View Full Version : Need LTX guidance
mosier
06-03-2011, 10:17 PM
O7131 So here is my dyno. Best run was 376rwhp at roughly 6100-6200rpms. I asked where the torque was, and the shop showed me another page that had 366lb-ft rear wheel at 3900 rpms. I am waiting for them to e-mail me that, as this was a screen shot taken from my phone while the car was on the dyno. After all the time that went into my 383, I was a little disappointed. Since I am new here, is this the appropriate place to discuss my engine combo and where I could go from here? If not, please point in the right direction so I can give the engine specs and get some feedback. Thank you:)
mosier
06-04-2011, 01:31 PM
Nobody? I will provide engine specs and so on for healthy discussion, I just did not want to create a long winded post in the wrong spot. I know there are some Gen 2 gurus on here that can help:)
mosier
06-04-2011, 01:40 PM
And just so nobody thinks I am waisting your time, here is the car on the Dyno. Tuned by TJ at Baker Engineering in Nunica, Michigan.
95formula383lt1
06-04-2011, 06:34 PM
it would be good to go ahead an post your specs detailed if you could. Really cant tell you much without them, forum has been slow lately just give it time.
popo8
06-04-2011, 06:55 PM
it would be good to go ahead an post your specs detailed if you could. Really cant tell you much without them, forum has been slow lately just give it time.
Weekends are usually slow... Like Paul said, write up the specs/build.... including trans and rear..... and give it a little time....
Work days when people are bored in the Office is usually the best time for responses....
mosier
06-05-2011, 11:40 AM
Roger that. What we have here is Mahle pistons at 4.030, inverted dome -16cc dish built for 3.75 inch stroke on 6.0 inch rods. 3.75inch stroke Callies Compstar "Dragon Slayer" crank at 350 main, 2.100(? no idea what this is, but it was on the description of the crank when I bought it. Bearing size maybe??), Callies Compstar Rods-6 inch, 2.100 (theres that number again) with 927 pin. Comp Cams 5/16" pushrods set at 7.200" length. Comp Cams custom camshaft 224/230 at .573" intake and .568" exhaust on a 113+1 LSA. Golen Engine Service CNC'd LT1 heads with 54CC combustion chambers. Non S/A Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Mag 1.6 full roller rockers. Race Tronix 32lb matched injectors with the Full Racetronix fuel pump kit upgrade, includeing the grounding wire and such. Callies Billet 4 bolt main caps, 10* splayed. Keyed crank flange hub. ATI Super Dampner. EFI Connection billet timing cover to run the true Comp Cams dual-roller timing chain, billet gears, with the Miezere Electric Water Pump in a ported housing. 160 degree thermostat. MSD Blaster Coil GM dual connector. MSD Digitail 6 ingnition box. Megnacore wires. NGK V-Power Racing plugs. Kooks full stainless steel racing headers with 3 inch collecters. No cats. Stainless steel LS1 style 2 into one y-pipe into Hooker Areo Chamber dual out exhaust. Canton 6 quart road race pan with Am-Zoil dual remote bypass filters-9 quart oil capacity total. Tubelar K-member, Tubelar upper and lower A-arms, tunnel brace, tublar lower control arms, tublar pan-hard rod. Stage 2 T56 from D+D transmissions. Spec Stage 2+ clutch on factory new steel flywheel. Moser 9 inch housing with drain, fill plug and lower control arm relocation barcket options. Running 3.90 motive gears with a Detriot Tru-Trac. So...................Whats the problem here?? I was hopeing 415 at the tire. Tuner said a better set of heads with increase the dyno paek to push me there, but it would come at the top of the powerband. Engine builder says a 230/232 duration cam only might get me to the 430rwhp range, but milage and dirveablilty would suffer. I currently get a best of 26mpg at a steady 70mph from full tank to "E". other wise it is 14-16 in town and 21-23 on the highway. On paper compression is at 11:1 I think. After seeing what Mr. Shepards car can do on Nitrious, I was thinking of a 75 shot,(I am in NO WAY infering a 75 shot will get me to 8's, I was just mearly stating that Mr. Shepards car made me really consider Nitirous, as it is there when you want it, off when you don't.) but the engine builder says I start using nitrous with how these pistons have their ring-lands, I will be re-ringing the car every 20K. What do you guys think? Am I asking to much from the Gen 2 for 415+rwhp with only N/A 383 cu. inches? Thanks again for the help:)
mosier
06-05-2011, 11:44 AM
Well I posted a reply with all the particulars. But in doing so the system logged me off evidently, as when I went to post it asked me to log in again. I did so, and got a message that Admin or a moderator must reveiw the post before it gets put up. Not sure why. There was no profanity or anything like that in it. So, I guess if it shows up great, if not. I will repost all the engine/car specs in a day or so.
97firehawk
06-05-2011, 01:47 PM
sure seems low but with out specs . by the way car looks sweet myn is the same color.
Mr.Right
06-05-2011, 03:07 PM
I either missed your specs, or they are not posted.
MY old combo was a 383, 11.3:1 compression, xfi 292 cam (specs are 242/248 584/579)
LT4 intake and heads (both ported by me)
1.6 RR, longtubes, 58mm TB, K&N intake, over the axel 3 inch true duals.
and i made 403/400 rwhp/rwtq at 6300 rpms.
Im just posting this to give you a ballpark figure
mosier
06-05-2011, 06:20 PM
The system let me post my specs:) See the about two posts above. Sorry it is long winded, just wanted to give you guys all the stuff in my LT1 so I get good thoughts and info. Mr.Right made 27rwhp, and 34rwlb-ft more than my combo, with a bigger cam, better heads and a little more compression. Maybe my set-up is reasonable then?
95formula383lt1
06-08-2011, 12:34 AM
16cc dished pistons and compression is still 11:1?? what did i miss? my 383 has 0 decked blocked similar heads and 16cc dish pistons ( decent boost pistons forged srp) and compression is 10:2.
mosier
06-08-2011, 04:30 PM
16cc dished pistons and compression is still 11:1?? what did i miss? my 383 has 0 decked blocked similar heads and 16cc dish pistons ( decent boost pistons forged srp) and compression is 10:2.
You brought up an excellent point. I will bring this up to the builder, as thats what I was told the static compression would be, appox.
95formula383lt1
06-08-2011, 04:42 PM
theres many calculators you can use online, as long as you know deck height, piston cc, crank stroke and rod length as well as head gasket thickness and chamber cc. with the 16cc dish i would expect that to be more of a boost motor and the low duration and 113lsa complements the boost idea.
mosier
06-08-2011, 04:59 PM
theres many calculators you can use online, as long as you know deck height, piston cc, crank stroke and rod length as well as head gasket thickness and chamber cc. with the 16cc dish i would expect that to be more of a boost motor and the low duration and 113lsa complements the boost idea.
The parts list was made to run up to a 125 shot of Nitrious reliably. I told the person I deal with at Thunder Racing I wanted to run Nitrious without blowing the engine, and this is what he sent me. But after talking to my engine builder, I have been to afriad to acutally put the Nitirous on there, as I don't have the funds to keep tearing the engine down to replace rings every other year. I drive the be-jeezes outta this car. I have owned 16 cars, and this BY FAR is my favorite:) I have put more than 1000 miles in 6 days on this car more than twice. I just love to take road trips and drive my LT1. I always wanted a car with Nitirous, but the engine builder keeps telling me, "Yeah, it's great S$#@, but you need need a better designed piston with thicker ring lands, beefed pins and a looser ring package to run it often without affecting the long term durablity you are after." Which, I must say, was that I wanted an engine that would last 100K-125K miles before rebuilds. He says this one will last that long, but not while using the bottle. What do you think?
95formula383lt1
06-09-2011, 12:46 AM
you are aware stock motors can handle 125-175 shots all day with a good tune an be perfectly fine right? the internals you mentioned in your engine are good for 200+ shot. I don't understand it he could have went with a lot more compression safely with at least a 5cc-7cc valve relief flat top piston and still have been safe for a big shot. I'm currently running a fresh stock bottom end with only arp rod bolts, 383 is still sitting on the same stand it has been since 2008 im lazy. I put over crazy miles on this car as its my daily driver i drive it everywhere, there's still a bottle in it an its always connected and not afraid to spray
TSAEB
06-10-2011, 02:21 AM
just my two cents.....i think you could use a better cam....golen heads flow really good from what i read so if you dont care about emissions would be a good thing ;)....contact loyd elliott(sp) ask him to make you a nice cam.... pretty sure hes gonna tell you if you drive the car alot to lower the lsa ...and wouldnt doubt if you could benefit from more duration and a tad bit more lift.....and i second the compression....give us the exact gasket you used...exactly ....so we can see what your true compression is...and -16 is pretty deep...i went with a flat top with -5 cc...cam and higher compression(im assuming you have low compression cus of the cc chamber and deep dish heads) should get you closer to the 400 hp.....and when all said and done i would not hesitate to spray min 175 shot.
mosier
06-10-2011, 11:40 AM
Great feedback I am getting here! The whole reason I joined this forum was to get some advice from people that have been around these cars a lot longer than I have. Thank you all for the input:) I am going to, as reconmeded here, scour my build, and get the exact info needed for Compression. I will start taking a look at the LT1 plate system for NX, and I am going to discuss with a few folks some different cam profiles.
Pro-jection Eng
06-26-2011, 06:39 PM
Sorry just saw this thread! Do you have head flow data for this combo? I'd like to see more compression but it's not a huge killer. What valve springs are on it and who set them up? Looks like a valvetrain control issue at power peak, you should carry power much better than that. Just looking at the combo there's a solid 20 hp in a new cam that would still be very driveable. The specs as-is are somewhere between off and way off! I'd like to see at a minimum a 230 intake lobe and another 8-10 degrees of exhaust duration on that motor. I can't guarantee 27mpg, but I can definitely guarantee a VERY noticeably gain in power EVERYWHERE over what you have.
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