Clutch hydraulics

[97firehawk]

Anyone using this tick performance clutch master cylinder and is it holding up and how's the fit ? I'm sick of killing my clutch hydraulics I only get maybe a half of a season on them it's crap, I need something that can handle a beat down .
This year I only drove the car to race my cousin and killed the damn thin again




93-97 LT1 Fbody Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder | WS6store.com
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/93-97-lt1-fbody-tick-performance-adjustable-clutch-master-cylinder/

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[Fastbird]

Ben has one on his car. He wanted me to removed it because of how heavy the pedal is with it (I personally LOVE it). It's a nice piece, fits well, but it's proprietary. When we went to replace Ben's with a stock piece, we found the hose is an -AN piece as shown here (didn't know that before as I didn't do the install on his car), and the replacement clutch hydraulic line is something like $150!!!!

I'm curious though.......what keeps failing? I've been running a modded stock master cylinder on my car with a street twin and beat up on it pretty good, no issues noted.

[MeanTA]

Like Fastbird said, what is going wrong with it? My stock hydrolic system has held up fine. And I beat on my car pretty hard.

[97firehawk]

Thanks. I'm not sure I can't find any leaks when I replaced them and I didn't notice anything being bent but the issue is after some good beat down time I can't get it to pull the clutch off of the flywheel and it will drag even after letting it cool off and once I change the hydraulics it perfect for a while I've had the transmission out and the clutch still looks great it's frustrating

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[Fastbird]

Air in the lines still?

[97firehawk]

Air in the lines still?

I suppose it's possible but when I replaced them I did the GM complete kit with the master and slave pre bleed

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[Fastbird]

How close is the line to the header/collector/exhaust? Could be you're baking it.

[97firehawk]

Hmm I'll have to double check that , I remember making sure I had it as far away as I could from the the header but hell it's still pretty tight in there I really didn't think of boiling the fluid I know it's not on the header but I suppose under them beat down sessions it gets pretty damn hot right there maybe I'll try and wrap it to shield it I think it's worth a shot Thanks.

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[BALLSS]

OP

if you are running a single disc LT1 clutch than stock MC/slave hydraulics should work fine. If running a twin disc you need the larger 13/16" MC. I use the McLeod but I have their street twin.

I suspect your slave may be more the problem. Either leaks or gets to much heat from headers. If the later, wrap it with some form of heat wrap.

One nice thing about adjustable MC's is you can extend the travel by adjusting the rod length so maybe that is what you need to disengage your hot clutch under race conditions. The TICK has great reviews and you can also get the McLeod, made by Wilwood, also

[97firehawk]

OP

if you are running a single disc LT1 clutch than stock MC/slave hydraulics should work fine. If running a twin disc you need the larger 13/16" MC. I use the McLeod but I have their street twin.

I suspect your slave may be more the problem. Either leaks or gets to much heat from headers. If the later, wrap it with some form of heat wrap.

One nice thing about adjustable MC's is you can extend the travel by adjusting the rod length so maybe that is what you need to disengage your hot clutch under race conditions. The TICK has great reviews and you can also get the McLeod, made by Wilwood, also

I do have a single disc it's a ram power grip HD kit and matching aluminum flywheel I will look into this thanks I had no idea that McLeod made one thanks for that as well.

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[BALLSS]

I had no idea that McLeod made one thanks for that as well.

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McLeod uses the Wilwood "compact" MC but make the "mounting" adapter per vehicle application and the "adjustable" rod part. It is available in stock 3/4" bore and the larger 13/16" bore MC. The larger one will push more fluid and have about a 10% higher pedel feel in terms of effort. It is required with a twin disc clutch and would also work with a single and most likely shorten the pedal travel also. It comes with new braided line and fitting to attach to the "pin" connection of a OEM slave.

[Fastbird]

The McLeod master cylinder is NOT required with the street twin. That's just what they say and want you to believe. I have beat the piss out of a stock master with the adjustable modification with my Street Twin.

[BALLSS]

Glad your twin works well with the stock MC"modified" with an adjustable rod.

My twin came with the larger MC when I bought it through JEGS about a year ago.I am not a clutch manufacturer but I defer to McLeod for theirknowledge...which is to use the larger bore 13/16"/adjustable rod MC withthe LT1 "pull" street twin. I am sure if they felt it was notnecessary they would not include it with their clutch and sell it for cheaper.

By extending a stock MC you can get the increased volume of fluid to push theslave further. A larger MC will allow for shorter travel since it moves more volumeof fluid

McLeod has made improvements for the street twin for LT1over the years. They used to provide the Tilton MC with it but that unit hadissues tearing the rubber cup in the MC