- Navigation
Results 1 to 10 of 12
Thread: My 1st best suspension mod?
-
02-02-2015, 12:26 PM #1
My 1st best suspension mod?
Ok. I have stock suspension and its lowered(I know being lowered doesnt really help my cause). This car will be more strip than street. When I get my new rear, it will have LCAs on it. For a drag setup what would be the best way to go 1st? Of course I do not have the money to do coilovers all the way around, but what is the smartest way to chop down that 60ft little by little? Front? Rear? Whats your preferences and why. Trying to learn all I can. I have a decent understanding of suspension but trying to get more in depth with it.
Thanks guys, yall have been very helpful so far!
-
02-02-2015, 01:18 PM #2VIP Member
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Name
- KYLE
- Vehicle
- 95 MQBM Z28
- Location
- davison michigan
- Posts
- 3,874
First 3 things I'd buy for a car that had stock suspension would be lower control arms with brackets, torque arm with a 4 or 5 Hole pivot link to adjust your instant center, and shocks
If you plan on leaving on a t brake with boost your gonna need shocks on the car. The vikings are a great shock and the best bang for the buck..
You don't need to touch the front k member , upper and lower control arms or spindles. Those are just weight reduction things if you buy them. Also ditch the front sway bar. When you get the car hooking get an anti roll bar to prevent body roll which hurts 60 times. Air bags are a joke, don't bother with them
You don't need coil overs on the rear. Just a good double adjustable shock front and rear. Coil overs on the rear are nice when you are setting ride height because a simple turn of a wrench and you can see where it's going to be.
I'm looking forward to seeing you get your car done. It should roll out on ethanol and that s480
Here's my rear coil overs. All you have to buy is the springs , threaded spring holder and the spring retainer up front.
I will dig out my receipt from mwc and tell you how much more it cost.
-
02-02-2015, 01:57 PM #3
Thanks @dawdaw. So which should I go for 1st, rear shocks or front shocks. With the car being lowered already, what would be more beneficial? Im ordering my adjustable torque arm here shortly, so LCAs and TA should be already taken care of. And I figured that leaving off the T/brake would test my suspension even more.
-
02-02-2015, 02:35 PM #4VIP Member
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Name
- KYLE
- Vehicle
- 95 MQBM Z28
- Location
- davison michigan
- Posts
- 3,874
Rears are more important but you still need fronts as well. Radial or slick?
-
02-02-2015, 03:03 PM #5
It would be radial. At least til im dialed in enough to run a slick
-
02-02-2015, 03:08 PM #6VIP Member
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Name
- KYLE
- Vehicle
- 95 MQBM Z28
- Location
- davison michigan
- Posts
- 3,874
Radial is much harder to hook up lol.... Just run a set of 275 radial pros and don't look back
-
02-02-2015, 10:19 PM #7
Rear shocks are less important on a auto car, but, I can't say much.
I personally really loved how the drag bar made my car launch.Correlation does not imply causation.
Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem
-
02-03-2015, 06:12 AM #8VIP Member
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Name
- KYLE
- Vehicle
- 95 MQBM Z28
- Location
- davison michigan
- Posts
- 3,874
On a radial car rear shocks are more important my young padawan. If your really on a budget you can get a double adjustable on the rear and just a single adjustable up front. .. you need that rear shock fairly stiff, around 80% of its max compression (if has 10 settings for example, put it on 8) setting, 50% rebound.
Front run it about 40% extention , if you had a double up front about 80% on the compression.
Run your lca in the lowest hole, If the tire is getting killed on the t brake release, then move it up one hole and work with your extension valving in conjunction.
Put the pinion @ - 1.8 to -2.2 and put the torque arm in the bottom or 2nd to bottom hole.
You are going to need to get a good shock on that car along with a few good suspension parts if you want to leave it under boost... A tfs headed 383 on ethanol and a s480 should have zero issues making north of 750 to 800 at the tire even threw a th400.
Like show no mercy said your going to need a drag bar to... It'll help 60 foot times, keep the body from rolling.
Open up that wallet baby!
-
02-03-2015, 07:38 AM #9
LMAO! Yea i know. But as long as I can get this figured out whether to go front or rear I think I can make slow progression towards better 60ft times. My only concern is that the car is lowered, and I didnt know if that would change going from front to rear. I always thought that front shocks help weight transfer to the rear which would be more beneficial as a 1st mod. Just my original thought.
-
02-05-2015, 02:32 PM #10Xtreme Member
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Name
- Jeff Stark
- Vehicle
- 1994 Firehawk
- Location
- Chi-Town
- Posts
- 2,291
I would buy the full set of 4 shocks before I bought anything else you can pick up QA1 's used pretty cheap. The car needs to transfer the weight like kyle said I would remove the front sway bar sway set the front shocks on full loose I and the rears on full stiff to start.
Jeff
2010,2011,2012, 2013, 2015 LTX Shootout Extreme Street NA Champion.
2013 Modified N/A runner up. 2015 Mod NA Champ
1994 Pontiac Firehawk #51 10.82 @ 121mph 1.37 sixty ft.
Bookmarks