Turbo Build Sheet-What would you recommend?

[KaGe]

This is intended to help me get a plan together so I can determine a cost and timeline. I'm not dead set on anything in particular, just looking for some LTXtech family opinions.

I'm looking for some recommendations on building a bullet proof bottom end. My goal is to build a solid setup that I can grow into. I plan to run my STS kit, until I can afford a kit from LT1boost.net or build my own (time depending). My end goal is to have around 800 rwhp. I know it will take a lot, so this build is for the long term. I currently have a motor I just got finished with a few months ago in the car and am now getting everything together for paint. So I want to build another motor over a longer period, using the best parts possible. I already have a 4 bolt main corvette block from a junkyard, I'll be sending this to the machine shop sometime this winter. So no expense spared, what would you use?

Crank- I have been researching some Callies and Lunatti cranks. Anyone have good/bad reviews about either brand? What kind do you use in your FI application?

Rods- What brands have you all had the best luck with? H beam forged. Also what length do you recommend? See head notes below.

Pistons- Forged, probably .030 or more over. What brands are known to perform well in lt1's?

Heads- I'm interested in the AFR's. 210 or 215. Could I get a more budget friendly set with equal flow from LE or somehwere else? Shooting for 9-9.5:1 compression.

Cam- I'll have the cam spec'd once other decisions are made, most likely I'll get it from whoever I go with for heads.

Solid Roller-Hyd. Roller I've been looking into this as well. I want to keep the car somewhat street friendly, so I'm thinking solid roller may not be worth it. I've heard hyd. roller now days can get you close to a solid in performance. But I've also heard solid can be a lot more reliable now days, as long as you keep an eye on the rockers and adjust them when needed. What would you use?


I am a broke college kid by night and an engineer by day, so whatever money I do make mostly goes into school. I'm planning on this build to take me at least a year to complete once started. So with that in mind, what would you do if you were building your FI setup over again?

[ZOHAN]

Sounds like you are off to a good start. No expense spared isn't always best imo. Now don't get me wrong I'm not saying something might not be a little stronger, but I aldo say it depends on your end goal. You could go callies crank and spend $1000+ or however much they cost, or get something a little cheaper that's still been proven. For instance, I have an Ohio crankshaft forged crank, it was only $540 shipped, and I've seen one handle over 1000hp. I have eagle h beam rods, and srp pistons, which I got cheap from a friend. At times I question if I should have went with a better rod. Start checking into fuel system and suspension too if you're going to want to make a lot of power. But like I said, what are your end power goals? Realistic and high end... my high end goal is 1000hp, but would be content (for the time being) with 800. Because even if you hit your goal, you'll prob wanna push the limits and try to get more out of it.

Making you silky smooth...

[tt383lt1]

afr210 comp heads, callis steath crank , manley pro i beam rods, diimound custom pistions, and 28 psi and 8k rpm. but im 8:1 compression. going to 9:1 this winter. and solid roller lifters. this is only a street car. solid lifter are not that bad. i only adjust mine when im setting them and maybe 2 more times after i barley ajust them. and there not all that loud. and i also was told by tpis that a I beam rods can hold more power than a h beam connecting rod.

[Fastbird]

Crank -- I'm using a Lunati Sledgehammer (comparable to a Callies Dragonslayer). No problems noted.

Rods -- I'm using Lunati Billet I-Beams. Call 911 is using Oliver Billet I-Beams. Light, strong, the way to go for FI in my opinion, especially at higher levels. But you're gonna pay about $1100-1200 a set.

Pistons -- Diamond, custom made for your application. Will run about $600-750, but they make a damn good piston.

Heads -- Get the best heads you can afford. The TFS stuff does well in FI applications, and the AFR 220's and 227's are the king of the hill still.

Some thoughts: If you're going to run a 383, do NOT run a 6" rod. Your compression height suffers with a longer rod and that can weaken the ring lands in the piston. Stick with a 5.7" rod. Depending on the boost you're going to run, stick in the 9.25 to 9.5:1 static compression ratio. Good call on waiting to spec out a cam. My personal thought it stick with a hydraulic roller. Better streetability, less maintenance.

[MoeHorsePower]

Keep putting your money into your schooling, Believe me, this build will get out of control very quickly at a enormous expense, Have you realized how much you will really end up spending, Do you have an idea cause it might be way more than you realize. Quality machine work, all of the engine parts can quickly add up to $6000+
Now add up your entire fuel system, not just injectors, pumps, drivers, larger fuel lines, 800 RWHP will render your drive train useless, now you will need a rear end, drive shaft, trans to be able to handle this power, then to put the power to the ground, full suspension mods, just the tires alone will cost you and wont last long. Ask people what they have TOTAL on their builds, $25,000 is not far fetched.

[Blackbird96WS6]

I have to agree with Moe, hold off on a major build like this until after graduation. You'll thank YOURSELF after you graduate and realize how much more freedom you have to get on with your life when you aren't buried under student debt. I got through college the cheapest method I could find and my BA still ran me about ~$30k or so in total start to finish. If you haven't already been taking student loans, that's awesome and keep it that way. The car will wait for you and you'll be making more once you finish to make the build go much faster as well. Just my .02 added on.

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[ginoz28]

I bought my rotating assembly and a few other parts in 06' and ran out of extra cash flow and I didn't get to start back up until last year. I wish I would have just went boltons, spray and suspension until it blew. I could have been at the track racing instead of the stands.:(

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[ZOHAN]

BTW, as moe said, total in my car ill have somewhere in the $30k range when this build is done...

Making you silky smooth...

[shownomercy]

Crank -- I'm using a compstar crank. No problems noted.

Rods -- I'm using compstar H rods, no issue with them at all, they run on the heavy side compared to a billet I rod but eh.

Pistons -- JE is betttaaa ;) I got mine custom sorta to what I wanted CC wise.

Heads -- I run max ported stock castings.

Some thoughts: I run a 6" rod, so far its been fine. We shall see long term, but it makes over 700ft/lbs of torque at 10psi, so I am happy now.

I got a cam from LE and its really nice, easy idle, and great street manners. I think the best money I spent was on the 24x style setup and the tune. HPtuners 3bar tune through a guy who knows what he is doing and no worries about finding a tuner that can do LT1 stuff or babying it around on a mail order tune etc.

If you stop yourself from snowballing things it can be done for relatively lower estimates than the norm round here. Did I want stock castings? No. But I used that few grand to get a built 80e and converter, I can always swap heads later on and so far the stockers are doing fine. Make sure you can justify everything for what the current build dictates, IE do not go crazy big on heads/turbo etc when all you want it 700hp.

Be patient with it, mine took close to two years of working during the day and schooling at night. Still on a 10 bolt, because house purchase :lol:

[KaGe]

Thanks for all the replies guys, a lot of useful info from those that have done it. I realize the cost can be substanitial, which is why I said I planned on this build to be over a long amount of time and also why I went ahead and built a budget motor that is now in the car to keep me happy while I'm working on this one.

The lighter weight of the I beams is something I didn't think about. Thanks for pointing that out guys. As far as performance/reliability, do the I beams make more sense in a boosted application versus the H? Does the same hold true for the N/A guys? Just curious and if not, why?

So for fun lets throw together a slightly more detailed list. Hopefully before I start this, I'll have every exact piece picked out:

Crank- Lunati Seldgehammer or Callies Dragonslayer Both proven performers correct?
Rods- Some billet I beams 5.7"
Pistons- Diamond or JE (I've heard a lot of good things from people about both brands, are these the "top two"?)
Heads- I really still don't know, so lets say a good set of afr's
Lifters- I currently use ls7 lifters. Are these ok for boosted apps or what do you use?
Pushrods- I use trickflow chromolys right now, same question as above.
Rockers- If I stay away from a solid setup, are my trickflow nsa 1.6's viable for boost apps?
(I'm not meaning reusing whats in my current motor for these parts, Just wondering if they'd work well)


What areas is there potential to save money? I mean is there something you all have did or bought and thought, "that was unecessary I could've went with XXX and saved money"?

On the opposite side, what things have you saved on and regretted it later?

Keep the replies coming guys, you all are really helpful. I'm trying to eliminate the "oh shit why didn't I go ahead and spend on this instead of having to down the road" stage most of us always go through when seeking more power.

[shownomercy]

The sledgehammer crank is no more, so ya.

Your old valvetrain should swap over no issue, most likely be overkill anyways.

[firebird_1995]

If you are looking for a long term build that you can save money on, keep an eye on the classified section. There has been several short/long block combos that would fit the bill for a fraction of the cost vs new parts off the shelf. There has also been individual parts for sale that would be great to collect

[shownomercy]

If you are looking for a long term build that you can save money on, keep an eye on the classified section. There has been several short/long block combos that would fit the bill for a fraction of the cost vs new parts off the shelf. There has also been individual parts for sale that would be great to collect

Just be wary, I did this route and paid for what I thought was an easy piston swap to what I need long block.. turned out it had a scoured cylinder wall and needed machine work.

[firebird_1995]

I had the same thing with my rods. One was twisted. Had to buy a new one. But even with that I still ended up being ahead. This was a transaction through craigslist though, not on this site. Theres no way to hold someone accountable via craigslist and paying with cash.

[KaGe]

I seen that lunati has discontinued the sledgehammer. Now they have the "signature series" cranks. I noticed the stroke is bigger isn't it? Or am I making it up?

BTW they have some deals going on right now on discontinued and overstocked stuff so check out the pdf if your in the market...

http://www.lunatipower.com/Media/Documents/Closeout%20List%20%28PDF%29.pdf

I've been keeping an eye out in the classified section. I seen a pretty tempting turbo build up for sale on cz28, but I too am a bit weary of buying anything internal used.

[KaGe]

Well guys I've been trying to sell my turbo kit to help pay for this build. I finally traded it today for....don't laugh...... 5 brand new 35" General Grabbers for the jeep WOOHOO those alone are worth quite a bit (the guy owned a tire shop so I assume he gets them cheap)

Aside from the tires I also traded for a Lunati CJ117 forged crank. It is used, but checked out at the machine shop as good. I believe this is the "sledgehammer" crank. Correct me if I'm wrong. It is a 3.75 stroke, minimum rod length is 5.85, which is ok I guess. I mean the way I see it, I got the crank for free with the tires, so I may use it I may not. I'll attach some pics for reference...

[KaGe]

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[gunters96lt1]

A lot of great information in here!


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