Well I am trying

[jaysz2893]

Well I fired up the Camaro with a modified stock tune to see if it will pass emissions. Ran like crap but was staying around 14 - 15 on the wideband. It then decided to overheat and puke out the overflow.... grrrrrrr

Checked and both fans work when hooked to a battery. I got new relays to put in. I am wondering if the VSS signal that is now going to the GPS box for the speedo is an issue.

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[Fastbird]

Saw this posted on the book face. You seem to have never ending problems with it. Could it be just an air bubble that needs purging?

[zooguy]

One of the perks about having an electric water pump is that I don't have to run the motor to purge all the air bubbles out .... I'll turn on the water pump which is relatively quiet and I will fill up the radiator with water leaving the cap off ... sometimes it takes 20 or 30 minutes to hear the bubbles gurgle and I go check the radiator to see the water level down

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[jaysz2893]

Saw this posted on the book face. You seem to have never ending problems with it. Could it be just an air bubble that needs purging?Well she has sat for about 4 years now. I will hook the fans back up and the VSS wire because I dont need the GPS speedo now with the stock rear. I'll top it off, burp it, and see what happens. Plan is to have it tagged and hopefully antique in enough time to take it to a big show later this year. It is finally old enough to show there.

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[Nostang 96z]

Make sure your Coolant temp sensor in the water pump is reading correctly. This sensor can cause overheating as it is what the PCM uses to turn the fans on as well as A/F ratios and enrichment.

[jaysz2893]

Make sure your Coolant temp sensor in the water pump is reading correctly. This sensor can cause overheating as it is what the PCM uses to turn the fans on as well as A/F ratios and enrichment.I replaced it this morning with a new one. Went to fire up the the car to find out I left the key in the ACC position and the battery is dead.. lol

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[popo8]

She is pissed about those 4 years of being ignored.

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[jaysz2893]

She is pissed about those 4 years of being ignored.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkFor sure... fighting me every step. Hopefully the DMV gods will have mercy on me once I get her there.

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[popo8]

For sure... fighting me every step. Hopefully the DMV gods will have mercy on me once I get her there.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkI wish u both luck...

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[SSlowBoat]

One of the perks about having an electric water pump is that I don't have to run the motor to purge all the air bubbles out .... I'll turn on the water pump which is relatively quiet and I will fill up the radiator with water leaving the cap off ... sometimes it takes 20 or 30 minutes to hear the bubbles gurgle and I go check the radiator to see the water level down

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalkwatch opening the upper bleeder with the pump running, it's on the suction side of the pump and will pull air IN.

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[Cathead]

I'll throw this out here, I use a Lisle spill proof funnel when I fill/purge the radiator. I think I bought mine on Amazon. Maybe it'll help.

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[zooguy]

Yeah I completely deleted the bleeder screw I just opened up the radiator cap

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[jaysz2893]

Well I replaced the temp sensor in the WP and topped her off. At idle the fan doesn't come on until one line before the red. The car has a 160 stat in it. When I shut it off you hear boiling and it pukes out the reservoir. I bled air at the thermostat housing and the upper one. I was thinking maybe the cap or stat is bad? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/101f1fb809064764e6b0d76c9368a358.jpg

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[Injuneer]

If you're running stock programming, first fan should come on at 226°F, and second fan at 235°F. The stripe before the red is about 235°-240°F.

You can check the connector at the coolant temp sensor, to see if you have the correct 5 volts reference across the two wires (connector off the sensor).

Shoebox's guide to temp sensor testing:

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect

When the radiator cools down and you open the cap, is the radiator still full to the top? A crack in the overflow line to the reservoir prevents the vacuum that develops as the radiator cools from pulling coolant back out of the reservoir to keep the radiator full, with no air pocket.

[Cathead]

Well I replaced the temp sensor in the WP and topped her off. At idle the fan doesn't come on until one line before the red. The car has a 160 stat in it. When I shut it off you hear boiling and it pukes out the reservoir. I bled air at the thermostat housing and the upper one. I was thinking maybe the cap or stat is bad? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/101f1fb809064764e6b0d76c9368a358.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkSounds like your fans aren't programmed to come on with the 160 t'stat. I might have missed it somewhere in this thread but your 1st post said that you put the stock tune in.

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[jaysz2893]

If you're running stock programming, first fan should come on at 226°F, and second fan at 235°F. The stripe before the red is about 235°-240°F.

You can check the connector at the coolant temp sensor, to see if you have the correct 5 volts reference across the two wires (connector off the sensor).

Shoebox's guide to temp sensor testing:

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect

When the radiator cools down and you open the cap, is the radiator still full to the top? A crack in the overflow line to the reservoir prevents the vacuum that develops as the radiator cools from pulling coolant back out of the reservoir to keep the radiator full, with no air pocket.I only hear the drivers side fan come on when the gauge gets to the 235 line. I checked the pass side fan and it works and so do the relays. The car boils over and pushes coolant out of the overflow cap. When it cools off and I open the radiator the coolant is low. I know this should be easier than this. Somedays I think about hanging up the car stuff.... lol

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[jaysz2893]

Sounds like your fans aren't programmed to come on with the 160 t'stat. I might have missed it somewhere in this thread but your 1st post said that you put the stock tune in.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkThe tune is stock for timing and fueling. I'm going to have to double check the temp for the fans. I swore it was set to 160.

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[jaysz2893]

I wonder if the water pump is taking a dump. When I drive the car it is fine. It only pukes from the boiling and expansion. Maybe I have poor circulation? The car has sat for about 4 years.

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[Fastbird]

If you can hear it boiling, it might be worth a shot to change the radiator cap just to make sure it's maintaining the appropriate pressure. New T-Stat wouldn't hurt either.

[jaysz2893]

If you can hear it boiling, it might be worth a shot to change the radiator cap just to make sure it's maintaining the appropriate pressure. New T-Stat wouldn't hurt either.I ordered a cap and stat. Also ordered a new pump. The one on there sat off the car for a few years while I replaced the opti... slowly... lol. If I am going to do the stat I'll just do the pump too, and check all the hoses.

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[jaysz2893]

looks like i had the line to the steam pipe and the line to the overflow on the wrong nipples on the radiator. car is warming up now. fingers crossed!

[jaysz2893]

well, the fan came on and cooled it back down to the halfway mark after getting to the 235 mark. I still need to set the right temp in the ECM. Good news it didnt boil over!!

[zooguy]

well, the fan came on and cooled it back down to the halfway mark after getting to the 235 mark. I still need to set the right temp in the ECM. Good news it didnt boil over!!Maybe found the fix

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[jaysz2893]

Maybe found the fix

Sent from my SM-N950U using TapatalkI found a post on the other tech from 2008 that had the same problem and fix. I hoping this is it and I can get good MoJo for DMV [emoji16]

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[Fastbird]

Nice find man. Best of luck that it is smooth from here on out.