SD idle tuning problems

[kgkern01]

I am trying to dial in my start, idle, and cruising tune in SD before tuning it in MAF mode, however, it will not idle at all in SD and wont start unless I have my foot on the throttle. When I get it started I either have to keep feathering the throttle, or if using EEHack, set the Open Loop AFR all the way to about 19-20 with IAC at 160 for it to idle. If the MAF is plugged in, it idles fine. Any suggestions on how to get this dialed in correctly? Fuel injectors have been cleaned/flow tested, new plugs/wires/coil/opti.

[SSlowBoat]

I am trying to dial in my start, idle, and cruising tune in SD before tuning it in MAF mode, however, it will not idle at all in SD and wont start unless I have my foot on the throttle. When I get it started I either have to keep feathering the throttle, or if using EEHack, set the Open Loop AFR all the way to about 19-20 with IAC at 160 for it to idle. If the MAF is plugged in, it idles fine. Any suggestions on how to get this dialed in correctly? Fuel injectors have been cleaned/flow tested, new plugs/wires/coil/opti.
Do you have sd mode enabled in the tune?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[kgkern01]

Yes, SD Enabled, MAF SES Code disabled. When I run it like this it doesnt want to idle or it dies if I take the foot off the throttle, but if I re-enable MAF and plug it back in, it idles. So this leads me to believe that one of the VE tables, and/or others must be way off. Just need some help from some tuning gurus!

More car info: Cam is 243/251 110LSA, 63lb Siemens injectors.

[SSlowBoat]

Yes, SD Enabled, MAF SES Code disabled. When I run it like this it doesnt want to idle or it dies if I take the foot off the throttle, but if I re-enable MAF and plug it back in, it idles. So this leads me to believe that one of the VE tables, and/or others must be way off. Just need some help from some tuning gurus!

More car info: Cam is 243/251 110LSA, 63lb Siemens injectors.
Is the car boosted? Why are you tuning it sd first? Id tune it maf first then just use ve master to bring the ve tables in line

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[kgkern01]

No it's not boosted, I've just read to dial in idle and drivability in under SD mode first and with VE Master to get it running best, then to dial in the MAF tables once VE is adjusted.

[SSlowBoat]

No it's not boosted, I've just read to dial in idle and drivability in under SD mode first and with VE Master to get it running best, then to dial in the MAF tables once VE is adjusted.
If it runs in maf tune it in maf, then ve mode is only power enrichment mode. MoeHorsePower whats your opinion?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[MoeHorsePower]

yes it will run off of PE

[kgkern01]

Ok then I'll just try to tune it in MAF mode then. The other issue I'm having is surging or "missing" feeling at low throttle/RPM such as cruising. Replaced the entire ignition system (opti/coil/wires) and made no change to the drivability when doing so, so it leads me to believe it is something else possibly in the tune causing the slight surging or missing.

[kgkern01]

I'm going to check all of the spark plugs again on it, I feel like at this point that it has to be a random miss, not sure if I have a bad plug, wrong gap, heat range, etc.

Would the live cylinder deactivation test in EEHack identify the cylinder, and if so, what should I look for in the test?

[Mrmaroon]

I'm going to check all of the spark plugs again on it, I feel like at this point that it has to be a random miss, not sure if I have a bad plug, wrong gap, heat range, etc.

Would the live cylinder deactivation test in EEHack identify the cylinder, and if so, what should I look for in the test?

I am having the same problems. ChasIng now for a year. I used the cylinder test to find a bad wire. I found one (#7). It improved my low RPM driving but idle stayed the same. I've seen a couple of screen shots of the cyl balance test others performed. It seems like cyl #1 is always lower than the rest for them. My #1 is always 1 lower than the others with 2-8 having a difference of ~1.5.

Tonight I just changed opti, plugs, wires, and coolant sensor. I spaced and re thermal greased my ICM. Removed EGR. When I test drive tomorrow I will let you know if it fixed the idle.

Mine stumbles more when it gets hot. Sometimes every 1-3 seconds. Starts a little before closed loop temps when cold. Will do it in open loop when starting hot. The whole car shakes slightly. My lights dim slightly. I can see the tach needle dropping ~50RPM.

I am infected with the intake mani leak virus. My results may be dirty :p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Injuneer]

More car info: Cam is 243/251 110LSA

Is it reasonable expect a smooth idle, or surge-free idle/low RPM cruise with a cam that big?

[SSlowBoat]

Is it reasonable expect a smooth idle, or surge-free idle/low RPM cruise with a cam that big?
Imho no LOL. My 228/234 on a 110lsa had surge

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[kgkern01]

Is it reasonable expect a smooth idle, or surge-free idle/low RPM cruise with a cam that big?

Rough idle I expect, but I should be able to cruise on the highway without noticeable bucking right?

[SSlowBoat]

Rough idle I expect, but I should be able to cruise on the highway without noticeable bucking right?
Depends on converter/gear/rear gear. My car would buck if i was close to stall barely any throttle because of the cam

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[kgkern01]

Depends on converter/gear/rear gear. My car would buck if i was close to stall barely any throttle because of the cam

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Rear gear is 3.73 but with M29 transmission, so 6th gear is more like having an MN6 with 4.24. Still get the bucking/missing around 2k as well.

[SSlowBoat]

Rear gear is 3.73 but with M29 transmission, so 6th gear is more like having an MN6 with 4.24. Still get the bucking/missing around 2k as well.
Thats too low of an rpm with that size cam

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[kgkern01]

Update: Cylinder deactivation test all the cylinders were pretty close, nothing stood out there. Went back to the tune and decided to adjust the BLM MAP table, as it was still stock, bumped it up to 50/70/80, and ran VE Master through it again, and it made a huge difference, it's actually driveable on the highway and cruising now. So I guess my BLM MAP table was the main culprit.