Best break in method for a new clutch?

[Blackbird96WS6]

Since I got my new Spec 3+ clutch installed and did a new flywheel with it, I obviously have a good deal of breaking in to do before I can go back to beating on my car when I feel like it. Once the car's moving, it's pretty solid, but right now trying to get it moving from a stop in either 1st or reverse is just sloppy and loose as all hell. Granted, I've only put maybe 10-15 city miles on it so far, but is there a trick I should know about to getting it to break in quick and properly? So far I'm just driving it around town and low RPM starts (like 1200) to get moving, then up-shifting at 2500 and down-shifting at anything under 2000. Is that pretty much the process or should I be doing something extra with it to get it all to seat faster?

[popo8]

what do u mean "sloppy amd loose as hell?"

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[MeanTA]

Sadly there is no faster way to break it in.

500 miles of city driving. Without reving and dowing dumps.

[Blackbird96WS6]

what do u mean "sloppy amd loose as hell?"

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

Like, slipping worse than the old burnt out clutch lol. It slips and bogs a lot right now, and trying to hold it halfway in to reverse, the whole car starts jumping and the seats rattle like crazy. Once it finally gets moving though, then it's all good and solid.


Sadly there is no faster way to break it in.

500 miles of city driving. Without reving and dowing dumps.

Damn, alright. :(

[popo8]

idk much abot the "3" but i had none of that with my centerforce

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[Blackbird96WS6]

Hmm. I know I read somewhere that the first 20-25 miles on the 3+ are sloppy and crappy, but after that everything starts to firm up. I'll just have to give it a couple more days to really start seeing. Part of it might just be that I changed so many parts at once that I'm not used to how it feels now at all. Before, everything was so nice and stiff that I could feel everything in my foot. Now it's all so smooth and fluid that I have to really focus on what I'm doing lol. Drove it to work today so the diff will be all warmed up from the drive home so I can knock that out today hopefully. Going from a driveline that probably had easily 30k+ miles on it without any maintenance to all new everything is night and day!

[Fastbird]

Give it some break in time, and you can't launch it harder than 1200 RPM. But DEFINITELY DO NOT get aggressive with a new spec clutch before that 500 mile mark. Specs are finicky when it comes to installation and break in.

[96LT1355Z28]

Exactly what Mean TA and Fastbird said!!!

[SexyTransAm]

500 in town miles of easy driving is what iv told everyone iv even done a clutch for.

[Blackbird96WS6]

So I let my dad take it for a spin yesterday to see what I'm talking about on the weird feel of it. I guess putting too many new things on at once can be slightly overwhelming. It's a bit hard to explain, but it grabs and holds fine, once moving there's no issue. But from stopped to moving, the engagement feels really funky over my old stock setup. Kinda like a weird sloppy-ish engagement cuz it still doesn't have that halfway feel to it yet for creeping around in bumper to bumper traffic. I have to let it out real slow and accelerate real slow for a smooth roll out, or else it wants to bog bad and lurch. Also, my dad can't shift through the gears in my car very well lol. He always gets tripped up by the CAGS and likes to also try to guide it from second to third and ends up hitting second to fifth lol. He hates my short shifter stick :rolleyes:

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[popo8]

Blah...instal the skip shift. I hated that.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[96LT1355Z28]

Keep in mind it's a new clutch with new friction material and a new flywheel surface so it's gonna grab different. You'll also notice as it heats up the longer you drive, the coefficent of friction will increase (it'll grab harder).

The brake pads on the front of my car are carbon metalic like the friction material in the 3+. When I come off the trailer and first drive through the staging lanes I have to stand on the brakes to get the car to stop. Actually Hawk and Aerospace reccomend driving around the track to heat the pads so they will work! The first couple stops in my neighborhood were an experiance when I first put the brakes on.

[Blackbird96WS6]

Blah...instal the skip shift. I hated that.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

Lol yeah, that's on my to-do list. I just rev it over 2500 in first to turn it off for now.


Keep in mind it's a new clutch with new friction material and a new flywheel surface so it's gonna grab different. You'll also notice as it heats up the longer you drive, the coefficent of friction will increase (it'll grab harder).

The brake pads on the front of my car are carbon metalic like the friction material in the 3+. When I come off the trailer and first drive through the staging lanes I have to stand on the brakes to get the car to stop. Actually Hawk and Aerospace reccomend driving around the track to heat the pads so they will work! The first couple stops in my neighborhood were an experiance when I first put the brakes on.

That makes sense. Backing up in the morning to get out of my driveway is a fun chore now. Not so bad by the time I get to work and back into my space. Ah the joys of racecar parts lol. Either I'm getting more used to it or it's a bit better today, though. Much smoother ride to work today than yesterday.

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[Featherburner]

So I let my dad take it for a spin yesterday to see what I'm talking about on the weird feel of it. I guess putting too many new things on at once can be slightly overwhelming. It's a bit hard to explain, but it grabs and holds fine, once moving there's no issue. But from stopped to moving, the engagement feels really funky over my old stock setup. Kinda like a weird sloppy-ish engagement cuz it still doesn't have that halfway feel to it yet for creeping around in bumper to bumper traffic. I have to let it out real slow and accelerate real slow for a smooth roll out, or else it wants to bog bad and lurch. Also, my dad can't shift through the gears in my car very well lol. He always gets tripped up by the CAGS and likes to also try to guide it from second to third and ends up hitting second to fifth lol. He hates my short shifter stick :rolleyes:

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2Are you talking about chatter?

[Blackbird96WS6]

It makes a little chattering noise, but not any more than the stock clutch used to make. Unless you're referring to chatter as more than just noise, in which IDK. I'm a newb at this.

[Featherburner]

Like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPIZFugC2P8

[Blackbird96WS6]

Yeah it'll kinda do that when I'm just creeping slowly forward/backward. If I let off the clutch nice and slow and really feel for it while giving it the gas, I can get it to go smoothly. But trying to do it any quicker I get that chatter.

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[Still2slow]

Yea that seems to be clutch chatter, I had an old spec 3 ceramic 6 puck that chattered like crazy even after break in. From what I've heard the 3+ is better about it. My spec 3 was an on-off switch, the new street twin has much better manners

[popo8]

Any better Peter¿

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[Blackbird96WS6]

Any better Peter¿

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

Yeah it's getting better little by little. Reverse is still annoying to do with no chatter, but I've got it figured out. I adapted to it pretty quick, but Monika wants to learn to drive a stick and I think this is going to make it kinda hard to learn on lol. Up to about 100+ city miles on it so far.

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[popo8]

Rent a cheap manual fornher to learn on bro...

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[Blackbird96WS6]

Rent a cheap manual fornher to learn on bro...

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

Didn't think of that.. That's a much better idea lol.

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[Blackbird96WS6]

Feeling better and better every day! Getting the itch to put my foot down so bad, but trying to be patient. :shiner: Definitely grabs on quick now, and 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are way firmer than ever before, I gotta practice getting those to feel smoother cuz Monika rocks back and forth in her seat when I shift it quickly lol. I'm starting to see the beauty of this clutch and glad I spent the coin to get everything done right. :D

[popo8]

great news man...

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[HellTeeOne]

Those SPEC clutches were chattering like crazy 10 years ago, particularly when new. I guess they haven't bothered to come up with a solution to the problem yet....

[Blackbird96WS6]

I've figured out that a lot of the chatter from it comes from trying to release the pedal too quick, just like any other clutch would do. When I control it and make sure the engine is spinning enough to keep everything moving, the chatter goes away. Idk how they used to be like you say, but I'm not really complaining about this one at all. Just antsy to get it fully broken in so I can get back to playing and see how much more abuse I can give it than I would on my old burnt out original one.

[96LT1355Z28]

Those SPEC clutches were chattering like crazy 10 years ago, particularly when new. I guess they haven't bothered to come up with a solution to the problem yet....

There's no problem to need a solution. The "chatter" is the nature of the friction material as it mates with the PP and FW surface, quality material needs heat cycles and time to break in if you want it to last. I don't get people who complain about chatter, get frustrated, and start ripping on the car. Then go online to claim the clutch was junk because it began slipping after a few months. When actually their clutch was glazed and never had a chance from the start.

HellTeeOne, I'm in no way saying you would or have done this, just posting what I've seen and giving an explanation.

Blackbird96WS6, I know it's tough but keep at it your doin just fine and it'll keep getting better!

[fullforce]

Im sure it must be a good idea for some reason to not beat on your clutch right after you install it, but I have yet to figure it out. It just like brake pads, just use it the way your gonna use it, I put my new clutch in on a Thursday and went to the track Friday night, never had a problem! But just do what ever the manufacture recommends.

[popo8]

I know 96LT1355Z28 has explained it before as to why u should not just beat on a new clutch. I remember "glazing" and reduced LONGEVITY but maybe he can reiterate.

[fullforce]

I guess it could glaze if it is not holding but I guess I don't have enough power to even slip a non broke in clutch lol. Honestly though I was power shifting with less than 20 miles on mine. Not saying I recommend it. But it's not the first clutch I have done like that and I've never experienced a problem.

[Blackbird96WS6]

Yeah glazing is the worry. I doubt I make enough power either to glaze a spec 3+, but I'm still paranoid about breaking brand new expensive parts lol. So I baby my car during the recommended break in period. :)

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[JoeliusZ28]

Kinda like a weird sloppy-ish engagement cuz it still doesn't have that halfway feel to it yet for creeping around in bumper to bumper traffic. I have to let it out real slow and accelerate real slow for a smooth roll out, or else it wants to bog bad and lurch.
Thats how a performance clutch is supposed to work. They are designed for quick on/off engagement for faster shifts. I think the 3+ is a full disc which isnt so bad, but with my Stage 3 six puck my clutch was happiest when I just let it out. Rev it up to 1500 or so, let off the gas and just release the pedal in a fluent motion. I was disappointed with my Spec clutch for while until i realized the problem was me. They just drive differently. Once i learned it, it was a great clutch.

Also breaking in you can really give it as much RPM and throttle as you want. Its the SLIPPING during high RPM/throttle that MUST be avoided since it can easily glaze the material. I went heavy throttle/high RPM several times with mine during break in but my launches were very easy and my shifts were carefully rev-matched. Clutch pedal should be fully released and clutch meshed up before getting back into the throttle. That clutch lasted me 30k miles which was more than the expected lifespan, and it was barking 4th gear right up until its last days.

Once i hit the 1000 mile mark, i dropped the rev-matching and went right to no-lift powershifts. And it actually drove smoother after that! ;)

[Blackbird96WS6]

Thats how a performance clutch is supposed to work. They are designed for quick on/off engagement for faster shifts. I think the 3+ is a full disc which isnt so bad, but with my Stage 3 six puck my clutch was happiest when I just let it out. Rev it up to 1500 or so, let off the gas and just release the pedal in a fluent motion. I was disappointed with my Spec clutch for while until i realized the problem was me. They just drive differently. Once i learned it, it was a great clutch.

Also breaking in you can really give it as much RPM and throttle as you want. Its the SLIPPING during high RPM/throttle that MUST be avoided since it can easily glaze the material. I went heavy throttle/high RPM several times with mine during break in but my launches were very easy and my shifts were carefully rev-matched. Clutch pedal should be fully released and clutch meshed up before getting back into the throttle. That clutch lasted me 30k miles which was more than the expected lifespan, and it was barking 4th gear right up until its last days.

Once i hit the 1000 mile mark, i dropped the rev-matching and went right to no-lift powershifts. And it actually drove smoother after that! ;)

Yeah, I've definitely got it figured out now, and like you said, the problem was mostly me and trying to engage it like an OEM clutch. Being a full-face disc, it's still not an on/off type clutch, but I do have to drive it differently than I did before. No complaints with it now, I'm quite happy with it and love how grabby it is. I'm getting close to the end of my break-in period (just daily driving it to work and back, so taking a while to hit 500 miles lol), but I keep it at or under 3k RPMs and half-throttle for now cuz like I said, I'm a pansy when it comes to abusing brand new parts :lol: But it's definitely a LOT smoother now than a couple weeks ago and I'm very happy with how it feels. Upshifts are super tight and anyone in the car can feel when the clutch grabs for the next gear, and downshifts are just as firm, although I've figured out how to get them about as smooth as I can so the car isn't jolting around. I definitely recommend the Spec 3+ as a great street clutch, it's not too different from stock feel and only takes a few days to really get used to, but it definitely will hold more power.

[96LT1355Z28]

On an organic (stock friction material) clutch there's no break in period it's ready to go when installed. Other friction materials have specific heat cycles required to seat and maintain their coefficient of friction.

Blackbird96WS6, glad you like it!

[fullforce]

Kinda off the subject but has anyone ran those 6 puck style clutches? I put one in a f150 today at it was absolutely horrible, jerking and bucking the whole driveline trying to slip it on take off, I had to pull it and swap in a oem style disc. Just wondeing

[Blackbird96WS6]

That's normal for a puck style clutch, they're either on or off lol.

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[fullforce]

I wonder if it would be any smoother if it was a solid disk without the springs. It seemed like the disk would catch an then the springs would just make it shake untill it got moving

[Blackbird96WS6]

I wonder if it would be any smoother if it was a solid disk without the springs. It seemed like the disk would catch an then the springs would just make it shake untill it got moving

A full face disk is going to have similar-to-stock engagement characteristics, as 96LT1355Z28 explained to me, as compared to a puck-style clutch, which is on/off style more suitable for a racecar, really. You wouldn't want a solid clutch disk without the springs though, the springs simply act as a dampener for when everything mates up. Without the springs, you'd have lots of jolting and it'd be a fairly violent ride lol.

[JoeliusZ28]

Kinda off the subject but has anyone ran those 6 puck style clutches? I put one in a f150 today at it was absolutely horrible, jerking and bucking the whole driveline trying to slip it on take off, I had to pull it and swap in a oem style disc. Just wondeing

A 6 puck clutch isnt supposed to be slipped. When I had my 6 puck clutch it was smooth as butter if i progressively released the pedal. If i tried to hold it at a semi-engaged point it would chatter my teeth out.

[fullforce]

Makes sense, it probably wouldn't so bad in my car but the truck was a 4.9 inline 6 long bed ford with a first gear a mile long. It really needed a lower set of gears I think it had 2.73 in it, or atleaat that's what the tag said.

[Blackbird96WS6]

Hmm, so since yesterday, my clutch has developed a weird random grinding noise that only occurs (randomly, not every time) when I have the clutch disengaged (pedal to the floor). When it's in gear and moving, no noise, no issues, but here and there, it'll randomly make the grinding noise when I'm stopped and putting it into reverse or first. :( Any ideas on this? I get it to go away by letting go of the clutch pedal and let it re-engage while in neutral, then pedal in again to get to a gear, but sometimes I have to do that a couple times to get the grinding noise to go away. It's been perfectly quiet and no problems up until yesterday when it did it once or twice, then today it decided to just be a noisy bitch when I pulled into the driveway. I drove it after that and all was well, but it's got me worried something's being harmed. :( Ideas please?

[fullforce]

The noise your hearing when you push the pedal to the floor is the clutch fork hitting the pressure plate, mine has done this ever since I put the new clutch in and i have just tought myself to hold the pedal about 1" or so off the floor so it doesn't do it. I'm not sure what the cause of this but your not the only one with this problem. The grinding at a stop trying to get it into gear sounds like the clutch is not full disengaging.

[Blackbird96WS6]

I need to get a video of this noise or something, cuz it's starting to do it more often and sometimes in between gears while moving now. Wondering if there's not an issue with the slave cylinder or something not pushing the clutch fork far enough to fully disengage.

[blkchevyz]

The noise your hearing when you push the pedal to the floor is the clutch fork hitting the pressure plate, mine has done this ever since I put the new clutch in and i have just tought myself to hold the pedal about 1" or so off the floor so it doesn't do it. I'm not sure what the cause of this but your not the only one with this problem. The grinding at a stop trying to get it into gear sounds like the clutch is not full disengaging.

mine did that as well, i ended up just pulling the arm off, and grind a little notch in it.

[Blackbird96WS6]

You mean the clutch fork? Where did you grind a notch at? Just doesn't make sense that it never did this before and then a month or so after putting my new clutch in, it starts happening. Makes me think I just need to drain the master/slave cylinders and bleed them with new fluid possibly. Any chance that'd be it?

[blkchevyz]

it is odd that it just started doing it. mine did it right after a clutch swap. i remove the dust shield and i could look in and see where it was rubbing.

[Blackbird96WS6]

Well that's easy enough to do to check, guess I'll have to get up under it and see if anything's rubbing. Might also pull the slave off again and reseat it to make sure it's centered in the cup on the clutch fork tail.

[fullforce]

just wondering if you ever had time to see if yours was rubbing?

[Blackbird96WS6]

Not yet, busy with preparations to move to our new place in 2 weeks, so my weekend was pretty packed. If I don't get to it this coming weekend, then it'll probably be end of the month or so before I can check it.

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