use for hooker long tubes?????), open exhuast, and possibly some rocker arm on the valve cover noise.

good oil psi, no misses, etc.

doesnt matter.

cyl 1 has 30psi.

/kills self.