yank ss3600 or ss4000

[nickp]

i am buying a yank ss series converter this week. i was wonering if the 4000 would be too much for an lt1. the motor is a forged 383 with good heads & nitrous. i shift @ 6500. i race the car alot & really want some 1.5 60's. will the 3600 be enough to achieve this? ive heard the lt1's torque curve is much lower than an ls1, and a 4000 would be too much. also anyone with a 4000ss, how are the street manners?

[96LT1SS]

I love my 3600 its perfect

[96lt1m6]

There are a few things needed to know before a stall is just thrown into it,like cam specs duration @ .050....

[nickp]

There are a few things needed to know before a stall is just thrown into it,like cam specs duration @ .050....

stage 3 factory heads milled .015 w/2.02/1.600 manley race master valves, 918 beehives, chromoly pushrods, hp caddy lifters, xfi 468 grind camshaft (specs-242,248@.050,.584,.579 lift), pro magnom 1.6 chromoloy rockers 4 bolt splayed main caps, all forged internals, 3.75 crank throw, 5.7 rod length, mahle flat tops w/2 'eye brows', .040 mls head gaskets (should have lots of compression), ported intake, 42# flow matched racetronix injectors, A1000 fuel pump, hooker 1 3/4'' long tubes, internally ballanced. car has qa1's, no front sway bar, 8 point chromoly cage, tubular control arms, 3.73 gears, 275/50-17 mickey t dr,s out back, race weight this year should be around 3400 with me in it. thats all i can think of. lookink for 1.5 sixty foots, but still like to drive around town.

[Speed Inc.]

I run the SS4000 in my 97 Z w/ 396 combo. I am very pleased with it and it works well since I shift my car at 7K. I think you would be better off with the SS3600 by you noting you shift at 6500 ( which is a surprise by your combo noted )

I have not yet tested my car on spray, but it may be too loose and need to be tightened up. This will not be known for a couple months still with this crap weather we have.

BTW : We are a dealer for Yank and can get you the unit for $725 shipped, so let me know when you are ready.

[96lt1m6]

stage 3 factory heads milled .015 w/2.02/1.600 manley race master valves, 918 beehives, chromoly pushrods, hp caddy lifters, xfi 468 grind camshaft (specs-242,248@.050,.584,.579 lift), pro magnom 1.6 chromoloy rockers 4 bolt splayed main caps, all forged internals, 3.75 crank throw, 5.7 rod length, mahle flat tops w/2 'eye brows', .040 mls head gaskets (should have lots of compression), ported intake, 42# flow matched racetronix injectors, A1000 fuel pump, hooker 1 3/4'' long tubes, internally ballanced. car has qa1's, no front sway bar, 8 point chromoly cage, tubular control arms, 3.73 gears, 275/50-17 mickey t dr,s out back, race weight this year should be around 3400 with me in it. thats all i can think of. lookink for 1.5 sixty foots, but still like to drive around town.


with that cam i would definately use the bigger stall....;)

[joelster]

The fact that you spray it makes a huge difference in the kind of converter you run. You could LOVE a loose 4000rpm stall when you run N/A, and have it be perfect at the track. The very next run you could whack it with a 150 shot and have your car blow right through the converter and have it stalling at 5300rpm+ and not taking advantage of the HUGE torque spike the juice provides . You will be hard pressed to find a converter that can do N/A and nitrous very well. There will most likely be some sort of compromise either way.

[96lt1m6]

very true it is haed to get a car that runs hard N/A and on N2O it is usually one or the other but these days we all seem to have double duty cars. LOL a 6spd can help with that! LOL look at Taners car

[Speed Inc.]

The fact that you spray it makes a huge difference in the kind of converter you run. You could LOVE a loose 4000rpm stall when you run N/A, and have it be perfect at the track. The very next run you could whack it with a 150 shot and have your car blow right through the converter and have it stalling at 5300rpm+ and not taking advantage of the HUGE torque spike the juice provides . You will be hard pressed to find a converter that can do N/A and nitrous very well. There will most likely be some sort of compromise either way.

very true statement and the reason I direct him to the 3600 to be more on the safe side

[nickp]

im kinda leaning toward the ss3600 at this point. i really appreciate the feedback you guys are giving me. i know theres a ton of variables involved, but do you think i can touch the 1.5's on motor, or at least come damn close? what are you guys 60 footing? i would get an occasional high 1.6 with my old 100k, stock head & cam motor with the tci 3000 converter. btw, speed inc, i will be sending you a pm. thanks guys

[Speed Inc.]

1.44 NA
275/60/15 M/T DR's