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Clayton
01-14-2013, 06:29 PM
I'm looking for a place to rebuild my t56. I have a t56 that works, just missing second. Where should I take it, or would it be worth trying to do it my self? Thanks!

chile
01-14-2013, 06:37 PM
Where are you located. I know tick shift and d and d. But you would have to ship it.

GreenZ96
01-14-2013, 06:48 PM
Tick Performance, they recently moved shop to Mt Airey

/end of thread

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Clayton
01-14-2013, 09:45 PM
Located in Greensboro. What price range are we talking? I just won't a stage 2, and I'd rather just drive the whole car out there and have them remove it and all, if possible.

chile
01-14-2013, 09:50 PM
On the t56 it depends. R&R the trans is 5 hours. You have to find a shop you can trust.

Clayton
01-14-2013, 10:01 PM
A lot of people are saying tick, and mt airy is only like an hour and a half from me as well

Madman337
01-14-2013, 10:03 PM
I would just fix it, they are fairly straight forward and the t56 manual is easy enough to find. Look here (http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#t56) and it is about half way down the page.

chile
01-14-2013, 10:07 PM
send them an email.

GreenZ96
01-14-2013, 10:07 PM
I dropped my car off with Jonathan @ tick on a Wednesday and picked it up that Saturday. They did my trans/clutch and some other odds and ends while they had it. I'm also biased cause they sponsor our club

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chile
01-14-2013, 10:08 PM
I would just fix it, they are fairly straight forward and the t56 manual is easy enough to find. Look here (http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#t56) and it is about half way down the page.

You have to tear it apart just to find whats wrong and you do need some special tools.

NuckinFutz93
01-14-2013, 10:08 PM
Another vote for Tick. I got a Tick stage 2 in my 94 and beat the crap out of it.

Clayton
01-14-2013, 10:10 PM
Anyone have a price range for me? (Stage 2) I reallllyyy don't want to take it apart and try it myself. I'm not that tech savvy.

chile
01-14-2013, 10:14 PM
go check their website.

NuckinFutz93
01-14-2013, 10:16 PM
about 1200 for the rebuild, plus the remove and replace.

Clayton
01-14-2013, 10:20 PM
That's not to bad honestly.getting on their site now.

noice
01-14-2013, 11:36 PM
Use the manual the madman linked.

Look for metal chunks on the magnets.

3-3-5 Rounded Synchronizer assembly.

3-8-9 Synchronizer Blocking Rings 1-6th .020" gap, Reverse .030" gap These are probably trashed.

Section 5 - Don't replace the bearings, they are almost never messed up. If you replace the bearings it will change the endplay and that is hard to do. Also use the right sealant for the case, there is no o-ring or gasket so you have to use the right sealant or you'll change the endplay and mess things up.

14551
You can see where the synchronizer assembly and part on the gear rounded itself on my 5th gear.
14552
New 5th gear
14553
In the upper right is the new synchronizers, when you measure the blocking rings it tells you if the synchronizers are worn.

If you are having trouble getting into a gear you most likely have messed up a synchronizer assembly and possibly the gear. Don't believe the BS out there, many of the "performance transmissions" are barely upgraded at all. Upgraded synchronizers, bronze shifter fork pads, and steel shifter forks aren't for high torque use, they are for people that miss shifts.

From thegearbox.org

Basic Rebuild $260 - All the synchronizers, keys, lock rings, shifter pads, oil seals, shifter bushing.
Synchronizer Assembly $100 - If they are trashed
Gears $150+ - If trashed.
RTV Sealant $7
Snap Ring Kit $20 - Recommended to be replaced

Edit: DAMN wrong link, thanks guys.

chile
01-14-2013, 11:40 PM
what noice said but dont go to gearbox.com its gearbox.org. the .com is a "special" site.

Clayton
01-14-2013, 11:56 PM
Maybe I can find someone local to help me rebuild it. Like a 1 on 1 with someone walking me through it. We will see!

Clayton
01-15-2013, 12:06 AM
Use the manual the madman linked.

Look for metal chunks on the magnets.

3-3-5 Rounded Synchronizer assembly.

3-8-9 Synchronizer Blocking Rings 1-6th .020" gap, Reverse .030" gap These are probably trashed.

Section 5 - Don't replace the bearings, they are almost never messed up. If you replace the bearings it will change the endplay and that is hard to do. Also use the right sealant for the case, there is no o-ring or gasket so you have to use the right sealant or you'll change the endplay and mess things up.

14551
You can see where the synchronizer assembly and part on the gear rounded itself on my 5th gear.
14552
New 5th gear
14553
In the upper right is the new synchronizers, when you measure the blocking rings it tells you if the synchronizers are worn.

If you are having trouble getting into a gear you most likely have messed up a synchronizer assembly and possibly the gear. Don't believe the BS out there, many of the "performance transmissions" are barely upgraded at all. Upgraded synchronizers, bronze shifter fork pads, and steel shifter forks aren't for high torque use, they are for people that miss shifts.

From thegearbox.org

Basic Rebuild $260 - All the synchronizers, keys, lock rings, shifter pads, oil seals, shifter bushing.
Synchronizer Assembly $100 - If they are trashed
Gears $150+ - If trashed.
RTV Sealant $7
Snap Ring Kit $20 - Recommended to be replaced

Edit: DAMN wrong link, thanks guys.

And would you recommend a stage 2 rebuild kit? & approx. how long would it take to build and finish it?

popo8
01-15-2013, 01:11 AM
.... the .com is a "special" site.

LOL!

noice
01-15-2013, 08:01 AM
And would you recommend a stage 2 rebuild kit? & approx. how long would it take to build and finish it?

I'll just say this. I fell for the upgraded T-56 transmission from RPM and when I tore it apart there was nothing special in it.

There is the viper mainshaft, and some different overdrive ratios, but it is probably not necessary.

Also remember many of these transmissions came in vettes so companies love to sell "upgraded" stock shit to vette owners because they are suckers.

chile
01-15-2013, 09:35 AM
That is true what noice said. What you really have to upgrade to make more reliable is the steel 3-4 fork. Billet steel keys for the snycros and all the brass forks.

Clayton
01-15-2013, 04:55 PM
So just a simple stage 1 will be fine..?

chile
01-15-2013, 06:40 PM
Everybody's "stages" are different. Ill tell you what's in mine. All snycros are carbon. Billet keys for all the snycros. Brass pads for all the forks. Brass shift cup. New snap ring kit. No walk tailshaft bushing.