Official build: Asuna

[razor02097]

This is an ongoing project

1994 Camaro Z28
LT1 T56

Here is a comprehensive guide to the mods current, under way and planned.

Current mods

Delete

* !CAGS
* !AIR
* !EGR
* !EVAP
* !Oil cooler
* !spare and jack
* !sun visors


Cheap/Free mod

* TB bypass
* AIT relocation


OEM upgrade

* LS1 front brakes
* LT4 knock module


Aftermarket

* TF elbow
* B&M ripper shifter
* SLP line lock
* Moroso CAI
* Magnaflow cat back exhaust
* Drive shaft loop
* UMI upper panhard bar relocation
* Battery relocation
* UMI Strut tower brace
* Shift light


Custom

* Coolant return jug

__________________________________________________ _____

Future

OEM upgrade


* LS1 aluminum drive shaft


Custom

__________________________________________________ ______

Wish list

OEM upgrade


[/COLOR]Aftermarket

* LE2 heads and LE 230/234 cam
* gears...?
* tube K member and control arms
* LCA relocation brackets
* tube LCA
* Adjustable panhard bar
* sub frame connectors
* upgraded sway bars


Custom
* Center console switch/gauge panel
* Sun visor delete plates




Color guide
Complete
ordered
have to install
not ordered


Best (stock) ET: 13.95 @ 99.97 MPH : 2.0 60'
Best (with long tubes and 3" true duals) ET : 13.6 @ 104 MPH : 2.2 60'
Best (currently) ET : 13.99 @ 102 MPH : 2.28 60'

[razor02097]

This was posted in my introduction thread but I though it appropriate to stick it in this thread also.

Here she is back in 2006

http://www.firedragonhideout.net/Camaro/Z28/Clean/Front1.jpg
http://www.firedragonhideout.net/Camaro/Z28/Clean/FrontRight.jpg
http://www.firedragonhideout.net/Camaro/Z28/Clean/RearRight.jpg
http://www.firedragonhideout.net/Camaro/Z28/Clean/RearLeft2.jpg
http://www.firedragonhideout.net/Camaro/Z28/Clean/LeftSide.jpg
http://www.firedragonhideout.net/Camaro/Z28/Clean/FrontLeft.jpg
http://www.firedragonhideout.net/Camaro/Z28/Clean/Front2.jpg

Here is the old exhaust.

http://px2.vidiac.com/thumbs/f30f1c92-45e4-49a8-bab1-983001694042.jpg (http://videos.camaroz28.com/video/f30f1c92-45e4-49a8-bab1-983001694042.htm)Click here to see Video (http://videos.camaroz28.com/video/f30f1c92-45e4-49a8-bab1-983001694042.htm)

I will get some more pictures when she is back together and a video of the new exhaust.

[razor02097]

07-31-2010

Started the header install.....

While doing so, I came up with this gem...

______________________________________
Everything difficult comes down to the 3 F's....pick two

Finesse
Finagle
**** it, I give up.
______________________________________


I have a plan of attack. Yesterday was elevating the car, removing the catback, and removing the A.I.R system.

Today I wanted to remove the Y pipe, manifolds and clean the gasket mating surfaces. However I detoured when I got the driver's side manifold off. I decided to attempt the driver's side header install.

Learning experiences come only if you have 3 things...

Time
Money
Patience

Needless to say I am sore, cut up and have a good understanding on what is needed to install a damn driver's side long tube header.

First I was blessed with manifold bolts that weren't welded into the head. At this point I knew the installation was going to go to hell in a hand basket really quick. For anyone reading this Here is what you need to take off in order to get an Edelbrock long tube header in.


manifold
Steering shaft
plugs and wires
wire retainers and all clips holding the wires on
oil filter and filter housing (which means drain the coolant.
drop the steering column and retract inside vehicle. (trust me on this)
Valve cover
Fan temp switch
Brake master cylinder (just disconnect and pull to side)
Brake booster hose


I believe that is pretty much it. Get all that done and the header slips in with a little nudging. Passenger side will be fun...


OMG WHAT HAVE I GOTTEN MYSELF INTO http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/freakout.gif

[razor02097]

08-01-2010
They say the way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time...

However only taking 2 manifold bolts off today makes me feel like this elephant will rot before I get it finished. http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif


I will be setting aside some blocks of time this coming week to complete tasks. I hope all this is worth it.
4456

[razor02097]

Passenger's side manifold is off. 2 of 4 bolts where finger tight... makes me wonder if the manifolds where off before. Well I know where my exhaust leak was now. http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif Also I think the sensor is permanent to the manifold too. I guess I will be getting a new one.

4457

I replaced the fan switch that ended up breaking when I got the manifold off.

Installed the driver's side spark plugs and realized it will be pretty much impossible to change the #5 spark plug once the header is cinched down http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif

4458

Installed the new taylor wires on 1 and 3. I will be getting some shielding for the wires as they are pretty much going to lay right by the header. I will be reusing the OEM wire cap shield too. That should help a little.

4459

Removed the rest of the AIR system including the bracket and valves. The right side looks nice now.

Installed my new coil and put some new thermal paste on the ignition plate. I ended up installing the studs first to space the coil out from the block. Hopefully this will help move heat away from the coil. Looks pretty nice now that it is all cleaned up.

here is the old coil... it is definitely OEM as the rivets where still in tact.

4460

4461
Well no more. The assembly was disassembled and rebuilt bigger, better, faster.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4855407518_9857c97190.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4854786597_0b8924a469.jpg

Here it is installed in it's new home.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4855411310_0de326eea0.jpg


Here is the parts stack that I still have... most is big things like exhaust pipes but still http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/4847365863_a8fa33e2db.jpg


I still have to get parts... it seems like the list keeps growing too. http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif


O2 sensor (passenger side)
heater hose to bypass oil cooler
new oil filter
another quart of oil to replace the loss from filter
coolant lost from removing the oil cooler.
vacuum hose to relocate evap solenoid
new wire loom to replace the damaged loom
probably some other things too.

[razor02097]

Today



not a good day to work outside so I ended up picking up some parts

O2 sensor, oil filter and wire looming.

Also rebuilt the throttle body. Deleted the coolant fittings and the breather fitting also. I'll just run a filter and PCV instead. I will be relocating the evap solenoid also.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4859105800_e3936f5ab1_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4859107456_92b72a01d7_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4858486737_ffccf27bd6_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4858488025_e177d41d07_b.jpg

Everything was cleaned and polished by hand.

[razor02097]

Progress from last night...

Picked up the other O2 sensor, spark plugs, the oil cooler bypass hose and relocation hose for evap solenoid.


Completed oil cooler delete and got the truck oil filter on K&N oil filter# HP-3002. It is the exact same as the HP-2002 but longer length which makes it easier to get on and off. The new filter almost takes a whole quart to fill!
here is the photo showing clearances. Sorry it is blurry, it was dark and all I had was a small flashlight.

You can see the bolts have large studs sticking out. They need to go...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4863054308_513a333aa9_b.jpg

Cut them off with a cut-off wheel

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4861472565_04d80fe199_b.jpg

Bolt it back up
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4862095312_402fa2c941_b.jpg

put filter back on.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4861475881_f329c5682a_b.jpg


Putting the bypass hose on is pretty straight forward... however it turns out the radiator connection is slightly smaller and the OEM clamp isn't strong enough so replace it with a worm screw clamp.


For the evap solenoid relocation all I had to do was unbolt it, free up the wire from the harness, and extend the lines. All you need is about 4' of 1/4" fuel line. I used a sheet metal screw to mount the bracket to the fire wall. I used the factory line to connect the new fuel line back to the solenoid.

Here it is mounted to the fire wall

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4861484107_3f4c124c33_b.jpg

It is a small thing that makes a big difference in appearance.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4862103390_cc8271250d_b.jpg


It seems I didn't get a bunch done but it sure took forever to do :laugh:
More work will be done tonight.

[Fastbird]

Good work man. I really dig the evap solenoid relocate. Keep it up!

[razor02097]

Thanks!

As with many projects I planned on headers and exhaust and am ending up adding a bunch of tasks....take this out, relocating that and replacing a bunch of things that break. Ah the joys of owning an older car. :laugh:

[razor02097]

Today the garage rocked pretty hard...


Installed the passenger side header. This involved removal of...



starter
spark plugs
oil dipstick tube


and relocation of...



O2 sensor wire
knock module wire
starter solenoid wire
ABS wire

To be quite honest the passenger side header went on MUCH easier then the driver's side :hmm:

All 8 spark plugs are installed along with the new wire set. I spent a lot of time routing things away from the header tubes to avoid burning something up. I still have to do something about the passenger side ABS wire. I have 1 heat shield cover left so I should be okay.


new wires on the opti
4481


4482

Passenger side header installed
4484

Passenger side wire routing
4485

Driver's side header
4486

Still have to do the following...


finish routing the relocated wires
install heat shield on passenger side ABS harness
install header gaskets and cinch down headers
reinstall power steering pump
reinstall starter
reinstall alternator
reinstall belt
reinstall intake
Cap off EGR
reinstall steering shaft
install collectors to mark locations for O2 sensors.
get O2 sensor bungs welded on collectors
install collectors permanently
flash PCM for the !EGR and !AIR mods
pipe the true duel exhaust


I think that is it... I'm sure there is something I forgot to list. I am hoping to complete 1-9 tomorrow to at least be able to fire up the engine. Once I get to 14 I will be able to take it for a cruise. #15 is going to take a whole day me thinks :hmm:

[razor02097]

Well today freaking sucked.... I didn't get much done because I had to remove the stupid driver's side header again due to one of the bolt holes being out of round... couldn't get the stupid bolt in :dots:

I did get the following done...



finish routing the relocated wires
installed passenger side header gasket
reinstall power steering pump
reinstall starter
reinstall alternator
reinstall belt



I ended up getting all but one bolt in the driver's header I just ran out of light. I don't think I will be able to work on her tomorrow... :cry:
I am going to go start a profanity jar...

[razor02097]

Got the driver's side header on, cross thread one of the G****** mother ******* piece of **** bolts :cry: I'll fix it later...

Installed the heat barrier on the passenger side ABS, topped off the oil and fired her up..... well she started... I somehow crossed 2 and 8 wire :hmm: I shut down and fixed the wires. Holy crap open headers are pure Ecstasy ;) especially after it took a week to install!

I have ordered a bunch more **** hopefully to finish the install and a few treats for all my troubles. :whistle:



O2 extensions 2X 24"
O2 bungs I will be welding into the collectors 2X steel
CAI moroso

bolt on drive shaft loop lakewood suspension
heat proof mat to protect the fuel lines
EGR block off plates

[F.G.]

Its funny how when we start doing something to the engine, we end up doing more. In my case it went like this..."Don't worry honey i'm just gonna change out the opti" Two days later I'm ordering dress up items for the engine bay cause I got tired of looking at it all bland looking. And now I'm thinking, headers, rebuilt transmission with a stall, a shift kit, and an external cooler...it never ends...

[razor02097]

Its funny how when we start doing something to the engine, we end up doing more. In my case it went like this..."Don't worry honey i'm just gonna change out the opti" Two days later I'm ordering dress up items for the engine bay cause I got tired of looking at it all bland looking. And now I'm thinking, headers, rebuilt transmission with a stall, a shift kit, and an external cooler...it never ends...


yes. I was going to do a header install and decided it would be a good time to replace spark plugs... which lead to replacing the wires.... which lead to replacing the coil... When I took the AIR pump off I decided it would be better to delete it... so I did that... Was going to leave EGR on but decided the header would be harder to install with the stupid growth they call an EGR adapter on the primary... so Deleted EGR. :)

[F.G.]

yup thats the way it goes

[razor02097]

today I changed out the gearbox fluid, filled the coolant, and started to change the differential fluid.

i took the cover off and started to clean it. really I am stuck until i get the new parts in. hopefully it will be in the next few days. i guess i will the on rust cleaning duty on my jeep until then :laugh:

[razor02097]

Progress has been slow. I figure it is best to update daily if possible.

Yesterday I did receive parts but the O2 bungs (mainly the parts I needed) weren't shipped and I got some check valve by mistake... Summit said they will ship out the bungs I should receive them tomorrow. I still can't get my camera working for some reason the camera won't see the memory card and I don't have the USB cable for the camera anymore. :frustrated:

I did install the CAI, drive shaft loop, EGR block off plate and finished the fluid change in the rear end. I will borrow a camera tonight to take pics since I won't have much if anything to do due to lack of parts :cry:

[razor02097]

I got my camera working! Yesterday I received the O2 bungs from summit. Got them welded to the reducers, bolted them on the car and went for a test run. It is obvious these headers weren't meant for a street car but not really enough that can't be fixed...

Here is the ground clearance

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/f32b8624.jpg


One issue is the #8 primary is contacting the HVAC box :hammer:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/801abd36.jpg


I bought header wrap to fix this but not before I decided it would be a good idea to attempt to make a heat sheild and keep it in place with heat barrier mat... the mat was too close to the primary... now I have to clean tar off my header :no:


Here is some pics of the rear and the AIT relocation into the CAI tube.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/d5dd87f5.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/6a6e721c.jpg


Here is an engine shot of it together.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/7ce2d7bf.jpg

[F.G.]

:metal:nice!!!! Did you notice any improvement in performance?

[razor02097]

:metal:nice!!!! Did you notice any improvement in performance?

right now she is un corked... I didn't want to attract 5-0... the throttle response has improved. Once I get the header pipe wrapped and the exhaust on I can put the hurting on her

[F.G.]

awesome man, cant wait to hear the results

[razor02097]

Haven't updated in a while. I addressed the issue of the #8 primary.

The experiment included 2 layers of header wrap between the primary and the box. The experiment was successful. The header stopped cooking the HVAC box :metal:

The permanent solution was crafted last night which included a 2"X6" piece of sheet aluminum, bolt, nut and a piece of 4" header wrap. The device basically holds the piece of wrap so it doesn't move. It is clamped on the primary to dissipate heat as much as it would block it and prevent it from melting the box further. I guess we will see how well it holds up.


In the test I got a little more brave and goosed it 0-45 about 50% throttle. Um yeah got there pretty quick, The only thing I notice is the torque has moved from off idle to about 2k RPM. This may be due to the open header though.


Got a thumbs up from 2 of the neighbors mowing their yards :jest:

[Z28 boy]

nice progress. keep it up! What are you doing for the rest of the exhaust?

[razor02097]

I'm going with true duels. 2 vortex mufflers behind axle and rear exiting stainless exhaust tips.

[razor02097]

Here is a short video of the open headers... it was taken on a phone so the quality isn't great but you can get an idea.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8drm5uMAQA&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[F.G.]

your car sounds beastly:metal:

[razor02097]

Thanks

I took 2 more videos, sorry they are from the cell phone again... the microphone can't keep up :face_shocked:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_5khX-tFI4


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjogOQB7Pg0


I'm on call this week but I will try to get some progress done. I really want to drive on the street without having to worry about a noise citation :cry:

[razor02097]

Here is the progress pics of my exhaust thus far...

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/86e0712f.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/048bbcdc.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/4714692c.jpg

The last pic they are zip tied together so I can get an idea for mounts and how the will line up in the transmission tunnel. I have since then added said mounts and finished part 1 of the over axle pipes. I ordered a panhard bar relocation kit so I can fit the two 3" pipes over the axle. I had to clearance the spare tire well so I can fit the full size muffler between it and the T top well. I plan on having a tire repair kit instead of a spare anyway.

Saturday should be nice out I'm going to try to get the exhaust finished this weekend.

[F.G.]

looking great

[razor02097]

Thanks


The exhaust is completed!
Truly custom one off true dual 3" exhaust. God I'm so glad its finally finished!

Here are the completed pics. All welding and fitting was done by me. Start to finish asuna never rolled into a shop.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0136.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0137.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0140.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0138.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0142-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/20100905201049.png

I'm going to upload a test drive video also. I'm posting all this from my phone so if this post isn't perfect please forgive me.

[F.G.]

Cool, what mufflers are those?

[razor02097]

Cherrybomb Vortex

They give a mild cruise tone and growl when accelerating

[razor02097]

here is the promised video. I don't have any kind of rig so I just started a video on my phone and laid it down on the seat. You get to ride as my phone :laugh:

[/URL]
[URL]http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/?action=view&current=VIDEO0012.mp4 (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/?action=view&current=VIDEO0012.mp4)


enjoy

[razor02097]

Went to test and tune at the local track...


Pass1

R/T___.155
60'___2.282
330___6.045
1/8___9.107
MPH__81.14
1000__11.698
1/4___13.881
MPH__103.80
____________________
Pass 2

R/T___.005
60'___2.380
330___6.171
1/8___9.219
MPH__81.48
1000__11.799
1/4___13.973
MPH__104.21
____________________
Pass 3

R/T___.036
60'___2.329
330___6.132
1/8___9.198
MPH__80.93
1000__11.795
1/4___13.985
MPH__103.30

I think it is safe to say I have completely exceeded the limits of my street tires :cry:
However I also can say that modded Asuna kicks stock Asuna'a ass :)
The times can only get better, I am still running stock PE and spark timing tables! All the tuning I have done was for part throttle driving and idle.

I did make threads begging for guidance here (http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?13401-so-I-went-to-the-T-amp-T-day-at-the-local-track-today...-finally.), LS1LT1 (http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41653) and CZ28 (http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773898)... hopefully I can get her to go mid 13's without blowing the OEM rear axle up :doh:

[Wooshie]

Hopefully I can get her to go mid 13's without blowing the OEM rear axle up :doh:



Good luck with that my first one went boom when the car was stock. The second 10 bolt went boom 6 months later with just headers and gears. I now sport a moser 12 bolt with 4:30 gears. The M6 cars are really hard on the 10 bolts.

[F.G.]

Good to hear you're making progress. If you dont wanna go with drag radials (in fear that your 10 bolt will break) you should go with kumho ecsta xs tires, they hook well on my car on the street, but I dont know how they'll do at the track.

[razor02097]

I think I will get some good street tires. The DR would be nice but I can't afford the $200 each right now. I really have to get new tires though. These are wearing kind of thin and there is a bubble in the front tire side wall :cry:

[razor02097]

So progress has slowed so I dug up some stuff I haven't shared yet... Here is the seat repair I did. My dad actually bought the car for a while but sold it back to me. During his ownership the driver's seat was damaged. I know it is just a car but it broke my heart. Here is how I fixed it. Total cost $50



So I will start off by saying my car suffered from the dreaded driver's seat shredded bolster syndrome... to the point it had a hole and the foam was also damaged.

Here is what it looked like...

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0129.jpg



I decided to weigh my options. I first took it to a upholstery shop to see what they would estimate repairs would cost. They told me that they could not get that fabric that they could make new bolsters with similar... that wouldn't work unless I wanted to also do the passenger side... I was quoted $350. no thank you...

Online searching revealed seat covers to replace the OEM ones but the kits where like $400.... I checked the local salvage yard to see if they had any camaros with decent upholstery. He told me he had 2 TA and 2 Camaros. 1 TA had cloth seats and would sell me the set for $250... well it's better but I don't want to put TA seats in my Camaro.

I decided to take my chances with the Camaros which both where already put out to pasture. Great... The first had a driver's seat but it had mushrooms growing out of it. :no: The other one had both front seats but they where red and charcoal. I needed gray and charcoal... well not being picky and it was in good shape I ended up getting the passenger seat and several interior odds and ends for $50.


Here is the seat I got. It's dirty as hell but it cleaned up okay.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0130.jpg

THE PLAN:
Use JY seat to repair my driver's seat. Using the foam and bolster pad.


Both covers came off and the seat foam was switched.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0142.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMAG0141.jpg

Covers where cleaned and assessed.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/050.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/052.jpg

All it took for disassembley of the bolster pad was to cut one stitch and tug... cutting the stitches as they pull out.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/054.jpg

I actually learned to sew... with a sewing machine... I ended up practicing on the JY cover for a while to get settings right. My Grandmother was kind enough to give me tips also

Here is the final product. I am very happy with it! :metal:


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/055.jpg

Needless to say it is almost 23:30 so I won't get the cover on tonight but rest assured I will get pics of it installed on the seat!

NEXT DAY.....

I got the seat cover back on today.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/a468048e.jpg

The jy seat is going to have a seat cover and turned into a gaming chair. That would be pretty sweet to have a reclining game chair

I'm going to wait for the headliner to come back before I put them in the car though. Would give me more room to install it.

[Firebirdjoe]

Gettin stuff done. Im jealous :devil:

[Phstratton]

Looks good!

[razor02097]

Thank you


Next up for actual mods will be battery relocation. I was going to put it in the spare tire well... I was thinking of an aluminum box but will have to see how much room I have in there. I had to clearance the bottom to put the muffler where it sits now... I also need to think of how i will do a battery cut off in case tech really decides to pop the hood when I go to the track... thinking about putting something on the right side tail light or something sticking out from under the bumper.

Also once the battery is relocated I will get rid of the OEM coolant tank and put one where the battery was. Hopefully it will....

#1 help eliminate bubbles by raising the fluid level to the radiator
#2 eliminate the dipstick in favor of a visual fluid level.
#3 less weight.....maybe....

[razor02097]

I've been diving pretty heavily into the PCM... I have been tweaking this and that. Noticed though I was getting erratic idle and the alternator would sometimes not be charging the battery... <12V

Found out the the problems came from the wire harness on bank 2 rubbing raw on the alternator brace that goes to the intake.... I already deleted the exhaust manifold brace... this one is going too. I read many people have no problems deleting the braces. I don't understand why you need 5 mounting points on an alternator anyway :shiner:

Repaired the wires and routed the harness up on the fuel rail to keep it cool and out of the way.

5032

Also did a full wash and polish...
5033

5034

painted the front license plate holder too. I'm in Ohio they require a front license plate and I have one of the few OEM Camaro dashes that isn't destroyed.... so I will keep it up front.

Removed... look a pretty red bow tie hiding under the license plate holder :secret:

5036

back on... looks new :)

5037

[F.G.]

car looks good man

[razor02097]

okay so I have been doing more work then updating this thread.... I have quite a bit I have been up to.

One thing is an oil leak that has been driving me up the wall... The leak has been getting progressively worse. I'm talking clean all the oil last night, drive the next day and the whole under side is soaked... It wasn't the valve covers. I believe it to be the intake. Well I decided to go ahead and tackle it myself for 2 reasons...

#1 gain experience

#2 new tools!!


Intake off

5112

TB off

5113

Disconnecting wire harness...

5114

Wire harnesses and cable disconnected along with the fuel rail.

5116

manifold off and shop towels stuffed in to keep crap out.

5117

next post will be the problems I found...

[razor02097]

For the problems.... I found several. First thing was the manifold bolts where progressively more loose going to the rear of the engine :doh:

Next is a potential manifold leak....

5118

Next is where I believe the oil was leaking from.

both front and rear look to have a place where oil could leak out.

5119

5120

the sealant was gray... I don't know if that is okay to use or not. I will be using black when I re assemble.

Next post will catch this thread up to where I am now.

[razor02097]

I cleaned 16 years of crud from the manifold. I decided to paint the intake aluminum silver.

For the new tools I mentioned.... first was a parts washer... oh yeah baby I can't believe I lived without it before!

Next is a clicking torque wrench. The one I have now is a dial type. It won't be very good when trying to read the rear manifold bolts. Almost impossible in fact. This way I can tighten until it clicks and all is well.


That said the intake is cleaned and painted. The hardware has been stripped of corrosion and rust. The EGR has been completely deleted now with the block off plates SEALED to the back of the intake (another place the manifold was leaking :doh:

intake painted
5121

EGR plates installed
5122


PCV installed and intake is completed, ready to be installed!
5123

More to come.

[razor02097]

Intake installed

5131

Everything buttoned up

5132

I'm hoping to enjoy a oil leak free motor... we will see what tomorrow brings.

[Phstratton]

lol leak free is overrated :P

[razor02097]

When you go through a quart of oil a month due to a leak you would be replacing **** too :laugh:

[razor02097]

Kind of random but.....



Playing around with the PCM I came up with an excel file to help calculate WOT AFR in tunercats... If anyone is interested in playing around with it...

Link (http://www.firedragonhideout.net/Camaro/PCM/AFR_WOT_calculations.xls)

[F.G.]

good looking intake, and i really hope it stays leak free. Mine is leaking on the front (I think its the front seal, and maybe the timing cover) as well as the rear main seal. Once I go on break from school I will fix the front leak, and the rear can wait till I install a new tranny.

[razor02097]

For those interested... Here is the procedure for the intake manifold...

To get the intake off you'll need a flat head screwdriver, something to scrape off old RTV, 9/16, 5/16, 10mm sockets and ratchet.
materials are either the Felpro kit (includes TB gasket, injector O rings, intake gaskets and black RTV) or intake gaskets and black RTV.

Put simple...

Disconnect MAF connector and use screwdriver to remove intake
Disconnect throttle cables and TB sensor connectors then use the 10mm socket to remove throttle body
Use 9/16th socket to remove the injector wire harness ground cable from coil.
Disconnect all injector harness connections (injectors, MAP, both water temp connectors, AIT, coil, ignition module, EGR, EVAP, and oil pressure sensor)
use 5/16th socket to remove the 4 injector rail bolts and use hands to pull the rails from the intake.
use 10mm socket to remove the throttle cable plate and evap solenoid form intake manifold
use 9/16th to remove the steam pipe bracket, EGR solenoid, and wire harness bracket.
Then use the 9/16th socket to remove the 6 intake manifold bolts.

Remove intake

Clean everything.... twice

Put bead of RTV from 3/4" up the head all the way across the block back up 3/4" on the other head on front and rear
place intake manifold gaskets on
replace intake, be sure to put it straight down (use studs to help guide it so it doesn't slide around)
replace all manifold bolts, first pass use 71 in/lbs of torque then do a few passes with 35 ft/lbs of torque.
Here is the sequence you need to tighten them down...
5133

Replace fuel rails and wire harness. Connect all connections and replace TB cable plate and TB. Replace intake and leave the car sit for at least several hours... overnight better or a day best to let the RTV set up.

[razor02097]

Okay I cobbled together a setup to try to record my car in it's glory... I came up with a karaoke microphone hooked up to a tin amp then to my laptop... :D

It turned out pretty well me thinks :whistle:

>> Clicky << (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/?action=view&current=Cherrybombvortex-1.mp4)

[F.G.]

Sounds very good man:D

[Phstratton]

sounds good!

[razor02097]

Thanks


Went to the track today. Managed to cut a 2.2 60' time...

R/T... .113
60' ... 2.203
330 ... 5.900
1/8 ... 8.923
mph ... 82.09
1000 ... 11.498
1/4 ... 13.669
mph ... 104.33


This will be it for the year. I hit mid 13's with my current setup. :claps:
next spring I will be getting new tires along with some suspension upgrades. My 60' times should improve.

[Fastbird]

That's pretty good for the 2.20 short time. cut that down to a 1.90 and you're DEEP into the 13's. Nice job man!

[F.G.]

good job man

[razor02097]

I was really trying to get a 2.0 60' time... I just couldn't. I couldn't leave the line at more than 2000RPM or I would roast the tires. Tires have trouble gripping....Heck I can't take off from a normal stop light without some spin :laugh: I can't wait to see what new tires will do.

I just ordered a battery relocation kit and LT4 knock module. I was getting knock on every shift and I have back off timing more and more. I'm going to replace the knock sensor when I flush the coolant and replace the module to see if it helps. If it does I will be able to bump the timing again. I figure I have to get it eventually for when I upgrade the heads with roller rockers.

both came to about $200.


I'm going to wait till next spring for new tires so I will have the freshest of new tires ready for abuse. :jest: Well okay that isn't the reason... the real reasons are #1 I'm hoping to catch a spring tire sale firestone runs every year and #2 is the car tires are harder to find in fall due to the upcoming winter, people snarf them up.

[razor02097]

Ok reporting back. The oil leak is completely gone! Not a drop... Reason enough to keep tearing into her right? :monkey:


I'm going to pick up some steel plate to start mounting the battery box in the rear. I'm planning to retain the T top holders.... Plus according to NHRA rules the battery box has to be bolted to the frame... well I am going to bolt it to the rail that separates the spare tire area and the T top well. I'll take some pics when I start on it.


Attached is a photo of the LT1 and LT4 knock modules... the LT1 KM is on the left.

[razor02097]

Okay.... update. I have tomorrow and friday off cause I reached my vacation cap... I will use the time to install the battery relocation, Power inverter, shift light, bump stops, and do some tuning.

Started on the battery box. I got it mounted up and the vent run so far... It's pretty sweet. I will be able to retain the T top holders and the trunk cover. I still have some space for other things below the box.

Here is the plate. It is 16 gauge attached from the frame rail to the outer body and spare tire mount. the silver covering is some heat barrier/sound deadening.
5229

installed...
5228

Vent line run through OEM spare tire drain...
5227

Spare tire cover trimmed and fitted. The idea is to retain the trunk cover...
5226

With the cover on and hatch closed... none the wiser...
5225

I plan on the 400 Watt power inverter being where the emergency jack used to be. The inverter is mostly for the laptop's charger.

[Fastbird]

Nice work man!

[razor02097]

Thanks

I was told bolting the box to the plate is fine as long as the plate is also bolted to the car's frame.... i was worried about it but it will be okay. I need to figure out a way to mount the battery cut off switch to stay compliant with the local track's rules. I was thinking of replacing the hatch lock with something...

[F.G.]

Nice:claps:

[razor02097]

Man I feel like I spent all day and didn't get s*** done... It was more BS... from taking off the berger panel and finding half the god **** interior insulation in a large mass... to finding yet another oil leak :cry:

The thing I did accomplish is getting the battery cut off switch mounted where I want it. It should work a treat when all said and done.

5236

Keep in mind I will have to replace that brace I cut out... I plan on using some 16 gauge plate and bolting it into place. I actually don't need it but it will help keep the trunk latch aligned.


Here is the actuation lever though...

battery ON
5237

battery OFF
5238


I will be able to unscrew the rod and remove it. I want to make some sort of plug to go in the vacant hole. Oh BTW if your vehicle is black.... like mine and you get a flaming river switch.... they include a black letter decal that says "push off".... really helps me huh? I will see if an artistic friend can help me out by inscribing the knob instead.


The only other thing is I ran the + cable to the starter.... I went to the parts store to pick up some looming so the cable wouldn't rub the trans.... ended up getting wire, connectors, battery terminals, some cleaner, and paper towels.... FORGOT THE DANG LOOMING! :monkey:

[F.G.]

weres the oil leak coming from?

[razor02097]

dunno... oil is on the bottom of the oil pan... It is just a slight drip (as in 2 days = 1 drip) though not like the gusher it was before.

[razor02097]

Battery relocation is completed. Wired, tested and ready.

Battery...
5243

Cables to cut off switch
5244

Run inside and exiting into the trans tunnel. Yes I actually reused the piece I cut out of the panel as a shield. Works well.
5245

Finished the cut off switch lever
5246

and the plug for when the lever is removed and I'm street driving. It is rubber so it is water proof too.
5247

Also got the shift light and new bump stops installed but didn't take pics of that...

[razor02097]

Completed the coolant recovery tank replacement. Some advantages are it weighs less, it sits higher in the system and I don't have to use a "dip stick" to check my coolant level...

5248

5249


Here are the pics of the shift light...

5250

5251

Still need to install the drive shaft... I'm just glad to have that battery relocated :doh:

[razor02097]

Not a whole lot done this week being on call and all.... Mostly did some tuning and some little crap.

I went ahead and disconnected the EVAP. I'm sick of hearing the clicking solenoid... Plus it got rid of a bunch of tube clutter. I disconnected the hard line from the rubber line and pushed on a filter then unplugged the solenoid.
Also replaced the clear line on the coolant tank for real rubber. Ran the over flow down to exit under the car.
O Reilly's had Mobile 1 gallons of oil on sale for $20 each. I snarfed up 3 for my Jeep and 2 for the Camaro. I plan on changing out the oil before winter hibernation.

I was also just informed that my strut tower brace has been shipped :clap:

[razor02097]

I guess it has been a while since I've updated this build.... well more like a year... I just wanted to let you all know first off that Asuna as is alive and well.

I have done a few things and am changing a few things. 1 of the big things that I've changed is removing the long tube headers and replacing them with the stock manifolds and y pipe. I've done this for 2 reasons. reason number 1 is to get the ground clearance back. reason number 2 is either due to the design of the long tube headers or the placement of the oxygen sensors they would burn out in about 6 months! I'm thinking that the long tube headers that I have are just too big for the engine as it is right now... Although they sound awesome, I don't want to replace o2 sensors every 6 months...

other things that I've done is finish up the battery relocation install and run new wires from the power distribution block to the alt and from the alt to the starter. every move the factory heat shields from the manifolds and painted them. since I broke every stud getting the manifold off, i've drilled out the studs and replace them with stainless steel hardware. as she sits right now there is no cat back exhaust... however instead of the factory exhaust back on I am going to install a magnaflow cat back.

I will get pictures soon.

[razor02097]

The exhaust should be here tomorrow!

Changed out the spark plugs yesterday. Hooked up the laptop and flashed a modified tune for the manifolds. I'm running 128 BLM on the right bank and 129 on the left.

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[razor02097]

Exhaust arrived! Sucks that it's raining right now...


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[F.G.]

Thats a nice looking exhaust

[razor02097]

Thanks I got it at a good price and free shipping to boot!

Hoping to install today or tomorrow since the rain finally stopped.


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[razor02097]

Exhaust is on!



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[razor02097]

Went to the track to test out a few things. Best run was 13.99 @ 102MPH 2.28 60' The rear tires have about 1/8" tread left... Tires will be the next thing.

[razor02097]

Okay... Tires... well I did get new tires...and wheels!

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111103_082227-1.jpg

Wheels are from a 1997 Corvette

Front 245/45 R17
Rear 275/40 R18

I got the wheels with Hankook Ventus V12 evo tires. One rear had a damaged side wall (I did check run out to make sure the wheel wasn't bent) the other had a puncture... The fronts had about 5k miles on them and still in like new shape. $375 for all 4 wheels, tires and 1.5" rear spacers. 2 new rear tires was $448 mounted and balanced. So for $823 I have real GM corvette wheels with brand new rear tires and almost new front tires! I am ecstatic because it was going to be around $650 - $700 for new tires on the stock salad shooters...

What do you think? Ja? Nein?

[razor02097]

I guess either everyone is either pissed off at me or nobody likes the wheels...

Lately I have been doing some tuning and trying to track down a clock spring for the column... I managed to kill it when I installed the manifolds...

[Fastbird]

Not a fan of the wagon wheels but if YOU like them that's all that matters.

Postin' on the go......

[razor02097]

Glad your honest lol

I wasn't sure how the wheels would look on my car but I like them much better than the salad shooters! I have been looking for some Z06 wheels forever but they are difficult to come by at a decent price. You can find them online but shipping 4 wheels is pretty expensive... Since it was a local guy and both front tires where in great shape I believe I came out ahead.

[Fastbird]

How much did you get them for? They don't look bad, but they're far from "clean" looking IMO.

Your car is coming along quite nicely man, quite nicely indeed.

[razor02097]

$375 got me the rear spacers and all 4 wheels with tires. The front tires were about 90% and I could have run them as they where but one rear tire had a large plug near the side wall and the other was worn unevenly. I felt the rear tires were in need of replacement. I bought new rear tires to complete the set. I made sure to have them check run out so I know they aren't bent.

[F.G.]

Those wheels gave your car a nicer stance than it had with the salad shooters. Looks a bit more modern.

[razor02097]

I agree F.G. I do like the wheels better than the stock wheels. I think it was a good idea to go with them and I don't regret it.

Not much of an update but I did take the spacers off the back. There is clearance all the way around the tire so I guess I got lucky. Reason is the spacers brought the tire out to where it would contact the fender on a hard bump... If it was my Jeep I would break out the angle grinder but I want to avoid doing that on Asuna...

[F.G.]

yea I wouldnt cut that car up either. clean LTX cars are harder to come by nowadays.

[razor02097]

Well last night I changed the spark plugs, tightened the manifold and y pipe bolts, adjusted the valves with help from shoebox's website, and flashed the stock fuel and spark tables.

So far she runs great I will have to clean the MAF and data log before I can figure out what to do next.

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[razor02097]

Tonight I wanted to clean the MAF elements. I took it a step further by cleaning and painting the ports and screws.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111115_173356.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111115_173407.jpg

Here is the element array

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111115_175501.jpg

The to element looks clean but after cleaning the lower elements you can see it is pretty dirty...

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111115_180120.jpg

after reassembling here is the now clean MAF

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111115_181611.jpg


Next I decided for fun to give the intake elbow a hand... I used header wrap first

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111115_182204.jpg

Then put cool tape on the bottom

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111115_183239.jpg

And installed....


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/IMG_20111115_183614.jpg

I no longer have the AIT sensor on the elbow and I know that is the main reason heat soak is bad but eh.... It used materials I already had and I figured it couldn't hurt.

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[Fastbird]

Where is your IAT sensor now?

Postin' on the go......

[razor02097]

I put it on the duct above the filter on the Moroso CAI I drilled a hole inthe plastic and used the grommet that came with the elbow. I took the elbow to a welding shop and had a plug welded in where the AIT sensor used to be.


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[razor02097]

Here it is

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n21/mino9991999/camaro/6a6e721c.jpg

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[razor02097]

Okay so I ended up replacing the clock spring. I broke the ASM buzzer switch so I had to fix that. While I was in there I decided to rebuild the steering column. Man... I didn't realize there was almost no information about the 1994 steering column! Oh well...

Man I miss my headers... The stock manifolds make the engine feel lethargic. The new wheels and tires really kick ass though. A quick blast off the line no longer results in the rear losing traction. I have to figure out how to get headers and Y pipe but still keep ground clearance...

[Fastbird]

Okay so I ended up replacing the clock spring. I broke the ASM buzzer switch so I had to fix that. While I was in there I decided to rebuild the steering column. Man... I didn't realize there was almost no information about the 1994 steering column! Oh well...

Man I miss my headers... The stock manifolds make the engine feel lethargic. The new wheels and tires really kick ass though. A quick blast off the line no longer results in the rear losing traction. I have to figure out how to get headers and Y pipe but still keep ground clearance...

What headers did you have before? As far as I know, your best options for ground clearance and performance are Arizona Speed and Marine/RK Sport, SLP, or the 1 5/8 Mac headers which work very well for bolt on and light head/cam cars.

[razor02097]

I have eldebrock long tubes. I plan on headers again in the future but the edelbrocks aren't going to work. The passenger side header contacts the HVAC box and the driver's side header contacts the K frame in one place.