t56 mainshaft

[casey20000007]

ok so I have some bad news :( I got my new driveshaft in and go to put it in the trans and it don't fit its like its stuck or something so I take a hammer a tap it and it moves but I cant pull it back to set it In the rear I have to tap it back, so I got to thinking when I broke my rearend I twisted the splines on the slip yoke I was thinking when I did that I could have twisted the splines on the mainshaft in return is causing the vibration that I have been fighting, I got the balance checked on the ls1 shaft and the balance is perfect so now im in a dillema should I do an auto swap or get my trans rebuilt? im going to the track tomorrow and giving it hell im going slicks and all, if anyone has any input plz feel free to let me know. thanks guys

[Blackbird96WS6]

Well you know my position on it if it comes to needing tranny work, keep that T56! It's a lot cheaper that way anyway and you mentioned possibly wanting to go road racing later on, so you'll want to keep the stick for that. I say get the T56 rebuilt and give her hell!

[casey20000007]

could you talk to that guy for me pplllzzzz id like a stage three build, I don't want it to break

[casey20000007]

I need to get pricing on a cheap but good kit

[Blackbird96WS6]

See if this has everything you need for a rebuild kit: http://www.tickperformance.com/parts-only-11/

I'll try to get ahold of Tom and see if he'd be willing to do it.

[casey20000007]

yes it looks right but im gonna need bearing and some other small upgrades, might as well save up for the stage two trans

[Blackbird96WS6]

Do it once and do it right. :)

[casey20000007]

so save or do the rebuild?

[Blackbird96WS6]

Save up for the bullet proof rebuild lol. ;)

[casey20000007]

gonna cost about 1500 with the specialties $2k max

[Blackbird96WS6]

$2k well spent in my mind lol. I plan to do it to mine once I get to that point.

[noice]

The upgrades for the t56 dont help the torque capacity of it, frankly it is a waste of money. I have a rpm t56, there is nothing special other than shifter forks and slider keys. The magnum is the only upgrade.

[Blackbird96WS6]

The upgrades for the t56 dont help the torque capacity of it, frankly it is a waste of money. I have a rpm t56, there is nothing special other than shifter forks and slider keys. The magnum is the only upgrade.

Magnum upgrade? Care to inform us about what that is? :D

[casey20000007]

I just hope I don't shell the trans tomorrow at the track

[Blackbird96WS6]

There's always the option to not go before getting it fixed lol.

[casey20000007]

noice on ticks page their stage two build is sposed to hold 600 rwt

[noice]

@noice (http://ltxtech.com/forums/member.php?u=5300) on ticks page their stage two build is sposed to hold 600 rwt

Do you believe that? How is the Stage 2 whatever they call it improved?

Our Level Two Upgraded Rebuild includes the following:

Complete tear down, degrease & thorough inspection of entire transmission
Bronze 1-4 Fork Pads
OEM 5-6 & Reverse Fork Pads
Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
New OEM 1-2, 5-6 & Reverse Keys & Springs
Complete Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Ring Set
Steel 3-4 Shift Fork (where applicable)
New Front Seal
New Rear Seal
Cryogenic Treatment of All Transmission Internals
End-play set to our custom specifications
Professional Reassembly done 100% by hand


So bronze fork pads are for shifting, do nothing for torque ability.
Billet 3-4 Keys, once again for shifting, not much better than stock
Carbon Fiber Synchronizer/blocking rings, this isn't really an upgrade, helps with shifting.
Steel 3-4 Shift Fork, once again only for shifting
cryo treatment, I highly doubt they actually do this.

So I ask you again, where is this transmission stronger than stock for a torque load?

There is a Viper Mainshaft upgrade, but that isn't a big deal. The Magnum is basically a way different stronger version.

[Blackbird96WS6]

Do you believe that? How is the Stage 2 whatever they call it improved?

Our Level Two Upgraded Rebuild includes the following:

Complete tear down, degrease & thorough inspection of entire transmission
Bronze 1-4 Fork Pads
OEM 5-6 & Reverse Fork Pads
Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
New OEM 1-2, 5-6 & Reverse Keys & Springs
Complete Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Ring Set
Steel 3-4 Shift Fork (where applicable)
New Front Seal
New Rear Seal
Cryogenic Treatment of All Transmission Internals
End-play set to our custom specifications
Professional Reassembly done 100% by hand


So bronze fork pads are for shifting, do nothing for torque ability.
Billet 3-4 Keys, once again for shifting, not much better than stock
Carbon Fiber Synchronizer/blocking rings, this isn't really an upgrade, helps with shifting.
Steel 3-4 Shift Fork, once again only for shifting
cryo treatment, I highly doubt they actually do this.

So I ask you again, where is this transmission stronger than stock for a torque load?

There is a Viper Mainshaft upgrade, but that isn't a big deal. The Magnum is basically a way different stronger version.
noice where do we look for a magnum upgrade? Is this a T56 rebuild upgrade or a new transmission altogether?

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[noice]

I suggest to run the stock one. The magnum is a separate $5k transmission, for that money you could buy an actual racing manual transmission.

[casey20000007]

I am highly debating on doing a 4l80e conversion, how much work is involved


SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS

[OutCast]

There is a Viper Mainshaft upgrade, but that isn't a big deal. The Magnum is basically a way different stronger version.

Curious why you say the viper mainshaft upgrade is no big deal?

I broke a synchro ring then upgraded to the stage 2 rebuild from thegearbox. Next I twisted the splines on the spicer slip yoke of my Denny's nitrous ready shaft so I upgraded to a Mark Williams chromoly yoke. Then I broke the mainshaft. Now I have the viper 30 spline mainshaft conversion but haven't run it yet. I figure input shaft or clutch problems coming up next...which is also the reason I added a McLeod SFI bellhousing this time.


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[noice]

Curious why you say the viper mainshaft upgrade is no big deal?

I broke a synchro ring then upgraded to the stage 2 rebuild from thegearbox. Next I twisted the splines on the spicer slip yoke of my Denny's nitrous ready shaft so I upgraded to a Mark Williams chromoly yoke. Then I broke the mainshaft. Now I have the viper 30 spline mainshaft conversion but haven't run it yet. I figure input shaft or clutch problems coming up next...which is also the reason I added a McLeod SFI bellhousing this time.


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It will help some, but that piece isnt rated for much more than stock. It will break eventually.

[OutCast]

D&D rates it 200lb.ft (700) over the stocker(500) which should be plenty for me...for now, lol.

I already swore to go auto if there's another major tranny issue with this one so I just hope it stays together for a little while. I have yet to find a part that won't break "eventually", and in my case it's usually sooner than later. All my carnage started shortly after changing to a sintered iron disk, that's a grabby som-bitch and easily aids in finding the next weak link.

For the sake of pics, here's my broken shaft next to the 30 spline.

http://ltxtech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18082&d=1365637859

http://ltxtech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18081&d=1365637854

http://ltxtech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18080&d=1365637849