95pcm in a 96 car

[Ugod02010]

Hey guys I'm working on swapping my 95formula drivetrain to a 96t/a. I wondering can I jut plug my PCM in and go or does anything need changed so I can still use the Aldl cable I have. The cable is for the obd 1.5. The obd2 plug but obd1 protocol?

[Injuneer]

96 harness will plug into the 95 PCM. Just make sure the tan data wire is on the correct pin in the 96 16-pin ALDL connector. I would also disconnect any ALDL connector wires that are not used by the 95 setup.

Courtesy of Shoebox:

This diagram shows both ALDL connector pinouts:

http://shbox.com/1/DLC_wiring.jpg

The harness connector tables in this link show the difference between the 95 and 96 in red. As I mentioned in the other post, it's just the rear O2 sensors, the EVAP purge vacuum switch, the CKP sensor, and in this case the serial data wire.

http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm_conn_d.jpg

[Ugod02010]

Thanks man!! That's what I was looking for!

[Ugod02010]

So basically if the tan wire is anywhere besides pin #9 move it to the #9? Then the other wires that are in red on the second link just cut them and dead them off? Well it's only one.

[Injuneer]

The both show the tan data wire on pin #9.

[wysemunky]

The knock sensor is different too, but if your using the 95 drivetrain then you should already have the correct sensor on the engine.

[popo8]

The knock sensor is different too, but if your using the 95 drivetrain then you should already have the correct sensor on the engine.

or if u use an lt4 knock module the conputer wont care about the dif resist in the knock sensors.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[SMok3 Em A11]

OP will be using 95 engine,trans, harness, and pcm. Only difference is 96 body and cabin harness under dash.

[Injuneer]

or if u use an lt4 knock module the conputer wont care about the dif resist in the knock sensors.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

Not correct. 93-95 need a 4,000 ohm unit, 96/97 need the 100,000 ohm sensor. Mismatching the sensor with the PCM will set a code for the knock sensor, and the PCM will start pulling significant amounts of ignition timing based on engine operating conditions. You can alter the PCM internally to compensate for the mismatch, but not by using the LT4KM.

[Ugod02010]

Injuneer I notice that in the enter console of the 96 the plug is there for my trans perform button. Can I just plug it in and it works ? Or is there something that needs done? All the pins on the back of the actual switch have mates in the wires. Also I am gonna be using the 95s PCM so it worked in that car.

[Ugod02010]

Good to know about the knock module

[popo8]

Not correct. 93-95 need a 4,000 ohm unit, 96/97 need the 100,000 ohm sensor. Mismatching the sensor with the PCM will set a code for the knock sensor, and the PCM will start pulling significant amounts of ignition timing based on engine operating conditions. You can alter the PCM internally to compensate for the mismatch, but not by using the LT4KM.


The tuner told me they did something in the computer...not the resistor...and did not change the sensor.

But JPack explained something avout the lt4 knock mod allowing the same thing to happen.

My car is running the same knock sensor...with the obd1 conversion.

And it works.

JPack was able to explain it before.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[Injuneer]

I have no idea if the wiring in the 96 would be compatible, since I don't think the 96 had a trans performance feature. Whether they just left the wiring there, and eliminated the switch I really don't know. I do know that Shoebox has a procedure for adding the performance button to the 94/95 Camaro, which did not have the button. The wiring seems so simple that I would just try connecting the harness connector and your 95 console switch and see if it works. If not, it would probalby a simple wiring change.

http://shbox.com/1/tpbutton_diag.jpg

[bobdec]

as far as knock sensor mod.. here is some more info.. The ODB1 KS has an internal resistance of 3300 to 4500 ohms, the OBD2 KS resistance is 93K to 107K ohms. The fix is to put a 3900 ohm resistor in parallel with the knock sensor (blue wire to ground, external fix) or inside the OBD1 PCM (internal fix). By putting a 3900 ohm resistor in parallel with the 100K OBD2 KS the resistance changes to around 4000 ohms which is in range for the PCM. The sensitivity of the KS does not change. Here is a post of the internal fix which is more flexible as you can swap the OBD1 and OBD2 PCM back and forth (emission testing, etc) w/o having to remove the resistor. scroll to post #11 for a pic.. Internal PCM Resistor Mod: OBDII to OBDI Conversion? - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board (http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=519946)

And here is more detail than you may want to read on the performance switch.. as previously mentioned it was not in the '96 , but maybe the wiring is still there . http://www.trifectaperformance.com/tech/LT1TransmissionPerformanceMode.htm I added one in my '94 Z28 that I use when I want to play around with different shifting and pressure points..

[Ugod02010]

I have no idea if the wiring in the 96 would be compatible, since I don't think the 96 had a trans performance feature. Whether they just left the wiring there, and eliminated the switch I really don't know. I do know that Shoebox has a procedure for adding the performance button to the 94/95 Camaro, which did not have the button. The wiring seems so simple that I would just try connecting the harness connector and your 95 console switch and see if it works. If not, it would probalby a simple wiring change.

http://shbox.com/1/tpbutton_diag.jpg
Thanks man. Appreciate it

[Ugod02010]

I'll post up an let u guys know what I find out. So if the question gets asked again in the future we have an answer

[JPack]

There wasn't any lt4 knock sensor, just the module in the pcm. So 94-97 can use either knock sensor with an lt4 knock module.

[popo8]

There wasn't any lt4 knock sensor, just the module in the pcm. So 94-97 can use either knock sensor with an lt4 knock module.

thanku...

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[MoeHorsePower]

People tend to get confused on the Knock Module vs sensor, The Knock Sensor is the one on the block on the passenger side, the Module is in the PCM via the little access door. The ohm readings are different as said and will pull timing, But you can go into the PCM on the knock retard tables and desensitize or reduce or zero out the amount of timing the PCM will pull. I prefer to change out the module so I can leave some safety factor for any detonation especially in Nitrous setups and in Force Induction motors...

[Ugod02010]

I emailed rob(shoebox) he didn't have an answe either about the perform button. I almost have the car back together to the point where I'm gonna be starting it in the next day or so. So I will let u guys know what happens with the button. 25574Here's the wiring in the 96 t/a. It's the exact same a the 95 where it plugged into the switch. The dirt/crud on it makes it look like originally it wasn't plugged into anything. So the wiring maybe there on some or all of the 96trans ams as well. Kind of a small detail but maybe this will help someone wanting to add the feature to their car. I like it personally it really firms the shifts up. (Almost seems to be have a bit more power) could just be true to the higher and harder shift points, or maybe I'm just ��

[Injuneer]

DataMaster has a "bit" flag that will tell you if the PCM has engaged the "performance" switch.

You can adjust the shift firmness in the program.

[Ugod02010]

I know what ur talking bout I've seen it. I wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks!
Another scanner program I have that reads real time stuff also has the perform/normal trans input it says

[Ugod02010]

Alright. I have everything (think) hooked back up. I'm not getting any power tho to the fuel pump. Don't hear it prime, and also I'm not getting any spark. I noticed on the wire harness right where the PCM is there is the two plugs, my slot D on the bigger harness doesn't have a wire (it does on the 95) does it need power or a ground? Where does it go that I don't have it on the 96? I have some pics should help!

[Ugod02010]

25663U can see the second one in it has the letter D. There's an orange wire on the 95 that goes there

[Ugod02010]

25664This is the PCM/ engine side of the harness. It's only missing a wire on the end. There's a wire coming out on here

[Ugod02010]

25665Another shot of the side of the car. I tried to follow where the wire goes in the 95, but it runs down where the headlight wires and everything up from by the battery and I didn't wanna pull all the loom off everything

[Ugod02010]

I'm guessing since this is the only one that has orange listed it must be the one?

[JCzNova]

Are you looking at this connector?

25670

[Ugod02010]

I also tried plugging the laptop in to see if it was reading when the key was on. It says connected but none of the sensors move at all so it really seems like I'm missing a power or something.
Sorry so many post to explain but my phone likes to go crazy and I I true to type it all it would have crashed an I would have had to start over 6x anyways. Lol

[Ugod02010]

It maybe the one for the headlights. Ia that the schematic for the plugs right at the PCM there?

[JCzNova]

It maybe the one for the headlights. Ia that the schematic for the plugs right at the PCM there?

Had to change pics.... Uploaded the wrong one. I am a little confused on what you are looking for though. You have an extra wire, or are missing a wire?

[Ugod02010]

The wire colors are different than those ones u listed.
A- pink
B- grn/wht
C- grn
D- not there on 96 on the 95 it's orange
E- brn
F- brn
G pink
H- blu
J- grn
k- open on both

[Ugod02010]

On D on the PCM side I there is a orange wire also. It's just not there on the 96. So I think I'm missing a wire

[JCzNova]

On D on the PCM side I there is a orange wire also. It's just not there on the 96. So I think I'm missing a wire

Yes PIN D on the 95 PCM requires power. On the 95 car it comes from Fuse #8 (PCM)

First pic is 96 and the chart is the 95.

2567225673

[Ugod02010]

Awesome! Hopefully that's the problem. Thank u! Nice to cuz u even have where it comes from. I would have been looking forever for that.

[JCzNova]

96 PCM is showing Fuse 13 as providing power.

If you run a wire to "D" on that connector, it is going to need to be hot in run AND crank.

I would recommend running a pin in there with a wire with a stripped tail, and then just running a jumper from it straight to the battery or positive posts right behind the battery.

That will tell you if it will work with a +12V, hot in run and crank.

[Ugod02010]

So far this is the only difference changing things over.

[Ugod02010]

So should I run a wire to fuse 8 in the engine fuse box? Or go to 13?
That's all I have to do right?
Okay I'll try it right there first.

[JCzNova]

So should I run a wire to fuse 8 in the engine fuse box? Or go to 13?
That's all I have to do right?
Okay I'll try it right there first.

I had to zoom in. It is fuse 3 on the 96 body, not 13. Sorry.

Yes, I will try jumped straight from the battery right there.... With an inline fusible link or fuse ! ! ! Just to be safe.

[Ugod02010]

I was thinking bout the little inline fuse. The car cranks, just no spark, and I don't think the fuel pumps kicking on either. Unless I jump a power right to the wire, would that one wire do that?

[JCzNova]

I was thinking bout the little inline fuse. The car cranks, just no spark, and I don't think the fuel pumps kicking on either. Unless I jump a power right to the wire, would that one wire do that?

That wire is battery power for the ECM and I can't tell you what the PCM is doing on the inside.

You could check the fuel pump relay wire coming out of the PCM to see if it is sending power to the relay.

Also not sure on the VATS/Security side of things and if any of that could be telling the PCM to not turn on the pump.

Do you have this connector? It would be red, and will turn the pump on with 12V straight to it. That will tell you outside the PCM is good to the pump.
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg

[Ugod02010]

I ran a power to there the pump kicks on and primed everything

[Ugod02010]

Does that mean then all the wire is right up the PCM and stuff. Or does that jumper wire run directly back to the pump?

[Ugod02010]

Also bud just to be clear, that last wire schematic was of that one wire harness/plug that's also in the picture here from shbox.com

[JCzNova]

Does that mean then all the wire is right up the PCM and stuff. Or does that jumper wire run directly back to the pump?


Also bud just to be clear, that last wire schematic was of that one wire harness/plug that's also in the picture here from shbox.com

That powers the relay to power the pump, so wiring and everything east of the PCM is good for fuel.

Yes, the shbox was of that plug on the last schematic. My last schematic post puts the two pics together. The top connector and chart is the 96, and the bottom half of the chart starting again at "A" is the 95.

So did you jump 12V to the "D" pin?

[Ugod02010]

Nah. I'm all finished for today. I'll try it first thing tomorrow I'm anxious to hear her purr!

[JCzNova]

Nah. I'm all finished for today. I'll try it first thing tomorrow I'm anxious to hear her purr!

Me too! Let me know how it goes. If that jumper doesn't do it, I will look over the schematics again and see if there are anymore "power" wires missing or different.

[Ugod02010]

Awesome. Thanks! I'm gonna check it out here in a little bit. Just went down to start the kerosene heater, and let it warm up a bit.
So far I haven't noticed any differences really. The cruise cable is a little different where it connects to the bracket that holds it to the intake manifold. It will stay but just don't "lock" quite like it should.

I'm not even sure what made me look at those wires there but I'm glad and hope that's the issue! I've done a few engine swaps but this is my first LTx.

[Ugod02010]

Kinda off topic, is ur Z arctic white? I think the paint is to far gone on most of the t/a I got from Chris so I'm gonna be repainting it eventually. I'm staying white gonna probably do arctic white, 96t/a it's called something else but it's the same code. I was thinking bout doing the roof black also I like that look breaks up all the white.

[Ugod02010]

I snagged that wire outta the 95 and run it right to the bat+ right where they split on the fender. Still no power. I'm putting the driveshaft, torque arm on tight now so I'm gonna look for any ground or something maybe I missed.

[Ugod02010]

Ugh. Nothing sticking out like I missed anything. Did u see any differences other than the one I just did?

[JCzNova]

Kinda off topic, is ur Z arctic white? I think the paint is to far gone on most of the t/a I got from Chris so I'm gonna be repainting it eventually. I'm staying white gonna probably do arctic white, 96t/a it's called something else but it's the same code. I was thinking bout doing the roof black also I like that look breaks up all the white.

It is white plasti-dip over original red paint. Bought it that way, and I am up in the air between red and white now. I plan to just re-dip it as he used the rattle cans (probably took 100 of them) and I am spraying with the gun.


I snagged that wire outta the 95 and run it right to the bat+ right where they split on the fender. Still no power. I'm putting the driveshaft, torque arm on tight now so I'm gonna look for any ground or something maybe I missed.


Ugh. Nothing sticking out like I missed anything. Did u see any differences other than the one I just did?

I have my son's soccer game in a little bit, but I will check over the electrical when I get back this afternoon.

[Ugod02010]

In the pic that thing looks really really good.
Thanks appreciate it

[JCzNova]

In the pic that thing looks really really good.
Thanks appreciate it

Thanks, it has some texture and issues up close. It's a good "10-footer." The dip really grabbed every bit of grease off my hands around the hood on the fenders too. Not sure if the dip wash would take it off, but it needs to be redone anyway. May take the kids up this weekend to let them do some peeling.

[JCzNova]

OK, here we go.

'95 PCM needs the following:

-B+ from instrument panel fuse #4 10A to pins B15 & B31 (Orange wires)

-IGN power feed from instrument panel fuse #5 15A to pins B30 & D3 (Pink wires)

-Ignition Control is pin B5 output from PCM to ICM pin B (white wire)

-Underhood fuse #11 is the same on both years, provides IGN power to ICM Pin A (PNK/BLK wire)

If you want to start checking these, I will continue to comb and add...


Adding:

-Theft Deterrent Module Fuel Enable is the same on both, pin A25 (DK BLU wire)

-PCM pins that should have ground: A2, C32 (BLK/WHT); A18, D1 (TAN/WHT)

[Ugod02010]

So all these are wires on te PCM itself right? I'm gonna head down n check all those in a couple min. I'll post up my findings in a few those shouldn't take long.

[JCzNova]

So all these are wires on te PCM itself right? I'm gonna head down n check all those in a couple min. I'll post up my findings in a few those shouldn't take long.

Yes, I would make sure that PCM is getting power in the correct places before troubleshooting elsewhere. The prime connector showed us the pump, relay and wiring are good.

If that PCM isn't getting the right power it can't give the right power to fuel or spark.

You still have the OBD2 DLC on the car or did you swap in the OBD1?

[Ugod02010]

What's that. The silver box under the dash. I left those alone also the black boxes under there I kept them in original cars also

[JCzNova]

Kinda off topic, is ur Z arctic white? I think the paint is to far gone on most of the t/a I got from Chris so I'm gonna be repainting it eventually. I'm staying white gonna probably do arctic white, 96t/a it's called something else but it's the same code. I was thinking bout doing the roof black also I like that look breaks up all the white.


I snagged that wire outta the 95 and run it right to the bat+ right where they split on the fender. Still no power. I'm putting the driveshaft, torque arm on tight now so I'm gonna look for any ground or something maybe I missed.


Ugh. Nothing sticking out like I missed anything. Did u see any differences other than the one I just did?


What's that. The silver box under the dash. I left those alone also the black boxes under there I kept them in original cars also

Data Link COnnector, OBD plug under the dash for a scanner. So you kept the 96 OBD-2?

[Ugod02010]

Yeah. Injuneer said as long as te tan wire was where it was on the 95 car I shouldn't have to change anything. Which it was in the same spot. I didn't look at the other colors or where they were pinned at tho. I figured since I had the obd2 plug on the 95 it should be te same on the 96

[JCzNova]

Kinda off topic, is ur Z arctic white? I think the paint is to far gone on most of the t/a I got from Chris so I'm gonna be repainting it eventually. I'm staying white gonna probably do arctic white, 96t/a it's called something else but it's the same code. I was thinking bout doing the roof black also I like that look breaks up all the white.


I snagged that wire outta the 95 and run it right to the bat+ right where they split on the fender. Still no power. I'm putting the driveshaft, torque arm on tight now so I'm gonna look for any ground or something maybe I missed.


Ugh. Nothing sticking out like I missed anything. Did u see any differences other than the one I just did?


Yeah. Injuneer said as long as te tan wire was where it was on the 95 car I shouldn't have to change anything. Which it was in the same spot. I didn't look at the other colors or where they were pinned at tho. I figured since I had the obd2 plug on the 95 it should be te same on the 96

You might want to try jumping and see if you are getting any codes.

[Ugod02010]

No codes. Seems like the laptop isn't getting a feed from the PCM. Everything is te same on the dlc connectors. The 95 (old car) has a wire on the top right it's black I think white stripe. All the rest are same. Colors and locations

[Ugod02010]

This one says there's another power for the PCM in the 96. But I shouldn't need that one right? Since I'm using the 95

http://shbox.com/1/harness_connector_faces.htm

[JCzNova]

This one says there's another power for the PCM in the 96. But I shouldn't need that one right? Since I'm using the 95

http://shbox.com/1/harness_connector_faces.htm

Which pin are you seeing an extra power for on the 96?

[Ugod02010]

C220 pin E. The white connector inside car. Kick panel on the pass side

[Ugod02010]

I'm not getting any power for the PCM stuff. I pulled the red connector for the PCM. Checked a couple grounds with my led. They're working. Just no power on the couple wires that should have power bow

[JCzNova]

I'm not getting any power for the PCM stuff. I pulled the red connector for the PCM. Checked a couple grounds with my led. They're working. Just no power on the couple wires that should have power bow

I bet the pin E is the change in years where you needed the pin D under the hood.

[Ugod02010]

I was thinking same thing. I just have a pwr rubbing up to the splitter 4 now

[JCzNova]

I was thinking same thing. I just have a pwr rubbing up to the splitter 4 now

With that do u hear the pump prime now?

[SMok3 Em A11]

I'm confused? Since you are using the 95 harness and pcm shouldn't the only issues be at the body harness? Maybe I just miss read something.

[Ugod02010]

^kinda what I'm thinking Chris. I have no power in the PCM so I'm looking where they connect in the pass side kick panel and see if there's a power missing around there somewhere

[Ugod02010]

I don't know if I need to get a power wire here for this orange wire. I don't think it has a hookup for it on the 95 wiring so shouldn't need it?

[Ugod02010]

http://shbox.com/1/harness_connector_faces.htm

[JCzNova]

I thought u had the 96 harness still in and were throwing in a 95 PCM for some reason.

[Ugod02010]

Like we said earlier I think that maybe the difference on the or I have run right to the batt+ now

[Ugod02010]

I used the 95 engine harness right where it unplugs right at the kick panel and on the shock tower.

[SMok3 Em A11]

I thought u had the 96 harness still in and were throwing in a 95 PCM for some reason.

This was his plan when he starred this thread but it changed just before I sent him the car. I kept the 96 harness and he hooked all his 95 stuff up to the car. Only wiring that was left was under the dash and around to the under Hood fuse box.

[Ugod02010]

What is the big silver box on the 95 the 96 doesn't have it here's a pic25688

[JCzNova]

Airbag computer?

It is the flight recorder, because Birds fly, Camaros don't!

[Ugod02010]

Might have found it. On the blue connector I don't have power coming in for PCM like the 95 says it has.? See that one anywhere it's blue connector pin G

[JCzNova]

Location? How many pins on it total?

[Ugod02010]

If I throw the battery in the 95 and check to see if that one plug on the blue one has power all the time I guess would be the easiest way to check?

[JCzNova]

Kinda off topic, is ur Z arctic white? I think the paint is to far gone on most of the t/a I got from Chris so I'm gonna be repainting it eventually. I'm staying white gonna probably do arctic white, 96t/a it's called something else but it's the same code. I was thinking bout doing the roof black also I like that look breaks up all the white.


I snagged that wire outta the 95 and run it right to the bat+ right where they split on the fender. Still no power. I'm putting the driveshaft, torque arm on tight now so I'm gonna look for any ground or something maybe I missed.


Ugh. Nothing sticking out like I missed anything. Did u see any differences other than the one I just did?


If I throw the battery in the 95 and check to see if that one plug on the blue one has power all the time I guess would be the easiest way to check?

Depending on where that connector is.

[Ugod02010]

Right under the passengers feet. It's the blue wire connector that plugs from the body/ to the engine harness

[JCzNova]

Right under the passengers feet. It's the blue wire connector that plugs from the body/ to the engine harness

Yes, Pink wire on Pin G. Power Feed from PCM Ignition fuse #5.

[JCzNova]

That provides power to several things.

Pin C on the MAF....

[Ugod02010]

25689

[JCzNova]

That is the one that feeds one of the pins in my first few posts. Pin B30 on the PCM, PCM Ignition Feed.

Black PCM connector, B30, Pink wire.

[Ugod02010]

The orange wire in the other plug has power all the time I'm gonna try and connect those. Cuz I have no power at all now on the pink wire coming in

[JCzNova]

The orange is hot in run and crank?

[Ugod02010]

I have power from the orange wire that deads off in the one other plug it's from the " PCM batt" on the 96 I'll use that for the power in the pink wire.

[Ugod02010]

Yeah the orange wire is on all times

[JCzNova]

Jump those two and lets hear it start! DO IT, DO IT NOW! :laugh:

[Ugod02010]

I hope so!

[JCzNova]

I hope so!

Are you in the garage yet?!?!?! :lurk:

[Ugod02010]

Well fp kicked on soon as I connected the wire! "Fingers crossed I may have a YouTube for everyone!

[Ugod02010]

Fuel pumps kicking on now it sounds like it's trying. Gonna check spark now. Ugh

[JCzNova]

Tick Tock... lol

[Ugod02010]

It's got spark now also. And fuel up to the rails. So I'm getting there. I checked spark at the coil it was firing good. I'm gonna throw a timing light on after the opti just to see if it's sparking up there. Battery's really really low tho so I gotta wait 4 a bit

[Ugod02010]

Thanks for the help so far!! Appreciate it

[JCzNova]

It's got spark now also. And fuel up to the rails. So I'm getting there. I checked spark at the coil it was firing good. I'm gonna throw a timing light on after the opti just to see if it's sparking up there. Battery's really really low tho so I gotta wait 4 a bit

That's awesome man! Only takes a gang of people working together to figure out an Engineer's work!

[JCzNova]

Once it starts, and you get the battery charged. I would make sure there are no draws on the system with that wiring adjustment. Then you should be good for the Shootout.

[Ugod02010]

Timing lights flashing. Almost seems like the injectors aren't firing

[Ugod02010]

I got way more to go b4 the shoot out!!!! Hopefully at least headers and a cam

[Ugod02010]

I missed the comment bout the engineers work! I don't think true words have ever been spoken

[SMok3 Em A11]

I'm ready for a start up video!!! Sounds like you are really close!!

[Ugod02010]

It may fire once the battery charges up some more! Well sounds like it. I just threw test light on the injectors it has a gnd when off and turns off when I turn the key to run. Kinda hard to check it while cranking. Light keeps on popping out.

[Ugod02010]

25690This is encouraging!!! I'm getting connection to the PCM! I think just the battery's to low to get her to crank it drops right down to like 6-4-1 lol.

[SMok3 Em A11]

Fingers crossed!!!

[Ugod02010]

I sprayed a tad bit of ether she fired up for a second while the ether burned bu then died pretty quick. I threw the fuel pressure tester on it don't seem like the pump kicks on when it should. Like for priming. Might just be how dead the battery is tho too. I'm gonna let it charge tonite and play in the morning

[JCzNova]

I sprayed a tad bit of ether she fired up for a second while the ether burned bu then died pretty quick. I threw the fuel pressure tester on it don't seem like the pump kicks on when it should. Like for priming. Might just be how dead the battery is tho too. I'm gonna let it charge tonite and play in the morning

We will be standing by for good word tomorrow then!

[Ugod02010]

I'm still missing a power I think. It will fire right up with ether but soon as that burns out it's dead. I don't think the injectors are firing. Is there a wire that feeds the injectors from the pcm?

[JCzNova]

I'm still missing a power I think. It will fire right up with ether but soon as that burns out it's dead. I don't think the injectors are firing. Is there a wire that feeds the injectors from the pcm?

There is a wire per injector, if you want to pull up what pins they are.

[Ugod02010]

I think I'm gonna pop the rail up and crank it to see if the injectors are apraying

[Ugod02010]

OK, here we go.

'95 PCM needs the following:

-B+ from instrument panel fuse #4 10A to pins B15 & B31 (Orange wires)

-IGN power feed from instrument panel fuse #5 15A to pins B30 & D3 (Pink wires)

-Ignition Control is pin B5 output from PCM to ICM pin B (white wire)

-Underhood fuse #11 is the same on both years, provides IGN power to ICM Pin A (PNK/BLK wire)

If you want to start checking these, I will continue to comb and add...


Adding:

-Theft Deterrent Module Fuel Enable is the same on both, pin A25 (DK BLU wire)

-PCM pins that should have ground: A2, C32 (BLK/WHT); A18, D1 (TAN/WHT)

WHere do I check these? Unplug from the PCM and back probe the wires there?

[JCzNova]

WHere do I check these? Unplug from the PCM and back probe the wires there?

Yes for the first 2:
-B+ .....
-IGN power ....

Next 2:
-ICM pin B white wire (power from PCM)
-ICM Pin A pink/black (Ignition power)

Theft deterrent is good, since you are getting fuel pump power.
Think you said you checked the PCM grounds and they are good.

[Ugod02010]

I checked the PCM grounds on the one plug they were good

[Ugod02010]

I unplugged the maf and it starts!?!?

[Ugod02010]

Check the build page!! I unplugged the maf and it fired right up. I did it two times. But also it cranked 2 or 3 times unsuccessfully. So I'm gonna rewire the blue connectors pink wire. I just had those wire taps and I dot trust those. I'm gonna splice into the wires since it needs the power for sure. I didn't wanna cut into the wires b4 knowing for sure that I needed too. (Just OCD about tht stuff) so why would it start on speed density and not with the maf plugged in?

[Ugod02010]

It's weird, it don't wanna start on it's own but little blast of ether it will fire up and die, then start and stay running. Or it will just kick on and stay on. But I have no oil pressure on the dash. Could be I just missed the sensor for it. Or I'm still missing something. Haven't tried plugging the MAF back in to see if that makes a difference or not. Kinda lost?

[JCzNova]

It's weird, it don't wanna start on it's own but little blast of ether it will fire up and die, then start and stay running. Or it will just kick on and stay on. But I have no oil pressure on the dash. Could be I just missed the sensor for it. Or I'm still missing something. Haven't tried plugging the MAF back in to see if that makes a difference or not. Kinda lost?

How old is that fuel in there?!?! Ethanol content in the newer fuels force separation or something scientific like that. Big deal when putting my boat up for the winter with E10 or whatever we are up to now.

[SMok3 Em A11]

Fuel is kinda old but there wasn't much in there when I parked it.

[JCzNova]

I would throw some fresh 93 in there, couple gallons should even out any issue.

[SMok3 Em A11]

I would throw some fresh 93 in there, couple gallons should even out any issue.

I agree!!!

[Ugod02010]

I was just thinking bout putting more fuel in and seeing what happens. It seems like it needs some help getting going but once its running its good. I also plugged the MAF back in and got it started. When thats hooked up all seems well I don't have a CEL when everything is hooked up. I still have just a few more small details to do and it's time to do a few shakedown trips!! I am gonna do the title stuff Wed. get a plate and all that so hopefully I should be good to go by this coming weekend!!

[JCzNova]

More fuel?! That's an awesome idea! :D

[Ugod02010]

okay the power that says IGN power feed for B5 output from PCM to ICM PIN B is this wire a switched power wire or constant power?

[Ugod02010]

More fuel?! That's an awesome idea! :D

yeah i don't know where I come up with such good ideas!?!?!!!

[Ugod02010]

My power feed from INjector fuse 9 it's pink on the engine harness shock tower plug I only have power when the key is on. Is that right or should I have constant power? Basically the orange wire I jumped has power all times. Every other pin except AIR PUMP RELAY fuse are switched power. The reason the air isn't on it was tuned out. (I think)

[Ugod02010]

I just pulled up the fuel rails. The injectors aren't firing. I have pressure with te gauge on the fuel rail. So I guess I'm missing a power for the injectors. I ran the other side of the pink wire on the blue connector to power all times an still no change

[JCzNova]

okay the power that says IGN power feed for B5 output from PCM to ICM PIN B is this wire a switched power wire or constant power?


My power feed from INjector fuse 9 it's pink on the engine harness shock tower plug I only have power when the key is on. Is that right or should I have constant power? Basically the orange wire I jumped has power all times. Every other pin except AIR PUMP RELAY fuse are switched power. The reason the air isn't on it was tuned out. (I think)


I just pulled up the fuel rails. The injectors aren't firing. I have pressure with te gauge on the fuel rail. So I guess I'm missing a power for the injectors. I ran the other side of the pink wire on the blue connector to power all times an still no change

95 underhood fuse box has #9 & #10 for injectors. One per bank. Pink wires. COnnector C100. The connector on the passenger strut tower.
Pins A & K should have 12V switched ignition power.

96 underhood is only showing #9 on Pin A. This wire splits and powers all the injectors.

To me that means, the C100 connector was on the car, making it a 96, so that pink wire at Pin A will then need to feed BOTH Pins A & K on the '95 engine harness side.

Make sense?

[Ugod02010]

I don't have any power for the A7 pin on the red plug on the PCM. It's for FP relay control. Also don't have power to A25 fuel enable signal. I have power on all injector pins on the red plug. Just none to those too.

[JCzNova]

If you don't have power on the A7 it shouldn't have ran, or did you jump the fuel pump relay?

I don't know much about the theft deterrent module, but it may be involved.

[Ugod02010]

It really only will start if I spray ether in it it will fire then stay running. But if I just crank it it won't fire

[Ugod02010]

I don't have a wire going into K. let me give that power.
Nope K doesn't have anything on either connector. There's pink in A that's switched. Also pink in pinG that's also switched.

[JCzNova]

Will it run run after ether, or just til the ether burns out?

[Ugod02010]

It will start, die, start n stay running,
So it burns the ether and will keep running I ha it on for a good 30-45 seconds a couple times.

[Ugod02010]

It's like if it can get going it's good.
Checking the other connector on the shock tower I have B and E that e has switched power. The B pin only has like 4volts

[Ugod02010]

This says if I don't have power for the A7 in the red connector I will have long crank before it starts. Where does it get it's power from?
http://lt1swap.com/1994_f_body_wire_harness_schemat.htm

[JCzNova]

This says if I don't have power for the A7 in the red connector I will have long crank before it starts. Where does it get it's power from?
http://lt1swap.com/1994_f_body_wire_harness_schemat.htm

That is where the engineer comes in. A7 is output for the fuel relay, but I have no idea where it gets it's power from inside the PCM.

[Ugod02010]

I also found this. Good possibility that's what's happening. It don't sound like the pump kicks on when I turn the key on or while cranking. I can hear it when the engine fails to start I can hear it kick on for a sec or 2.
What could I be missing
"Fuel Pump Relay Control - The computer on GM fuel injection systems is designed to control a fuel pump relay. The computer does this by supply a 12v+ (POSITIVE) signal to the relay. The signal is only present for two seconds at key on. Fuel pump operation resumes when cranking over. The PCM ONLY commands it back on when the PCM reads that the engine is turning over. So, if there is a condition where there is a bad crank sensor, fuel pump will come on, turn off, and will not turn on when cranking."- that's from lt1swap.com

[Ugod02010]

I have to be missing something. Makes me wanna bang my head on a wall! I'm gonna try and ask over there and see if I can find an answer.

[SMok3 Em A11]

Ok this is.the point in a project/problem where i step back and make.sure important not.over thinking it. You've been head first ankles deep in this thing fir a couple weeks now. Even God had to take a break after 6 days lol. Just sit back and relax for a day and do your research then take it with knowledge and a clear head.

[Ugod02010]

That's true man. I probably am over thinking this. Hell the wiring diagrams are starting to look like hyroglyphics I been staring at em soooo long. Lol
I'm staring to think maybe it has to do with the bcm or theft not giving me power to the "fuel pump to prime connector"

[Ugod02010]

It kinda helps to when I go back and read thru things. I am wondering tho even if I jump the fuel pump it doesn't start. I think the injectors aren't spraying like they should when I turn the key on.

[Ugod02010]

Okay, so I finally have everything hooked up and buttoned. I put her in gear and it seemsjke it's just really low on trans fluid. It's on the bottom of the dipstick. I already put 1 1/2 qts. In the transmission. Think ya just cuz it's still low or is there any trans wiring or anything? Like tht trans lockup, or anything on the PCM not having power like it should? I am gonna get a new filter and cover for the trans anyways so I hate to waste more money on fluid to dump right back out, changing everything.

[Ugod02010]

Also, I haven't got the cruise control box in the car yet off of the 95. The cables where it mounted to the throttle body was different. That wouldn't cause any drivability issues tho would it?