Oil Pan

[donfrye]

I'm doing the cam swap and found some gunk in the front of my oil pan along with a slight tear in the gasket around one of the front pan bolts.

My question is this, without the intake and valve covers on the motor, can I get enough clearance between the crossmember and pan to remove it completely if I remove both motor mount bolts and lift?

Thanks in advance to anyone with knowledge. I've read about every single post on the subject and can't seem to find much other than it's a major PITA.

[SSlowBoat]

I'm doing the cam swap and found some gunk in the front of my oil pan along with a slight tear in the gasket around one of the front pan bolts.

My question is this, without the intake and valve covers on the motor, can I get enough clearance between the crossmember and pan to remove it completely if I remove both motor mount bolts and lift?

Thanks in advance to anyone with knowledge. I've read about every single post on the subject and can't seem to find much other than it's a major PITA.easy way, support engine, loosen 6 k member bolts, drop k down as low as you can without removing bolts, rotate engine while fishing pan out

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[Camaro96]

I'm doing the cam swap and found some gunk in the front of my oil pan along with a slight tear in the gasket around one of the front pan bolts.

My question is this, without the intake and valve covers on the motor, can I get enough clearance between the crossmember and pan to remove it completely if I remove both motor mount bolts and lift?

Thanks in advance to anyone with knowledge. I've read about every single post on the subject and can't seem to find much other than it's a major PITA.I have been able to remove motor mount bolt and trans mount bolt. Jack up the engine support it with a jack stand and 2/4 remove pan and replace gasket

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[kitt8090]

I did this on a lift before. I removed the motor mounts and used an engine hoist to pull the motor up and the oil pan will slide out the back. It's a little tight.. but it comes out. My motor was complete too. Starter has to come off too.

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[donfrye]

Thanks guys.

I pulled the motor mount bolts and got it high enough to pull. I think I jacked up the low oil sensor but that's 13 bucks on rockauto. Pulled starter obviously.

Now I'm waiting in my prothane poly mounts to come so I can kill the floor thump.

I suppose I should take some pics but I'm bad about shit like that.

[Camaro96]

Thanks guys.

I pulled the motor mount bolts and got it high enough to pull. I think I jacked up the low oil sensor but that's 13 bucks on rockauto. Pulled starter obviously.

Now I'm waiting in my prothane poly mounts to come so I can kill the floor thump.

I suppose I should take some pics but I'm bad about shit like that.I'm not sure the mileage on your motor. If you have high mileage are low oil
Pressure. I would change it. While your have the pan off.

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[donfrye]

I'm not sure the mileage on your motor. If you have high mileage are low oil
Pressure. I would change it. While your have the pan off.

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I don't know what you're referring to.

[kitt8090]

He's saying based on your milage and if you have low oil pressure now would be a good time to change the oil pump also. Tubby has the part # for the "white" spring from gm that ups the oil pressure too.

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[Camaro96]

I don't know what you're referring to.Sorry, if you have high mileage on your engine ( 1,000.000) miles I would recommend changing your oil pump. While you have the oil pan off. Its cheap ins to preserve your engine from bearing damage do to lack of oil.

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[donfrye]

Ahhh. Ok.

[fullforce]

Sorry, if you have high mileage on your engine ( 1,000.000) miles I would recommend changing your oil pump. While you have the oil pan off. Its cheap ins to preserve your engine from bearing damage do to lack of oil.

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1,000? or 1,000,000?

thats a big jump

lol

[Camaro96]

1,000? or 1,000,000?

thats a big jump

lolOne hundred thousand miles plus

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[BALLSS]

OP

you found "gunk" on front of pan. IDK what it was but the note about replacing oil pump may apply more if whatever that gunk was, especially if the PU screen was clogged with some crap, also got sucked up inside oil pump.

You could just open the pump up and inspect/clean and re-use if it checks out. Many put in the GM white spring (HP) in a stock pump

I would get a 1 piece oil pump drive shaft regardless if you still have the stock one with plastic collar and are doing a cam swap

[SSlowBoat]

I'm that asshole over here using oil pumps with 250k miles on them and not having an issue, but what do I know?. if the motor had oiling issues, then maybe, MAYBE I would replace the pump. but there's nothing really to go wrong with the pump itself. stock pumps are fine.

JB weld pickup tube on so it doesn't fall off
GM white high pressure spring
Melling 1 piece steel oil pump drive and done.

Those parts will cost you about $30, and guess what, it's what we run in everything. Ltconvert oil pump is a white spring stocker with 150k on it......and Karl Ellwein put it right in the 383 with nary a hesitation.

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[firebird_1995]

I've had good luck with these. The pickup comes welded to the pump. Drive with steel sleeve and mounting stud included.
$50
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ses-3-60-08-003


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[donfrye]

Lots to address here so I'll do my best.

1st, I think the gunk in the pan was old oil and some road crud that had sat in the seam at the front of the timing cover. It was limited just to the front.

Car had just hit 100k and never had any oil issues whatsoever.

I hadn't planned on changing or modifying the oil pump. I'm running out of funds rapidly on this cam swap and hiding shitbon credit cards to mask the true cost.

[fullforce]

Lol

[Camaro96]

Lots to address here so I'll do my best.

1st, I think the gunk in the pan was old oil and some road crud that had sat in the seam at the front of the timing cover. It was limited just to the front.

Car had just hit 100k and never had any oil issues whatsoever.

I hadn't planned on changing or modifying the oil pump. I'm running out of funds rapidly on this cam swap and hiding shitbon credit cards to mask the true cost.That's understandable. The thought on the oil pump was erroring on the side of caution. I have scene a lot of premature engine failures do to oil pump performance. Looks like others have ran them for couple hundred thousand miles and not had issues. I was giving advice on wanting your cam swap to be with out a problem arising.

Congrats on the cam upgrade hope you enjoy it.

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[SSlowBoat]

Lots to address here so I'll do my best.

1st, I think the gunk in the pan was old oil and some road crud that had sat in the seam at the front of the timing cover. It was limited just to the front.

Car had just hit 100k and never had any oil issues whatsoever.

I hadn't planned on changing or modifying the oil pump. I'm running out of funds rapidly on this cam swap and hiding shitbon credit cards to mask the true cost.just get a white spring and 1 piece drive. it's cheap insurance

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[donfrye]

just get a white spring and 1 piece drive. it's cheap insurance

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I'm not being a lazy ass but seriously have no idea where to obtain the spring and drive. Is that something Summit or Rockauto would have? I've only seen the full pump unit during my (mis) adventures.

[SSlowBoat]

I'm not being a lazy ass but seriously have no idea where to obtain the spring and drive. Is that something Summit or Rockauto would have? I've only seen the full pump unit during my (mis) adventures.yes, drive can be had from advance auto for 15, spring is on pace performance, standby for links

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mel-is-55e

http://paceperformance.com/i-5134767-3848911-v6-90-high-pressure-oil-pump-spring.html

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[BALLSS]

donfry

oil pumps last a loooong time....

100k mi pump on a motor that did not blow up sending metal shavings everywhere should be fine

you should absolutely get the Melling or ARP 1 piece drive shaft though. The plastic collar on the stock one gets brittle and once removed and re-installed..that collar can crack so for the $12-$15 it costs to replace with a solid metal one is advised. a cracked plastic collar will break and you will immediately have no oil pressure. Also be very careful on re-installing the oil pump drive gear with that one small bolt. The old plastic top can crack or break so just "snug" it on using some loc-tite first on threads

Now you have a cam and will spin the motor higher RPM a "high pressure" spring (GM white one) is what many install in the stock oil pump. Opening up the pump to install it you will immediately see if there is any problem inside it but 100k mi alone is not a reason to change it on a otherwise working motor.