Haggard-hawk

[Catmaigne]

Ran a course at Pocono Raceway yesterday. Was a little wet, but I managed to get some decent times. Killed the novice class on saturday, so it's only a matter of time until they kick me out of it lol.



I also picked up these a while ago because the deal was too good to resist. 315's on all fours will be the end goal, but these will serve as good backups for the C6z wheels I have now.

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Going to throw the C7 hub adapters/bearings on with V brakes (with the Ferodo HP1000/1 pads) before the next event which will either be another autox at Pocono or a track night if I can source an oil cooler in time. I will also be swapping the rear pads to some Powerstop Track Day pads to even out the brake balance as it's very front-biased at the moment. Trail braking has been sketchy because of it and I know my times are suffering, especially with grade changes and super technical courses. If I have time, I also want to throw the MWC watts link on and lower the roll center a bit to plant the rear better. I have UMI rear springs with a higher than typical 200lb rate which I'm guessing is supposed to go with their panhard lowering kit. Hopefully, the car will feel much less squirrely on corner entry with those two mods and I'll be able to push it harder without losing as much confidence.

[rentedmule]

Great run! The tires should be a huge upgrade

[Catmaigne]

Let me just say that spiral flute taps are a gift from beyond. Made tapping the spindle bolt holes in my hub adapter a breeze. I'm using L9 bolts (or grade 9) because the diameter was very slightly stepped down from M10 to 3/8" in order to clear the back of the C7 bearing.

The only thing left to do is machine the final hub bores (spindle and C7) which should happen on my friend's lathe thurs. Then I can mock a spindle up and see if/what spacers are needed with my C6z wheels. I've seen conflicting info about clearing 4 pot Brembos online.

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Slightly bored the hub out on this 14" 5G Camaro rotor to fit the C7 hub.

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[Catmaigne]

Mocked everything up and didn't end up needing any spacers with the Ace C6z wheels.

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[Catmaigne]

Been rushing to slap this thing together with the hub/brake conversions before the next event at Pocono 7/8.

Got the 2nd hub adapter and finished up the machining on it real quick. The brake line hardware came in the mail from Summit, so I pulled the car apart a few days ago. I planned on grinding the k-member camber slots while I was there (so I can ride around hellaflush). This is what both of my caster bushings looked like, so I overnighted some Mevotech supreme LCA's to shotgun on the car.

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All buttoned up and ready for an alignment. Custom stainless lines courtesy of Russell and Earl's.

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I also swapped the rear pads/rotors for some Powerstop Track Day pads and Centric blanks. Took it out to bed the brakes and GOTDAMMMMMMMM, this thing really stops. The pedal feel is 10000000x time improved. The best way I can describe it is that there's way more pedal travel between braking hard and locking up and it takes less force overall. Maybe more linear travel vs stopping power? Before it felt like the pedal would stop moving at a certain point while braking moderately, like you were pushing against concrete and there was no feedback from the pedal. If you pushed even harder, the car would brake way harder, but the transition from hard braking to skidding was extremely difficult to detect.

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Should be taking it in for an alignment tomorrow. I want 1.75-2* of camber, 0 toe, and stock or more caster. Gonna search around frrax to figure out if I should just have the caster maxed, or if there's an ideal amount.

[SSlowBoat]

Been rushing to slap this thing together with the hub/brake conversions before the next event at Pocono 7/8.

Got the 2nd hub adapter and finished up the machining on it real quick. The brake line hardware came in the mail from Summit, so I pulled the car apart a few days ago. I planned on grinding the k-member camber slots while I was there (so I can ride around hellaflush). This is what both of my caster bushings looked like, so I overnighted some Mevotech supreme LCA's to shotgun on the car.

0628212353a.jpg

All buttoned up and ready for an alignment. Custom stainless lines courtesy of Russell and Earl's.

0630211659b.jpg

0630211700a.jpg

I also swapped the rear pads/rotors for some Powerstop Track Day pads and Centric blanks. Took it out to bed the brakes and GOTDAMMMMMMMM, this thing really stops. The pedal feel is 10000000x time improved. The best way I can describe it is that there's way more pedal travel between braking hard and locking up and it takes less force overall. Maybe more linear travel vs stopping power? Before it felt like the pedal would stop moving at a certain point while braking moderately, like you were pushing against concrete and there was no feedback from the pedal. If you pushed even harder, the car would brake way harder, but the transition from hard braking to skidding was extremely difficult to detect.

0630211943b.jpg

Should be taking it in for an alignment tomorrow. I want 1.75-2* of camber, 0 toe, and stock or more caster. Gonna search around frrax to figure out if I should just have the caster maxed, or if there's an ideal amount.

i will search my google drive tomorrow, send me a message to remind me, i have fraxx setup sheet saved somewhere.

MAX CASTER. as much as you can get. I had 1.75* camber, slight positive toe, and all the caster i could get on my 96 formy (the first one) and that thing handled the best. i got the alignment settinfs from fraxx

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[Catmaigne]

i will search my google drive tomorrow, send me a message to remind me, i have fraxx setup sheet saved somewhere.

MAX CASTER. as much as you can get. I had 1.75* camber, slight positive toe, and all the caster i could get on my 96 formy (the first one) and that thing handled the best. i got the alignment settinfs from fraxx

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That's pretty much what I asked for. The alignment shop was able to give me 1.9-2* neg camber, 0 toe, but said that the max caster they could get was 3.5-4. I only ground the camber slots, should I have touched the caster ones? Could've been the way they were measuring it, idk. Driving it home in the monsoon that just happened was pretty unpleasant lol.

[joelster]

Why not see what they can max the camber to? You'll want more than 2 degrees negative. Also add a teensy bit of toe-out like 1/8th of a degree.

[SSlowBoat]

That's pretty much what I asked for. The alignment shop was able to give me 1.9-2* neg camber, 0 toe, but said that the max caster they could get was 3.5-4. I only ground the camber slots, should I have touched the caster ones? Could've been the way they were measuring it, idk. Driving it home in the monsoon that just happened was pretty unpleasant lol.

im not sure if i would, would probably get aftermarket lca's before that.
@joelster i couldn't get more than 1.75* on my old car. looks like mike got a little more than that.

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[Catmaigne]

There isn't much room left in the camber slots to get more with the grinding I did. I took the slots out to where the washers/bolt flanges were tangent to the bracket edges. My friend who did the alignment told me that one LCA was pretty much maxed and the other was closer to the middle. He tried maxing caster (after bringing the camber out), but that didn't get very far. I'm guessing the next step to correct this will be aftermarket UCAs or LCAs, but I'm gonna drive it a bit to determine if that's necessary. 2* should hopefully be enough to slow down the outside shoulder wear on my front tires as I can see they've already taken a beating. Also hoping for less understeer and screeching in turns.

Was thinking about playing with the toe at the track and then adjusting it back to 0 before I go home. Trying to save the tires because I do drive this thing on the street a lot.

Unfortunately, it looks like it might rain at Pocono again. Might end up doing an event at Ripken stadium in MD instead.