The Resurrection: 94 Firebird Formula

[JOATMON]

Hey, PM wouldn't allow the photos of the Crowers. Hope this is ok.
IMG_5017.JPGIMG_5019.JPG

[JOATMON]

IMG_5016.JPG
They are basically NIB. PM me.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

cam and valvesprings ordered from @NightTrain66

[SSlowBoat]

Happy Thanksgiving to all! Cam is out!20221124_180740.jpg

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

[SSlowBoat]

i hate waiting for parts

[SSlowBoat]

cam/springs should be here tuesday. cleaned up timing cover and installed new seals. weird issue, the balancer bolt i removed is a) super long and b) threads look bugged. ok no biggie get new arp balancer bolt. well its significantly shorter and wont even start in the crank.

....wtf


Oh yeah the threads are definitely bugged, BAD like crank may have to come out bad. callies uses a deep drilled thread for the crank bolt, so you need a longer bolt than a standard or arp bolt (4" length vs 2.409" length for a regular lt1/sbc crank)

Someone ran this balancer hub down with the bolt......the threads are fucked




Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

[JOATMON]

I ran into the same issue last time I had mine apart. I flushed the hole out with WD40 and ran a bottoming tap through it to clean up the threads. I gave the harmonic balancer hole a light buffing to gain a bit of clearance in it. I then used a harmonic balancer installation tool to press it on because I knew the problem began with someone using the bolt to pull it on rather than using the proper tool. After careful inspection of the threads with a light and mirror, then measuring the total depth of the hole and doing the math with the thick washer I went to a hardware store and bought a 7/16 fine thread grade 8 bolt that was the correct needed length without bottoming out. Also, there is no need in over torqueing the bolt because the balancer is a press fit.
I have ran into this problem on quite a few engines over the years.
Pisses me off every time its happened.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

I ran into the same issue last time I had mine apart. I flushed the hole out with WD40 and ran a bottoming tap through it to clean up the threads. I gave the harmonic balancer hole a light buffing to gain a bit of clearance in it. I then used a harmonic balancer installation tool to press it on because I knew the problem began with someone using the bolt to pull it on rather than using the proper tool. After careful inspection of the threads with a light and mirror, then measuring the total depth of the hole and doing the math with the thick washer I went to a hardware store and bought a 7/16 fine thread grade 8 bolt that was the correct needed length without bottoming out. Also, there is no need in over torqueing the bolt because the balancer is a press fit.
I have ran into this problem on quite a few engines over the years.
Pisses me off every time its happened.
Nolan

i ordered a long tap, because the threads start 2" in atleast on this callies crank. i read a guy on yellowbullet drilled and tapped it for a 1/2" big block crank bolt, but i would probably end up using a timesert for it. just hoping i have clearance in the car

I have a stick of 7/16-20 grade 8 threaded rod, i am trying to find heavy nuts and am thinking of just making a stud like callies offers for a crank mandrel. @blackbirdws6 has a callies stud in his

the biggest problem is it seems like the first quarter inch of thread in the crank is stretched, then there is a chip in the threads, then good thread beyond that (atleast what the bore camera shows

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

[JOATMON]

i ordered a long tap, because the threads start 2" in atleast on this callies crank. i read a guy on yellowbullet drilled and tapped it for a 1/2" big block crank bolt, but i would probably end up using a timesert for it. just hoping i have clearance in the car

I have a stick of 7/16-20 grade 8 threaded rod, i am trying to find heavy nuts and am thinking of just making a stud like callies offers for a crank mandrel. @blackbirdws6 has a callies stud in his

the biggest problem is it seems like the first quarter inch of thread in the crank is stretched, then there is a chip in the threads, then good thread beyond that (atleast what the bore camera shows

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

That sounds like an excellent repair solution. I haven't considered grade 8 all thread rod, I guess just because grade 8 all thread is not too common. I haven't actually measured but it seems the coating on my ATI damper makes the interference fit a bit too tight, thats why I buffed the bore a little bit.

[SSlowBoat]

That sounds like an excellent repair solution. I haven't considered grade 8 all thread rod, I guess just because grade 8 all thread is not too common. I haven't actually measured but it seems the coating on my ATI damper makes the interference fit a bit too tight, thats why I buffed the bore a little bit.

well i got fuggin LUCKY and was able to tap it and clean it up enough with a regular 7/16-20 irwin standard length tap that i can now bottom the bolt/allthread out.


large sigh of relief

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk