Budget clutch options that will last

[SSlowBoat]

Got my first t56 car. Previous previous owner had a clutch done in it and supposedly a tick adjustable mc. Clutch CHATTERS like nobodies business. Talked to him and he stated he only replaced the disc, not the pp or flywheel, if original would be 200xxx miles old. All my plans for this car are budget but need to last. If im dropping money on a clutch it has to be a once and done for a long while kinda thing and will eventually be able to handle a healthy 355 or 383. Car is a street car thru and thru, i dont really ever go to the track.

So thoughts? New stock flywheel, cheapo "hd" luk brand clutch from rock auto?

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[Sahara54]

Spec stage 3...I went cheap and paid for it.

[SSlowBoat]

Spec stage 3...I went cheap and paid for it.
I heard competition clutch stage 3 is basically the same

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[harner]

I seem to remember the LT4 clutch being a good option for budget replacement. Not sure if they make it anymore or what the PN is, but worth a look.

[Sahara54]

I heard competition clutch stage 3 is basically the same

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I had a CC stage 3 and it looked like a stock pressure plate and disk. Burned through it in less than 200 miles. My spec is the 6 puck stage 3 and it's on or off.

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[SSlowBoat]

I had a CC stage 3 and it looked like a stock pressure plate and disk. Burned through it in less than 200 miles. My spec is the 6 puck stage 3 and it's on or off.

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is it a pain to drive on the street if its like a light switch?

[Sahara54]

It's not a pain. It's a good clutch, on and off may have been an exaggeration but you know when it grabs.

[Catmaigne]

All of the replacement pressure plates are LT4 style now (except maybe the street twin). They don't make the regular one anymore. Valeo also doesn't make the plates anymore either. They are all from china and have C70043 stamped on them. Even Spec is using these although they are sometimes milled.

I'd prefer a full face clutch disc rather than puck. My car has a Spec 3+ which is pretty aggresive but not awful. Honestly just as bad as the Spec 1 my friend has in his car. I would take a stock clutch over the 1 though.

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[SSlowBoat]

ok so whos got the hook up on a spec 3+?

[harner]

Just curious, did you look into a Carquest clutch? I bet they are super cheap.

/troll

Give Gail (or BDB?) a call, maybe she has a hook up.

[SSlowBoat]

Just curious, did you look into a Carquest clutch? I bet they are super cheap.

/troll

Give Gail (or BDB?) a call, maybe she has a hook up.

she kicked me to owen, he recommended comp stage 3. i sent a message to bdb

[superspirit]

I've been running a napa clutch for 2 years, and havent had any problems. but I dont really beat on my car, YMMV

[BALLSS]

Tubby

for a stock motor the NAPA kit (likely LUK) for $200 is OK.

The PO who only replaced the disc...yeah I bet it chatters if the FW & PP are original. Just get a new basic replacement kit and have your FW resurfaced or buy a new one from rockauto.com

if you plan on making more HP in the future than you will need to step up to a clutch with a more aggressive friction material. Always a trade off on street manners and longevity when you enter that world. I have had Competition Clutch 2.5, Zoom Kevlar, SPEC 2+, Clutch Masters organic disc. Other than the organic disc the others were prone to chatter but did hold better. 1/4 mi use with running a tire will take its toll on life expectancy but if you are not a 1/4 mi guy than those types of clutches will hold up

all clutch companies use the same clone off shore made LT4 PP. It is the disc material and construction that differ from one company over the other

Some just buy a store brand kit for $200 and then buy the McLeod dual friction disc for about $200 which is cheaper than the $5xx kit costs from McLeod, RAM, SPEC, ZOOM, CC, etc.

[SSlowBoat]

Tubby

for a stock motor the NAPA kit (likely LUK) for $200 is OK.

The PO who only replaced the disc...yeah I bet it chatters if the FW & PP are original. Just get a new basic replacement kit and have your FW resurfaced or buy a new one from rockauto.com

if you plan on making more HP in the future than you will need to step up to a clutch with a more aggressive friction material. Always a trade off on street manners and longevity when you enter that world. I have had Competition Clutch 2.5, Zoom Kevlar, SPEC 2+, Clutch Masters organic disc. Other than the organic disc the others were prone to chatter but did hold better. 1/4 mi use with running a tire will take its toll on life expectancy but if you are not a 1/4 mi guy than those types of clutches will hold up

all clutch companies use the same clone off shore made LT4 PP. It is the disc material and construction that differ from one company over the other

Some just buy a store brand kit for $200 and then buy the McLeod dual friction disc for about $200 which is cheaper than the $5xx kit costs from McLeod, RAM, SPEC, ZOOM, CC, etc.
I was lookin on rock auto and there is a knock off dual friction clutch for 200, may use that and then get a centerforce df disc since its 186 vs mcleod super street df disc at 278

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[Spartan7]

If you're looking for stock-ish street manners, organic is the way to go. For a little more holding power, you can consider a dual friction clutch, organic on one side and puck on the other. I have a RAM Powergrip that comes with a 300/900 disc and it drives pretty nice, although if you don't slip it enough it will grab. I've been driving mine for years and am pretty happy with it. However, I bought it many years ago, so I'm not up to speed on the recent quality of RAM.

[rentedmule]

I put one of the "m-pact" multifriction ones from Rockauto in my car this summer, I was also on a budget. My motor is basically stock but I beat on the car hard at auto-X. I've probably done 50+ high RPM launches on Nitto NT05's and all's well so far. There's a tiny bit of chatter when feathering the clutch at low RPMs (like backing into a parking spot) but otherwise the feel is good.

[96LT1355Z28]

We're a Spec dealer. A puck style clutch is going to be more aggressive than a full faced disc. Stock friction material is organic, what you plan to do with the car will be a variable in what clutch and friction material to go with. Spec PP's are modified to increase base pressure (clamp load when you off the clutch) and milled for the thickness of the friction material used. i.e. a 3+ has a thicker friction disc than a 1 so more material will be milled from the 3+ PP.

I've heard good things about Competition Clutch but I've never used or even had my hands on one.

OP you said it chatters now, I'd guess your flywheel is beat up and covered in hot spots. What ever clutch you go with make sure you get your flywheel surfaced, most shops will charge $50-$75 for it. Stay clean during install, keep dirt/dust/grease/oil from you hands off the friction disc/PP/FW. If your rear main is leaking fix it while the FW is off, oil will kill any clutch.

Hope this helps, feel free to ask questions!

[SSlowBoat]

We're a Spec dealer. A puck style clutch is going to be more aggressive than a full faced disc. Stock friction material is organic, what you plan to do with the car will be a variable in what clutch and friction material to go with. Spec PP's are modified to increase base pressure (clamp load when you off the clutch) and milled for the thickness of the friction material used. i.e. a 3+ has a thicker friction disc than a 1 so more material will be milled from the 3+ PP.

I've heard good things about Competition Clutch but I've never used or even had my hands on one.

OP you said it chatters now, I'd guess your flywheel is beat up and covered in hot spots. What ever clutch you go with make sure you get your flywheel surfaced, most shops will charge $50-$75 for it. Stay clean during install, keep dirt/dust/grease/oil from you hands off the friction disc/PP/FW. If your rear main is leaking fix it while the FW is off, oil will kill any clutch.

Hope this helps, feel free to ask questions!
Motor is coming out of car for all new gaskets/rear main. Im not even trying to screw with what past owners have done, hence why it will be new flywheel throwout clutch pp etc. I have plans for the car ie 2-3 years from now, but i dont feel its worth $800+ dollars for a clutch to run around with basic bolt ons for that long. I can spend the 3-400 dollar difference on other things the car needs for now.

When the beefy motor gets built and stage 2 or 3 tick goes in, a beefy clutch will go in.

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[SSlowBoat]

I put one of the "m-pact" multifriction ones from Rockauto in my car this summer, I was also on a budget. My motor is basically stock but I beat on the car hard at auto-X. I've probably done 50+ high RPM launches on Nitto NT05's and all's well so far. There's a tiny bit of chatter when feathering the clutch at low RPMs (like backing into a parking spot) but otherwise the feel is good.
A tiny bit of chatter is fine, even a decent amount of chatter i understand. But what this damn thing does sounds like something is definitely broke or way wrong

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[BALLSS]

IDK anything about the the kit at rockauto but the $ looks good and it is a DF clutch.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6357879&cc=1035931&jsn=459

[SSlowBoat]

IDK anything about the the kit at rockauto but the $ looks good and it is a DF clutch.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6357879&cc=1035931&jsn=459
I think im gonna do it with a new flywheel and spec square top throwout bearing

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[BALLSS]

I think im gonna do it with a new flywheel and spec square top throwout bearing

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yeah I use the square top TO bearing that came with my Spec 2+ now on my McLeod Street Twin.

[Mrmaroon]

When I got my M6 car it had a chatter noise I assumed was from the clutch. It got worse until I changed out my spark plugs.

Any time I have a plug or wire problem the tranny makes a long groaning noise even after I fully release the pedal at low RPM. This is mostly starting in 1st and again if I skip to 3rd or 4th. Any shift to a gear below 1200 RPM. When everything is working properly it only makes the chatter in 1st if I let it out moderately fast. I was certain it was the damn tranny/clutch or driveshaft even.

It was a night and day difference with plugs fixed. My #7 and #5 metal spark plug covers were arcing to the block.

May not be your problem, but has so far been my experience. This is with a stock car, stock clutch 40k miles. I changed the fluid 10k ago and it didn't affect the noise.