9 inch - opinions needed

[Green94Maro]

Hey guys, I'm getting close to ordering my QP 9 inch rear end and I was looking to get a few opinions about what route I should go. Right now I am trying to decide between a posi unit and a spool. I have read countless threads on different forums about how terrible the spool is for any amount of street driving. I was really wanting to go with a full spool for a couple reasons: 1) It is cheaper than the posi unit and I'm not exactly loaded with money at this point and 2) I like the idea of the full spool being so strong. I have never been one to care much about handling and carving corners because I prefer straight line. The car is not a daily driver and I drive it a couple nights a week during the summer on the street and it never sees rain. I will be hitting up the track next summer and I want to make sure I have a rear end that will last me a long time. Can you guys give me your opinions on what you would do? Any help would be great guys. Thanks

[popo8]

if its gonna be a cruiser/track car... and no rain... a spool should be fine.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[Green94Maro]

That is what I was hoping to hear. Thanks for your input

[dawdaw]

Yes spool is fine, do not give it any gas going around a corner though trying to hot rod it. if it's not seeing a ton of street duty and mostly straight line a spool will work just fine. It does have less rotational mass then a posi, get a steel one to. just wondering what center section are you getting?

[Green94Maro]

Yes spool is fine, do not give it any gas going around a corner though trying to hot rod it. if it's not seeing a ton of street duty and mostly straight line a spool will work just fine. It does have less rotational mass then a posi, get a steel one to. just wondering what center section are you getting?

Well quick performance has their re-conditioned ford center sections that I can get for $565. That's for the third member, gears, spool and the yoke. That seems like a good deal, but I figured I should just spend the extra money and get the Strange nodular iron center section that QP has available. Any suggestions as to which center section to go with?

[dawdaw]

hands down no questions asked get the strange!!!!! do not get that ford case. even if it's a few hundred more you will thank yourself in the long run. the strange nodular is a good case, put a 1350 series yoke and a Daytona style bearing support for good oiling and a spool and some 35 spine axles and you will be happy. I just got on there website and it's a 400 dollar difference. that old ford stuff was garbage, a lot of it broke.

[Green94Maro]

hands down no questions asked get the strange!!!!! do not get that ford case. even if it's a few hundred more you will thank yourself in the long run. the strange nodular is a good case, put a 1350 series yoke and a Daytona style bearing support for good oiling and a spool and some 35 spine axles and you will be happy. I just got on there website and it's a 400 dollar difference. that old ford stuff was garbage, a lot of it broke.

I really appreciate your help. I'm intending on the following options:

- Strange Nodular Iron center section
- Motive 4.11 gears
- Spool
- Aluminum Daytona, Nodular Iron Daytona, or Billet Steel <---(Not sure what the benefits of each one are. Any help?)
- Billet Steel 1350 yoke
- 35 Spline Moser Axles

As I said above, I am not sure what pinion support to go with.

The last thing I am not sure about is what wheel studs I should go with. The options they give me are for Moser axle wheel studs and they are as follows:
- 12mm Stock Length
- 1/2"-20x2"
- 1/2"-20x3"
- 5/8" Drag x 2" [+$65.00]
- 5/8 Drag x 3" [+$65.00]

[dawdaw]

well the Daytona is nothing more then the bearing support, it can be nodular, aluminum, or billet. Most go for the aluminum one and they have no durability issues with them. When I called quick performance like 6 months ago before I ordered my rearend threw Midwest chassis, they recommended the aluminum support. I would either go with the 1/2 or 5/8 studs. 5/8 is strongest. doing things right the first time will definitely save you chunk of change. everything else looks good, are you assembling it or are they? use permatex black stuff or something similar on the 3rd member and don't use a gasket, it will never leak that way.

[Green94Maro]

I'm going to have Quick Performance assemble it. I only live an hour from their shop, so it'll be nice not having to worry about them shipping it. Will I have any problems going to the 1/2" or 5/8" studs as far as what wheels I can use? And will the studs stick out quite a bit if I go with the 3" studs? Sorry for all the questions. This is my first time having a rear end built as you can tell haha

[dawdaw]

nah not really, I had 2.5 x12mm on my old rear end and they didn't stick out hardly at all. a 3" will a bit. I honestly don't know about the wheels, I don't see why It would but maybe someone else can chime in.

[Injuneer]

I have 1/2"x3" screw in studs on my 12-bolt. Work great with Weld Pro-Stars, but with ZR1/GS street wheels in the rear, they stick out of the lugs by about 1/2". I solved the problem by getting a "duplex" (double length) closed end lug nut, drilling the end and tapping it. Now the end of the stud is just about even with the end of the lug nut, but still visible.

[Green94Maro]

I've been planning on getting either Weld Pro Stars or Race Star Dark Stars. Any reason why I should run 1/2"x3" instead of 1/2"x2"?

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[Injuneer]

NHRA tech requires that the lug nuts engage a length of thread equal to one diameter of the stud, IN THE HEX PORTION OF THE LUG NUT. The stud has to be long enough for the portion that passes through the axle hub, the portion that passes through the brake rotor, the portion that passes through the shank of the lug nut required for a Weld Pro Star (or DragLight) wheel.... and then is has to have 1/2" thread engagement in the hex portion of the lug nut. They will not give you any credit for the thread engagement of the shank.

If you add the hub, the rotor and the shank together, you are up to about 1.75". Add 0.50" required in the hex head and you are at 2.25". A 2" stud is not long enough. I tried to run the stock studs in the front with my Welds, and they told me that they would let me run for the day, but if I came back again, I had to have the right length front studs, or I could go home.

You could get by with a 2-1/2" stud. I have 12mm x 2.67" studs in the front, but the end 3/8" is an unthreaded portion, intended to help you get the wheel over the studs. If you measure the depth of the thread inside the lug, not counting the unthreaded length, It is technically a shade too short. I do have a 5/16" spacer in the front to that makes it worse.

[96LT1355Z28]

I would go with a 5/8" stud, like Injuneer and Dawdaw have said wheel type will determine how long you'll need to be NHRA legal.

[ZOHAN]

I have 1/2"x3" on back and 12x3.5" on the front. ;)

Making you silky smooth...