700rwhp?

[94m6z28]

lt1 383
8.5:1
AFR 195 comp heads
P&P stock inake
stock rails and lines
twin intank with boost ref. F.P.R
GT76 at 15/16psi
with a stand alone ECU

thre an m6, think ill seee the numbers i want?

[1FASTSS]

should be close.

[94m6z28]

what would be holding me back?

[Z28pr0jekt]

it will be close, but idk if 16psi will accomplish it, depends on the cam too

[Fastbird]

How big a cam??? I think.....no, it's GOING to need more head IMO.

[Z28pr0jekt]

How big a cam??? I think.....no, it's GOING to need more head IMO.

Stop stealing my thoughts :)

[94m6z28]

not to sure on the cam yet, but im thinking like 5XX , no more then 600 lift, 115lsa and 250's dur kinda deal, but ill leave that to the one that grinds, it.

more head? 292 int and 220ex at .550 lift wont be enought? the 210 AFR comps only flow a little better at the same lift. worth it?

[Fastbird]

not to sure on the cam yet, but im thinking like 5XX , no more then 600 lift, 115lsa and 250's dur kinda deal, but ill leave that to the one that grinds, it.

more head? 292 int and 220ex at .550 lift wont be enought? the 210 AFR comps only flow a little better at the same lift. worth it?

You're going to overcam it with that, especially on the 195's. Flow numbers aren't everything. A 383 requires a greater volume of air than those 195's are going to give. For the same amount of money as the AFR 195's I'd move up to a set of ported TFS 195's. They open up to the 220CC range and flow in the 300's @ .550 as ported by LE (had my heads independently verified and I was standing right there).

Want proof??? I'm not bashing his setup at ALL because it's VERY potent, but CALL 911. Built 383, TPIS Ported AFR 180's, 244/254 huge honking cam, 114* LSA, D-1SC blower @ 15 PSI makes 615 on pump gas and meth. I keep telling him back the cam down about 10-15* on both ends, and step up the heads, and he'd probably pick up 100 at the wheels. I'd bet dollars to cents that the TPIS AFR 180's are running right alongside the box stock AFR195's that you're talking about.

Do the 195's flow? Yes. Do the flow the volume needed to really push the power? IMO, no.

[Grr]

i would hope so! Call911 needs more blower, you would be suprised how much air you can stuff through those 195s. I would put big money that i can get a verified 600whp on my bone stock LT1 castings. I did 522whp last year at only 10-11 psi, and i gained a whole bunch of power after i did some more work to it, same boost. With my new bracket and air inlet setup i will be closer to 18psi on the stock heads (if i even run them) which i think would be in the 650whp area. You need a big air pusher though.

[94m6z28]

fast bird, what would you say i do for heads/ cam then, keeping price for heads with in the same range

the cam numbers, i honestly pull out of the air, the builder will be looking after that in the end, i want some thing very streeable and still able to be quick at the track

[Fastbird]

i would hope so! Call911 needs more blower, you would be suprised how much air you can stuff through those 195s. I would put big money that i can get a verified 600whp on my bone stock LT1 castings. I did 522whp last year at only 10-11 psi, and i gained a whole bunch of power after i did some more work to it, same boost. With my new bracket and air inlet setup i will be closer to 18psi on the stock heads (if i even run them) which i think would be in the 650whp area. You need a big air pusher though.

Well, there's other factors in his setup. he's got a HUGE cam in there. The car does exactly what he wants though, docile on the low end and comes alive on teh top end. makes it a street brawler that's extremely difficult to beat because it hooks so well. But his car is what made me turn to the turbo, because I had a brand new D-1SC kit and realized that I was NOT going to make the numbers I wanted to see (800ish at the ground).

PSI numbers to me just measure restriction though. I personally would rather push a lower boost number and make the same power due to increased flow than stuff as much boost as I can into it to make a number. The stock castings you can make power with but it's so much harder on the motor.


fast bird, what would you say i do for heads/ cam then, keeping price for heads with in the same range

the cam numbers, i honestly pull out of the air, the builder will be looking that in the end, i want some thing very streeable and still able to be quick at the track

I thought I mentioned it above, but I'd go with something like a LE or AI ported Trick Flow 195 (around $2000-2500, ports out to about 220CC) or the new AFR 227 Eleminator.

[Grr]

I would go with the AFR 210s or 227s for the $1900. you are gonna need at least a 210cc head to do this reliably IMHO. I went with a 230cc head for the very reason that i dont want to run high boost. Just putting the info out that it CAN be done if you want, even on a little 355 like me

[94m6z28]

Well, there's other factors in his setup. he's got a HUGE cam in there. The car does exactly what he wants though, docile on the low end and comes alive on teh top end. makes it a street brawler that's extremely difficult to beat because it hooks so well. But his car is what made me turn to the turbo, because I had a brand new D-1SC kit and realized that I was NOT going to make the numbers I wanted to see (800ish at the ground).

PSI numbers to me just measure restriction though. I personally would rather push a lower boost number and make the same power due to increased flow than stuff as much boost as I can into it to make a number. The stock castings you can make power with but it's so much harder on the motor.



I thought I mentioned it above, but I'd go with something like a LE or AI ported Trick Flow 195 (around $2000-2500, ports out to about 220CC) or the new AFR 227 Eleminator.

do the 2.08's in the AFR make any diff over the 2.02's in the TFS? *intake valves*
would opening up the AFR's give me more gains over opening up the TFS?

sorry if these seem like noob questions, i thought i had it on the head, haha

[Fastbird]

Opening the AFR's would probably get more result over the TFS, but you're going to have extra money into it. Like Grr said, it CAN be done on stock heads, but it will be easier and live a longer life with a better flowing piece.

Grr, those TFS heads open up quite nicely. AI's CNC program opens them to 215CC's. LE opens them up to the 218-220 range. Dollar for dollar I personally think they're the best option out there. I think the jury is still out on the new AFR's though......ocnsidering they're taking what they've learned with their GenIII/IV program, the new heads could be the game breaker the LT1 has been needing.

[94m6z28]

i thikn ill be switching over to the TFS and save a lil money

[Lcvette]

I do not think you will run into problems with the heads that you have, the cam will be more important. take it from me I have done it quite a few different ways, with various results. if the turbo you are talking about is a Garrett Budget unit, I would aim a little higher at something like the GT80 minimum, you will max the compressor wheel out long before you reap the rewards of the 383ci motor. if you haven't built the motor yet I would ask why go 383 which weakens the pistons you can use? a 355 and more boost will be more reliable and not lack in power.. I mean I have a bit of experience dispelling the forced induction 383 vs 355 dabate on which is better.

-Heads look good
-355cid prefered if using a GT76, if 383, go GT80 or GT88
-cam in the 236/236 .590 .590 115LSA
-make sure the intake manifold is well ported for the heads you are using.
-shoot me a PM if you are still in the planning stages for the motor, I will help you build it stronger with a few little tricks.
-ditch the twin intanks pumps, they will end up in disaster maybe not right away but it is inevitable especially if your using walbros, if you must use twin pumps at least use the Bosch 044's.
however for the cost of the twin bosh pumps, a single Fuelab can be had with built in pump controller and your headaches are gone forever with fuel pump concerns.


other then that, looks like a pretty cool project!

Chris

[Fastbird]

-ditch the twin intanks pumps, they will end up in disaster maybe not right away but it is inevitable especially if your using walbros,

Expound upon this please, if you would.

[Grr]

yeah i wish that fuelab pump would have been out a couple years ago, those things are bad ass. If my pump goes that is def the way im going.
I also agree on the 355 being better than the 383 in high power apps. Also the shorter stroke crank takes a little stress off the mains in comparison to the 3.75". Since these blocks have bearing problems up in the 1000whp area every little bit can help.
And finally, yes those heads will be perfectly fine with that turbo. As mentioned you will max that turbo out long before you max the motor out. Also the TFS heads do open up good, but how much do you have in them at that point? The AFR 227s are $1900 and are already fully CNC ported, plus the 2.08 valve does open up a bit of power over the 2.02

[Z28pr0jekt]

Expound upon this please, if you would.

x2... I'd like to know also

[Lcvette]

the twin intanks for me personally through experience with them on two cars and bitten 3 times now... ont he vette I tried it out wired it professionally builot custom intank mounts for the pumps used EFI rated intank hoses to connect to my hard lines.. I had one pump that immediately failed, no biggie, I replaced it (was cheaper then sending it in for warranty). the second pump failed on me under boost.. the problem here is that one pum p will keep the motor running but the AFR will go through the roof as soon as spool occurs... not really a good cost effective way to safegaurd against this and it is completely troublesome to so anyhow as opposed to using one pump large enough to handle the job on its own that is also rated to be used in continuous duty in Methanol, ethanol, race fuel, nitromethane if you desire!

Long story short.. that cost a couple pistons and head gaskets... not fun!

the worst part was I did not even get a refund or credit on the failed pump...

the second time was running an intank 340 and an inline 392 walbro.. one died and shortly after the otherone followed.. the loud whining first and then finally it just popped fuses..

again no credit or refund and they wanted me to send $40.00 just to inspect it and if they decided it wasn't a problem they keep the 40 bucks and you are out the shipping.. it doesn't pay to deal with a company who does not stand behind their product.....

[Fastbird]

The AFR 227s are $1900 and are already fully CNC ported, plus the 2.08 valve does open up a bit of power over the 2.02

Are those new 227's that cheap??? Hell.....that almost makes me want to swap. I had $3400 into my top end, but that's factoring $800 for the bare TFS Castings, $600 for an LT4 manifold, and $1900 for the LE Porting/setup and BRE cam. Granted now you can do the AI TFS outright for $2495, but dang, $1900 for those AFR 227's is a steal.

[Grr]

Yeah i called and that is the price i got, if you look for the other guys thread on here that is what he paid too, so im assuming that is the going rate. You do have to call them to get that price though its not advertised. I got my converted Brodix T1s for $500 though so thats the route im going!

[Lcvette]

the Fuelab pump has been wonderful so far, the controller is very basic and easy to use, it requires no voltage on to close a circuit on some wires that are on the pump already. there are a few different ways to wire it for how fast you want the transition to occur. very slick setup!


as for the heads, I run Trickflow 195's with some port work of my own. I made sure the throats were good for the 2.02 1.60 valves I run, these heads are plenty for a 355, any more and it is a waste of time in a 4" bore in my opinion, you just push the valve edge too close to the bore wall and shroud it.

I am currently running an edelbrock unported LT4 manifold w/ 58mm throttle body. I plan to convert to a single plane EFI converted Victor jr and an LS1 single blade TB in the near future for the new twin build.

355 is a great platform. I am running a very small cam and it is the main thing holding me back along with the intake manifold.. I run a 224 224 .570 .570 115LSA cam it just doesn't have the duration required to really push the revs up.. the intake manifold is also a contributing factor here.. I fully expect with the new cam and single plane along with the twins to hit the 11-1200rwhp mark fairly easily at similar boost levels to what I made the 939rwhp on. the torque will not be as peaky, and I am sure it will be a little bit lower which is fine with me, I want to broaden the curve more then add a peak number to it which in real world performance ont he street is not as effective at propelling the car. it does however contribute alot to ridiculous tire spin.. ask me how I know..lol

thats my take on it fellas, it is mainly from what I have tried already in an effort to take the mystery out of combining several types of parts and see how they work together.

Chris

[Z28pr0jekt]

Wouldn't there be cooling issues using the fuellab pump for a DD. From what i've heard using something like the aeromotive a1000 for hours straight is not a good idea... I regularly drive my car 18 hours straight from ny-fl and I do not want to worry about a pump overheating

[Lcvette]

none whatsoever, the Fuelab as I had described has a built in controller, so when operating under normal driving conditions it only sees ~5-6volts. this reduces the pump speed dramatically so it doesn't overheat the pump or heat the fuel unecessarily. the Aeromotive A1000 which was the first larger single pump I used required (or was recommended to use) the Billet fuel pump voltage controller. this works opposite as a boost-a-pump, it actually runs the pump at half speed and at a certain RPM (user definable) enables full voltage to the pump to increase pump output capacity.

The fuelab has this built into its digital circuitry so there is no added expense in buying a seperate controller. thats what makes this pump such a bargain, you get great part throttle performance with no ill side effects at cruise and around town or on trips, and then when you need it to act like a Giant Race pump it gets full voltage and can support 1500fwhp with ease. the other great ebenfit is the DC Brushless motor. brushes are the point of contact in a motor that add current into the armature by riding on the end of the shaft on a series of pads. these pads are connected to the wire windings in the motor and the electrical current generates a magnetic field opposing to the magnets residing in the case of the motor. this is what creats the shaft and armature to spin and what makes an electrical motor operate. with the DC brushless motor there is no direct contact of brushes on the armature. so there are no brushes to wear down which is what happens in traditional motors over time. this is a huige benefit for consistant pump performance over the course of its useful operating life which is extended in part to this technology.

Chris

[BLOWNDFIZ]

I run the A1000 and it has gone on 5-6 hour trips with zero problems whatsoever.

Another added benefit of running the Fuelab, or Aeromotive pump is mounted externally it's much easier to work on the fuel system should the need occur.

[Z28pr0jekt]

none whatsoever, the Fuelab as I had described has a built in controller, so when operating under normal driving conditions it only sees ~5-6volts. this reduces the pump speed dramatically so it doesn't overheat the pump or heat the fuel unecessarily. the Aeromotive A1000 which was the first larger single pump I used required (or was recommended to use) the Billet fuel pump voltage controller. this works opposite as a boost-a-pump, it actually runs the pump at half speed and at a certain RPM (user definable) enables full voltage to the pump to increase pump output capacity.

The fuelab has this built into its digital circuitry so there is no added expense in buying a seperate controller. thats what makes this pump such a bargain, you get great part throttle performance with no ill side effects at cruise and around town or on trips, and then when you need it to act like a Giant Race pump it gets full voltage and can support 1500fwhp with ease. the other great ebenfit is the DC Brushless motor. brushes are the point of contact in a motor that add current into the armature by riding on the end of the shaft on a series of pads. these pads are connected to the wire windings in the motor and the electrical current generates a magnetic field opposing to the magnets residing in the case of the motor. this is what creats the shaft and armature to spin and what makes an electrical motor operate. with the DC brushless motor there is no direct contact of brushes on the armature. so there are no brushes to wear down which is what happens in traditional motors over time. this is a huige benefit for consistant pump performance over the course of its useful operating life which is extended in part to this technology.

Chris

What all needs to be done to get this pump to work with stock tank? From what I've seen they have -10AN provisions, there are adapters to use smaller lines correct? Vendor?

[Lcvette]

you will need a pre filter and a post filter, generally for gasoline it is a 100 micron SS pre filter and a 10 micron fabric post filter.

I am not positive about the F-body fuel tank, on my corvette fuel tank I used a flared inlet bulkhead fitting at the rear most lowest portion of my tank as close tot he middle (left to right) as possible. then just used the stock feed line as the return line. I run a -10an line from tank to pre-filter, then if you want you can run a -8an line to the gnien compartment and use a -8an post filter between the rail and pump really where ever it is most convenient. the factory aluminum fuel rails on the my car were easy enough to have some 3 dollar aluminum bungs welded on to make connecting everything very easy.

Chris

[94m6z28]

questions

- wont a 383 use the same amount of air as a 355, just at a lower RPM? so if my turbo is going to run out of room, it will just run out at a lower rpm then say it would on a 355, right?


as for ever thing els, this is going to be a true DD car, its going to see rain, snow, sun, long long trips and lots of stop and go traffic on very hot days.

for the pumps, id like to use my stock tank with no mods to it for atleast the next 2 years, and find a new DD, so that is why i opted fro the twin intanks, as for failed pumps, i have gotten a wide band with lean warning and it will be set to be very picky untill a sumped tank and big inline or some thing come along

Grr, for heads, im not sure where you are getting the 1900 from, the assembled AFR 195 comps are 26XX or some thing like that on the AFR list. i do want out of the box heads, just for ease and not worring to much about haveing to make sure all the parts are matched up. on that note, would the AI TFS heads be better then out of the box AFR 195 comps, they are pretty much the same $$, so if they breath better, id rather that

as for the larger cubes choice, i thught a low comprestion 355 *8.5:1* would suck for driving out of boost, and be laggy and gut less, my thoughts where the added cubes would off set that so the car still drove like a stock one when not goofing around (?)

LC what you change/ do diffrently, with out changing over all price much?

[Grr]

you have to call an afr rep and get the price. I called and was quoted about 1900, the other guy on here got the arf 227 comps for 1860, so its not some delusion, i never buy stuff at list price, if i had to i would look elsewhere.
Also there is no reason to build a 8.5:1 motor for a street car. Build it 9:1 or 9.5:1 especially if your using that turbo. My 9:1 355 is about a 13.2@108 car N/A with unported stock heads, and i have no problems with driveability. If your really gonna be putting that many miles on it i would personally stay with the stock stroke and a nice 224/224-.570-ish cam. You cant beat the driveability and it will still make alot of power. I will run a couple combos through my dynosim quick.
Gary

[Lcvette]

my car at 8.7scr and the setup I have is very streetable, it isn't going to set the world on fire off boost, but then again the first time you hit boost you won't give two shits about off boost. the PT78HPS turbo I ran was almost instnataneous to the gas pedal, you hit the pedal and boost followed right along. that would be the build I chose if you aren't trying to go for 1000+rwhp, my car on that turbo made the following as opposed to the PT88.. as you can see I had full (21psi) boost by 4000RPM. in first and second it was silly.. if you are just gonna run 12-14 psi mainly, you will see full boost by 3400-3500 RPM.. you don't need the extra torque or side loading a 3.75" stroke is going to add to the motor.. a 355 is absolutely plenty.. it is a 355cube V8 what off boost torque are you worried about? it isn't a 2.0L 4 cylinder where it is dreadful to drive off boost.. my car pulled great at cruise in 5th and even in 6th gear, no cam surge, smooth, very much like stock if not a bit more potent.

save the money on the engine and have some good pistons built! PM me if you need a suggestion on pistons.. Ross will still have my set on file I am sure and can replicate them. they are pretty tough I would say! ;)


Chris

[94m6z28]

ok, so what combo would you say i should run?

i dont plan on 1000rwhp, thats way out there, and i dont think i could honestly enjoy that ever day, iv seen a built of a "mild" 355 putting out 575hp kinda deal, id like the same kinda power as, im not sure if you guys have seen it becuse the link is no longer on the speed inc site, but the red, twin turbo lt1 car that is just crazy built and slick. id like that kinda power. soo 700rwhp was my target
LCvette, you have that lt4 c4 thats pushing 9XX right?

[Grr]

if you do a good 355 (9.5:1) and put regular ported LTx casting or any out of the box head like the trickflow, afr, dart, etc. and run it up to 15psi with a intercooler and a tc76 you will have no problem getting 650whp. that setup will make a huge amount of tq as well and have great off boost response. Thats my vote

[Lcvette]

Yes, I am that guy. :D

the 355 as Grr mentioned will easily hit your goal of 650-700 wheel horsepower, be very streetable and have plenty of response.

the car you are reffering to is Jim's old TTcar from Speed Inc. he ran that car in the Mile and it was a very nice build up. that car eneded up making 800+rwhp on twins and he went several different ways getting settled on his combo. he first ran a 76mm then an 88mm then finally settled on twins...hmmm this is sounding familiar..lol

for your power goals, a single 76-78mm will be more then enough with great spool.. don't try to reinvent the wheel, it has been done many times before your build, just follow the instructions on the various forums and take advice from those who have done not those who have pondered doing but never put in the wrench time.

when it comes to forced Induction on our motors, there is alot to be learned still of what works the best. but for your desires, the map is already unfolded and you should be able to avoid unecessary spending and keep costs as low as possible.

I would look at RealQuick's setups, you will not be able to duplicate them for less money I don't care who you know or what you think you can save by trying to walk a different path, his prices are silly affordable for what you get!


THis is coming from someone who was FORCED to build there own kit because no one makes anything for a C4 corvette.. the cost is astronomical at the end to what you calculated it to be before the build.. the small stuff you never consider is the stuff that adds up to be more then the large components.

Keep that in mind!

Chris

[KissMyWhtSS]

You'll be close, but I think you may need 210's to make it happen.

[LT1_Fireman]

Yeah I agree a 355 is plenty of motor for your goal,I did it with a blower @16lbs so using a gt76 turbo at the same boost should be fairy easy(I know there are a lot of variables but still). Good luck.

[RealQuick]

Thanks for the words Chris.

There is a lot of experience in this thread. Definintely try and take it all in.

IMO, the 195's would have been fine, but since you haven't bought them yet, don't bother. 700rwhp with a 76mm turbo should be easy with a decent set of hotparts, 76mm turbo and ported heads (even stock ported castings).

Jon

[Z28pr0jekt]

Thanks for the words Chris.

There is a lot of experience in this thread. Definintely try and take it all in.

IMO, the 195's would have been fine, but since you haven't bought them yet, don't bother. 700rwhp with a 76mm turbo should be easy with a decent set of hotparts, 76mm turbo and ported heads (even stock ported castings).

Jon

Exactly... I'm expecting between 500whp-600whp between high and low boost on my TC78 with a 355 w/ stock heads and intake/custom cam

I FULLY expect to hit the 700whp mark when I get ported heads/intake (stock castings)

[94m6z28]

i have a kit already, it was and probly will always be a P.I.A kit, but ive got it alrady so im going to use it till it goes bust. im planning to go to the place that will be building the motor in about 2 weeks. So if i am going to be, and i think i am, changing my build plans i thinking i should do it now. i have been looking around but most places i have looked, ls1 tech and so on. i have done all serching i can and there isent many lt1 build threads that i can find on there like this, besides yours Chris

would the AFR 195 comps or the AI TFS's have any problem hitting or getting near the 700rwhp mark on a 355?. the only thing i thought of, after looking at some charts on a site, cant remember what one, was that a 355 can make same the same power as a 383, just that the 383 will make it quicker and in a lower RPM band meaning, or so i thought, that it would be more streetable. but if a 355 can make 700rwhp in the 6-6500rpm range, boost around 3k and still have good street manors. no surging, bucking, no lack of power out of boost. id much rather save a few bucks here and spend it else where. when i get back home. ill post my parts list,including part numbers to see what you guys think. or any recommendations on changing any parts. as for the turbo, it is a GTS76mm that came with the kit.

as for the over all comprestion ratio, i just want to use pump gas, no meth or any thing like that. i am running an A2A FMIC, so i asumed 8.5:1 would leave me lots of room to up the boost if it was lacking in power and not have to worrie about haveing a very agressive tune, what are the main benafits of going a point or evern 1/2 a point higher???

[94m6z28]

so here what i was thiking

Eagle Forged Crank *now not sure if going stroker or stock*
H Beam Rods with the ARP 2000 Bolts
Clevite bearings
Comp Cam Hyd. Roller Lifts and 1.6RR
HV Oil Pump
Cometic head gaskets
stock replacment timeing set

converted to 4 bolt, square decked, bored with trq plate and align honed, blanced and blue printed, and a short fill i think

heads are back up in the air, in the works of talking with a few diff companys

thoughts?

[Grr]

ill add a little more. I wouldnt do the block filler, you wont have any block problems for another 300hp. As far as heads, you would be a fool not to scour the ls1tech classifieds and picking up a set of used TF 195s or something for 1/2 price. other than that, looks pretty good! A note on rods, the scat, manley, and compstar rods are all from the same foundry in china. The scat is machined there, i think the manleys are as well. The compstar rods are machined in the US, and the finish on them is way better than the other 2. Also callies does a deep heat treat that is much better. I run a dragonslayer 3.48" crank and 6" compstar rods, and would have to reccommend them as they are great pieces. Nothing wrong with the eagle stuff, but they are usually alot harder to balance and clean up compared to the better cranks, leaving the price savings less than you expect.

[94m6z28]

would block filling help with the crank loading if i stay stroker?

what about eagel H beams? still china?

[Grr]

pretty much everything eagle has is china made. a very short fill would help strength a small amoun, but the loss of cooling would be worse i would think. A guy local to me didnt start having bearing issues until 1100whp, and it had gone to over 1200whp quite a few times before it started wiping bearings

[94m6z28]

bah. haha. your runing a 355 right? what kinda numbers are you putting down, if u dont mind me asking

[Grr]

i dont know anymore. Its a 355 yes. Last year with completely stock lt1 heads and about 10-11psi i made 3 pulls, and the tune was absolutely terrible. i made 522whp/477wtq on the 3rd pull around 6400rpm. Over the next 2 months i picked up to what i figured was about 580-600whp on the same boost. The last time i had the car out i upped it to around 18-20psi once and it was a good 100whp more than that, probably 725whp or so. Now this year with these huge heads 700whp should come by 15psi on pump.

[94m6z28]

nice, well then. i think im going to drop the fill and stroke.


oh, one more question, what sized injectors are you running?

[Grr]

65#, biggest you can get. No sense in buying injectors twice. They make a 73# now that would be worth looking into. Im getting rid of this god forsaken ECM and going with the LSx ECM and coil packs. Actually get a decent tuning software again, i feel sorry for anybody trying to use a LTx ecm, its a piece of shit

[94m6z28]

have you thought of a stand alone?

like power efi?