which clutch?

[jseal-57]

what clutch would be best for me? spec 2+ or spec 3? car is mostly street with the odd trip to the track. its going to have a 383 with a little bit of nitrous. and i have 4.10 in the rear if that makes a difference.

[Fastbird]

I'd go 3 or 3+. I had a 2+ in my car when it was mild head/cam setup and it would bark 4th on the highway, but I don't know how long it would take the abuse. Buddy of mine runs a 3+ in his 700 RWHP blower 383 setup and it's been a good clutch.

[Blackbird96WS6]

I put a 3+ in mine and it feels almost exactly like the original stock clutch, very very minor differences. Eeeasily streetable no issue, and should hold up to plenty of power and abuse. casey20000007 also ran a Spec 3+ in his car with a 383 and liked it as far as I know.

[casey20000007]

I loved my spec3+ the only thing I'll have to warn you on is DO NOT get the bitch hot, stupid muffler shop guy rode my clutch when he was pulling it in and it was never the same after that, it started whining :( pulled clutch off two weeks ago and the clutch was really glazed over like a glazed donut hahahaha and had about 1/16 or less of pad left but other than that I was really happy with the clutch, if I was not going to a 4l80e I'd get another one


SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS

[96z28SideSwype]

I've been following this one quick question what's the difference between the spec 3 and 3+?


Silver 96 Z28 SideSwype-DD
Green 96 Z28 NightMare-Drag car

[Blackbird96WS6]

Spec 3 = 6-puck disc (on/off engagement)
Spec 3+ = full-face disk (thus the stock-like driveability)

[jseal-57]

so the 3+ would be more driveable then the 3?
also flywheel steel or alum?

[Blackbird96WS6]

Yes, the 3+ is just as easily driveable as the OEM clutch. Flywheel is up to you, I kept an OEM steel flywheel in mine just to keep the rotating mass up and keep it easy to drive. I've heard from a couple of other guys that lightweight aluminum flywheels take a bit of getting used to at first, as you have to rev the engine more to keep it spinning as you start to engage the clutch, so the first few times you drive it, you'll be more prone to choking it out and killing it. But they said they did get used to it and now it's just as easy as anything else to them, so it's really up to you on that.

P.S. - I get stuck driving mine in traffic a lot, usually, which is why I wanted to keep the driveability as close to stock as possible. If you're not stuck in bumper to bumper traffic like me all the time, the aluminum probably wouldn't be that bad at all lol. Food for thought, pick your parts to help you based on your own driving habits. :)

[jseal-57]

3+ and steel it is :)

[Blackbird96WS6]

Make sure to hit up 96LT1355Z28, he got me a good deal on my Spec 3+ kit.

[jseal-57]

alrighty will do. just gotta wait tell the dollars are closer again. lol

[96z28SideSwype]

So for a car that will rarely see traffic the 3 is better?


Silver 96 Z28 SideSwype-DD
Green 96 Z28 NightMare-Drag car

[Blackbird96WS6]

If your intent is more of a race car build and you want the on/off engagement style, then sure.

[Fastbird]

I'm a big fan of the Spec Billet Flywheel. Used it on my 2+ and the combination was great. Plus it's light and a very quality piece.

Oh, and if you're putting the clutch in yourself, setting it up properly, torquing in sequence in steps, and a PROPER break in is instrumental to making the clutch live. A LOT of the people who've had issues with Spec clutches can have said issues traced to poor installation or break in.