t56 to 4l80e 1996 firebird

[kris72079]

Well my t56 is gone and the 4l80 is about to go in. I installed a billet input shaft and forward clutch hub as well as tore it down to inspect it front to back. It also got a transgo hd2 kit and a few internal mods to the valve body and pump not to mention a Circle D single disc 3400rpm converter. Anyway, I'll try to keep up on the progress as it goes in and such...

[casey20000007]

I'm doing the same thing the hardest part is tryin to build the trans lines and make sure you get the proper trans cooler, make sure you run a stacked plate style cooler and run it in line with the radiator


Smoke tires not drugs

[casey20000007]

How's it coming along? Also make sure when you install the trans you install with the dipstick in the trans I made the mistake and forgot :( so now I gotta pull trans again to install it


Smoke tires not drugs

[dawdaw]

You have to pull the trans to install a dipstick?

Never heard of that

[Injuneer]

I'm doing the same thing the hardest part is tryin to build the trans lines and make sure you get the proper trans cooler, make sure you run a stacked plate style cooler and run it in line with the radiator


He won't have a radiator trans cooler, since his car appears to have started with a T56. I had that problem when I put the TH400 in my original T56 car. I know what the sticky says, but I had no problems with a Perma Cool fan assisted cooler in the drivers front fender. I have a trans temp gauge on the a-pillar, and the cooler will handle anything my engine can throw at the trans.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/members/injuneer-1133-albums-parts-misc-1762-picture-dcp03560-6617.jpg

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/members/injuneer-1133-albums-parts-misc-1762-picture-dcp04156a-6618.jpg

[casey20000007]

You have to pull the trans to install a dipstick?

Never heard of that

Since the 80e is bigger it's a really tight fit and I'm not able to get it between the trans and firewall bc of the bends in the tube


Smoke tires not drugs

[casey20000007]

He won't have a radiator trans cooler, since his car appears to have started with a T56. I had that problem when I put the TH400 in my original T56 car. I know what the sticky says, but I had no problems with a Perma Cool fan assisted cooler in the drivers front fender. I have a trans temp gauge on the a-pillar, and the cooler will handle anything my engine can throw at the trans.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/members/injuneer-1133-albums-parts-misc-1762-picture-dcp03560-6617.jpg

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/members/injuneer-1133-albums-parts-misc-1762-picture-dcp04156a-6618.jpg
My car was a t56 car as well and from what I've heard is the auto radiators and manual radiators were the same just gotta get the fittings


Smoke tires not drugs

[Injuneer]

Wasn't aware all the stock radiators are the same. I have a Griffin LT1-specific aluminum radiator that I bought when the car still had the T56, and they did not install the trans cooler.

[kris72079]

I have a cooler that I am mounting in front of the radiator, I see no issue with the pull type fans being able to handle the trans coooler duties as well. Being a t56 and a 24x swap there was a fair amount of wiring to do as well, harder trying to convert anything on a lt1 with an LS PCM, no biggie though. Mo

[kris72079]

Hoping to mock it all up today, gotta get it all in to get the SFC in and the mid mount torque arm in plus ensure enough room for 4" exhaust. Then all back out to get the rest of the wiring run, moving everything under the fenders. Putting my secondary fuel system under good and keeping the battery there too.

[casey20000007]

How's it coming along


Smoke tires not drugs

[kris72079]

Okay, haven't had much time to get back on here and post, but its all in. It really wasn't that bad going in. I did run into a couple difficulties that are either self-induced of unavoidable. First thing was in going in, I am doing it one-manned and without a lift so I ended up torquing the electrical connector against the trans tunnel not paying good enough attention while installing. That wasn't a real issue as I knew I was going to take it back out anyway. I just bought a new internal harness and swapped it out. The root cause was not clearancing the tunnel far enough on my first attempt. The second issue I encountered was there appeared to be adequate clearance for the forward trans cooler 90* fitting to be installed...there was not. I was able to accomplish this with the trans installed though. Also, for anyone out there running a 4L80E with a 9", a stock length driveshaft will be too long. My PST shaft was tight with my T56-9" setup but the additional length of the 80 makes it just too long. I am hoping to get a new shaft measured up in the next day oir two to get one on the way. Going PST again for sure. Once the new shaft is installed I will have my tuner over to do the segment swap and accomplish an idle run through the gears....

[kris72079]

In other news, my SFCs are welded in and my Trak-Pak torque arm is in. I had intended to cut the torque arm bushing mount off my T56 mount and modify it onto my 4L80 mount but decided against it. Although it would be nice to have a full length poly isolated torque arm in there I ultimately decided against it for a couple reasons: 1. the work, 2. the driveshaft tunnel is already pretty damn full with a 3" driveshaft and a 4" exhaust pipe, & maybe most importantly 3. I already had the trak-pak torque arm setup lying around in the garage. So besides that, I have been building my accessory load center in my console for powering my nitrous setup: controller, opener, heater, purge, my cutout, and my dedicated fuel system.

[casey20000007]

Okay, haven't had much time to get back on here and post, but its all in. It really wasn't that bad going in. I did run into a couple difficulties that are either self-induced of unavoidable. First thing was in going in, I am doing it one-manned and without a lift so I ended up torquing the electrical connector against the trans tunnel not paying good enough attention while installing. That wasn't a real issue as I knew I was going to take it back out anyway. I just bought a new internal harness and swapped it out. The root cause was not clearancing the tunnel far enough on my first attempt. The second issue I encountered was there appeared to be adequate clearance for the forward trans cooler 90* fitting to be installed...there was not. I was able to accomplish this with the trans installed though. Also, for anyone out there running a 4L80E with a 9", a stock length driveshaft will be too long. My PST shaft was tight with my T56-9" setup but the additional length of the 80 makes it just too long. I am hoping to get a new shaft measured up in the next day oir two to get one on the way. Going PST again for sure. Once the new shaft is installed I will have my tuner over to do the segment swap and accomplish an idle run through the gears....

When you get your measurements could you post em plz


Smoke tires not drugs

[kris72079]

When you get your measurements could you post em plz


Smoke tires not drugs
The measurement for the driveshaft is 44.25". That is measuring from the end of the tailshaft housing to the forward face of the rearend yoke (see diagram N, dimension X)
http://ltxtech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34567&stc=1

I ordered a PST steel 3"x.083" 1020 DOM shaft with upgraded Strange slip yoke and 1350 Spicer u-joints at each end.

[kris72079]

For future searches here is a breakdown of the 4L80E to LS1 PCM pinout for the conversion from T56 or 4L60E:

0411 PCM / PIN #-------------------DESCRIPTION-----------------------------CHANGE
C2 (red) / 2--------------------------TCC Power Control Solenoid-----------------4L80E pin S
C2 (red) / 6--------------------------Pressure Ctrl Solenoid High Ctrl--------------4L80E pin C
C2 (red) / 8--------------------------Pressure Ctrl Solenoid Low Ctrl--------------4L80E pin D
C2 (red) / 20-------------------------VSS Low Signal-----------------------------none
C2 (red) / 21-------------------------VSS High Signal-----------------------------none
C2 (red) / 22-------------------------ISS "A" Pin----------------------------------add from 4L80E ISS Connector "A" Pin
C2 (red) / 23-------------------------ISS "B" Pin----------------------------------add from 4L80E ISS Connector "B" Pin
C2 (red) / 42-------------------------TCC Solenoid Valve Ctrl----------------------remove
C2 (red) / 44 (T56)-------------------Reverse Lockout Solenoid--------------------remove
C2 (red) / 47-------------------------2-3 Shift Solenoid Ctrl (Solenoid B)-----------4L80E pin B
C2 (red) / 48-------------------------1-2 Shift Solenoid Ctrl (Solenoid A)-----------4L80E pin A
C2 (red) / 51--------------------------Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor--------------4L80E pin L
C2 (red) / 63--------------------------Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A---------4L80E pin N
C1 (blue) / 17-------------------------Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B---------4L80E pin R
C1 (blue) / 18-------------------------Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C---------4L80E pin P
C1 (blue) / 33 (req'd if t56)-------------TCC Brake Switch Signal--------------------PPL wire from Stop Lamp Switch (brake pedal)
C1 (blue) / 34 (accessory if from T56)---PNP Switch--------------------------------necessary if using/desiring stock shifter PNP switch
C1 (blue) / 41--------------------------Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor Grnd--------4L80E pin M
C1 (blue) / 79 (4L60E)------------------3-2 Shift Solenoid Ctrl----------------------remove
---------------------------------------Transmission Solenoid Power-----------------4L80E pin E to "Hot in Run" 12vdc power location

[kris72079]

Bear in mind this is for a 24x converted LTx...
For future searches here is a breakdown of the 4L80E to LS1 PCM pinout for the conversion from T56 or 4L60E:

0411 PCM / PIN #-------------------DESCRIPTION-----------------------------CHANGE
C2 (red) / 2--------------------------TCC Power Control Solenoid-----------------4L80E pin S
C2 (red) / 6--------------------------Pressure Ctrl Solenoid High Ctrl--------------4L80E pin C
C2 (red) / 8--------------------------Pressure Ctrl Solenoid Low Ctrl--------------4L80E pin D
C2 (red) / 20-------------------------VSS Low Signal-----------------------------none
C2 (red) / 21-------------------------VSS High Signal-----------------------------none
C2 (red) / 22-------------------------ISS "A" Pin----------------------------------add from 4L80E ISS Connector "A" Pin
C2 (red) / 23-------------------------ISS "B" Pin----------------------------------add from 4L80E ISS Connector "B" Pin
C2 (red) / 42-------------------------TCC Solenoid Valve Ctrl----------------------remove
C2 (red) / 44 (T56)-------------------Reverse Lockout Solenoid--------------------remove
C2 (red) / 47-------------------------2-3 Shift Solenoid Ctrl (Solenoid B)-----------4L80E pin B
C2 (red) / 48-------------------------1-2 Shift Solenoid Ctrl (Solenoid A)-----------4L80E pin A
C2 (red) / 51--------------------------Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor--------------4L80E pin L
C2 (red) / 63--------------------------Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A---------4L80E pin N
C1 (blue) / 17-------------------------Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B---------4L80E pin R
C1 (blue) / 18-------------------------Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C---------4L80E pin P
C1 (blue) / 33 (req'd if t56)-------------TCC Brake Switch Signal--------------------PPL wire from Stop Lamp Switch (brake pedal)
C1 (blue) / 34 (accessory if from T56)---PNP Switch--------------------------------necessary if using/desiring stock shifter PNP switch
C1 (blue) / 41--------------------------Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor Grnd--------4L80E pin M
C1 (blue) / 79 (4L60E)------------------3-2 Shift Solenoid Ctrl----------------------remove
---------------------------------------Transmission Solenoid Power-----------------4L80E pin E to "Hot in Run" 12vdc power location

[Camaro96]

Nice write up.

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk

[kris72079]

Ok, so I ended up talking with the guys at PST (GREAT GUYS) regarding my driveshaft with regards to the tailshaft seal on the trans. It protrudes about 3/4" beyond the output shaft. I ended up taking 1/4"off the length and it fits perfect! Been tough finding time to get much done but have done a bit more wiring and relocating fuel lines for asthetics...