valvetrain recommendation and part numbers needed asap

help needed on questions and suggestions
tried posting this in another forum but i'm not getting clear answers on it,,,,,
i'm getting ready to purchase lifters / rockers/ guideplates/ and prs

ive decided on ls7 lifters just need to find who has the best price
the push rods i cant do until i can get them measured
the other 2 are the tough ones i guess

i was pushing around the idea of going up to 1.7 but am getting mixed answers,,,,,
some are telling me they will not fit and give me enough clearance which i dont understand since i know others have run them...but on the other hand not sure either if they would be to much for my car either....
the cam i have is a 236/242 110 lsa cam and with the 1.6 rrs i currently have i'm at 608/576 lift so with the 1.7 it would put me at about 646/612.....so not sure if that would just be to much or not even needed on my 383

next i'm hearing mixed stuff on what guideplates i will need to run...some sy gmpp will work others say they wont nd the same goes for trickflows....also some say flat some say raised...any input on what works with pn would be great on these


also what is the pn for the arp 7/16 studs for an lt1

I would be worried about Piston To Valve clearance pushing a 1.7 rocker. All depending on what heads, pistons and heads you have. As well how much the decks have been milled.

Here you go bud.

I have a set of 1.65 rockers for sale :) (I had to plug em) Should give you a slight boost. No guarantee's your valve wont kiss the piston though. More research is needed there. Rockers

As for your guide plates I always run TFS guide plates. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30400624-8/ Make sure that you take a die grinder and take off 1/16-1/8" off the bottom of the U portion of the guide plate where the push rod rides. I have seen 2 cases where the push rod gets pushed out of the lifter cup from riding on the bottom of the guide. I have run these on numerous builds and so have friends. I do HIGHLY recommend grinding the guide plate down.

Here are your 7/16" rocker studs. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-7103/

For LS7 lifters, check you local chevy dealer. My dealer here had them about $10 cheaper than Summit or Jegs.

You need to use a check spring in place of your real valve spring so that when you check push rod length the lifter does not collapse. That or take apart an old lifter and make it solid.

EDIT: Make sure when you order you order chromoly hardened pushrods. As if you don't run a hardened set the guide plates will wear though the pu

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spcearle

help needed on questions and suggestions
tried posting this in another forum but i'm not getting clear answers on it,,,,,
i'm getting ready to purchase lifters / rockers/ guideplates/ and prs

ive decided on ls7 lifters just need to find who has the best price
the push rods i cant do until i can get them measured
the other 2 are the tough ones i guess

i was pushing around the idea of going up to 1.7 but am getting mixed answers,,,,,
some are telling me they will not fit and give me enough clearance which i dont understand since i know others have run them...but on the other hand not sure either if they would be to much for my car either....
the cam i have is a 236/242 110 lsa cam and with the 1.6 rrs i currently have i'm at 608/576 lift so with the 1.7 it would put me at about 646/612.....so not sure if that would just be to much or not even needed on my 383

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You would have to make sure your springs can handle that kind of lift. The rate of lift would be much higher as well. You'd need some pretty stout pushrods too. What heads are you running? What do your heads flow? If they peak flow at say .550" lift, then opening the valve FAR beyond that is somewhat pointless. You'd need a spring with about 160lbs closed and 400ish open minimum. Your cam has a lobe lift of .380"/.360" with 236/242 duration so it isn't anything radical requiring crazy parts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spcearle

next i'm hearing mixed stuff on what guideplates i will need to run...some sy gmpp will work others say they wont nd the same goes for trickflows....also some say flat some say raised...any input on what works with pn would be great on these


also what is the pn for the arp 7/16 studs for an lt1

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As far as piston to valve clearance, increasing the lift through a rocker change effects it. BUT p-to-v clearance is WAYYYYYYYYY more dependent on the duration AND the LSA. When the pistons are coming close to making contact the valves are only open .10-.15" or so.

the heads are pretty much stock afr195 lt4s....the springs were upgraded to springs that came with my cam kit so i know afrs are good till 600 lift so id guess but cant say for certain mine would handle as much if not more

that was one of next steps already planned to either pull one of the lifters apart to convert it to solid once i get info on that or try to go to my local engine builder who stroked my block a few years back and see if he has one and a pr measuring tool

You don't need to run a solid lifter to check p-to-v clearance. Just install a set of checking springs. They are like $9.99. The hydraulic lifter won't compress one bit with a weak checking spring in there. There's a big difference between .600" lift and .646" of lift. The springs might be okay to run to .600" but they might coil bind at .660" or so, and you'd be dangerously close to that. If I knew my valve was going to be open to nearly .650" left, I would want a spring built to handle something at least .675".

i'm trying to track down now which springs i put into this that came with the cam so i can know what i have to work with....the cam card just says springs provided and i know they were a good upgrade from the ones that came with my heads but thats all i know right now

You have to take into account the proper install height too. That is CRITICAL!!!!!!!!!!!! If you get a spring that is supposed to be installed at 1.850" and you slap it in there and it's sitting at 1.800" it might bind up at the very first high-rpm pull. I valvespring height checker is another tool that should be in your drawer.

Get these tools right now:

checking springs: $6.88

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66793/

Adjustable pushrod: $15.95

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67560/

Valvespring height checker: $48.88

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66902/

well hopefully i'll have eveything sorted out with parts or at least for now....got a good deal on new parts icouldnt pass up so i went with what i know is working size wise....decided to go with 1.6 rockers like i've been running because i can be certain my springs will support them fine without having to swap those to...
i went with ls7 lifters/tf guides/ arp 7/16 rocker studs and scorpion plantinum series nsa rockers......now all i'll have to do is pull a lifter apart to turn it into a solid so i can mock up and get a good measurement for what push rods to order and then order those new plugs and intake gaskets...
hopefully all is atleast as good as its been for the last 5 yrs and maybe i'll even get lucky and discover something was off and it will wake te motor back up

ty everyone for your help and input

Well found a few probs during tear down.....#2intake lifter was in pieces so it looks like for the last 5 yrs and prob 15000 miles or so that cylinder was messed up.... From the looks of the bottoms of the rockers on the pass side it looks like the rockers were moving all over the damn place.... Now it's time to play let's measure pushrod game and get that number so I can order pushrods.... One quick question though.... I ordered tf guide plates and used the p# I get off of posts which was for a sbc... They don't seem to be making good contact on the valves... I know they sell tf ones that are specific to lt1s.... Souls I be using those instead

Ok well going with stock 7.2 pushrods after checking I have a very tight swipe pretty much dead center maybe just a tad on intake side....all I need to know is my question on the guide plates now